Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - First Time Installer

Hi,

I'm planning to install Mercier engineered hard maple 3 1/2" wide and 1/2" thick flooring next week. The plan is to float it over 5/8" OSB with a thin foam underpadding (suggested by the retailer) and glue the strips together. I'm also installing the strips on an angle due to the joists underneath switching 90 degrees halfway through the room using at least 1/4" expansion gaps with quarter rounds.

Against a section of tile I was going to use t-molding and keep the 1/4 gap but someone suggested using a transition piece (not sure what its called but it makes a transition in height difference from wood to tile) and nail it to the sub-floor. He swears that it looks much better but his floor isn't floating

Questions.

1. Does this transition piece also get glued to the end of the 45 degree cuts to prevent separation. Thus leaving only the 1/4" expansion gap only around the other sides?

2. Do you use shims (what type) for the expansion gaps and knock them out after?

3. I have a also have a section against the staircase that is rounded and another with casemolding for the passageway. I'll use a router to match the rounded area but will it look odd with a 1/4" gap and no quarter round at those sections?


Any other tips or comments about anything I've mentioned would be greatly appreciated....Thanks!

I think T-molding will work fine with the tile transition. Use a reducer if the difference in height of the tile and maple is severe, otherwise a T is fine.

You do not have to glue at the transition, the floor should have an expansion gap around the perimeter and that includes those areas around transition pieces.

At the staircase that is rounded, try placing relief cuts on the back side of the shoe molding every few inches. this will allow you to bend the molding to fit the shape of the stairwell and cover the expansion gap.

Others may chime in, but a floating floor does not have to be layed perpendicular to the floor joists. You can lay it as a contiguous floor. Nail downs needs to be layed perpendicular to the joists.

Thanks czizzi for your suggestions.

I like the idea of cuts on the back of the mold to create the curve and I also agree that the t-mold will work fine. With 1/2" wood flooring I might not have any height difference with the tile but the t-mold will hide the expansion gap.

I thought the weight of the wood will be supported better layed perpendicular. But then again at 1/2" thk it can't be that heavy. Can anyone else confirm this?

Someone else suggested cutting into the passageway case molding to fit the wood flooring underneath. Its an idea incase anyone else read my original post and had the same question.

Any other ideas or comments?

Thanks!