Flooring Tile - Diagonal pattern

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CandiMan
08-09-07, 07:06 PM
This past weekend I layed 12x12 tiles for the first time in my sunroom. To challenge myself I choose to do a diagonal instead of a straight pattern. Eveything went went, no problems. I am curious to know how the pros make their angle cuts once they reach the wall. I tried taking careful measurement and transfering measurements to the tile but that didn't work. For some reason I just couldn't get it. So I broke out the kids construction paper, made a template of the area I needed and transfered it to the tile. My 4.5in angle grinder with the diamond blade made quick work of the cuts.

So how do the pro measure for their angle cuts?

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/496000-496999/496700_236_full.jpg

I still need to grout which I'll do this coming weekend

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/496000-496999/496700_239_full.jpg


czizzi
08-09-07, 08:16 PM
I use a T-square or ruler to make a straight line from one corner to the next. then I take a framing square to make a 90 degree angle off the line the other ruler gave me. The result is a perfect triangle cut off to the depth of your measurement. In corners, I do the same thing but also reverse the corners of the first ruler and use the framing square to layout the 2nd measurement.

JazMan
08-09-07, 08:38 PM
Hi Man,

Normally I would measure from where the point of the to-be-cut tile should be (relative to the already installed tile), to the wall, minus an eight or 1/4". Then transfer that measurement to the tile, draw a straight line using a speed-square. The actual cut would be done with a tile cutter or with the tile saw.

BTW, what is the size of this sun room of yours? Looks to me like it's about 10' and change wide and probably over 15' long? Did you forget about expansion joints? If not how did you do them?

Jaz


CandiMan
08-10-07, 07:36 PM
I think I understand what you guys are saying, for a novice like myself it still sounds like French.

JazMan, the sunroom is about 12x14. I'm don't know what you mean by expansion joint. Is it the grout line you're refering to?

JazMan
08-10-07, 08:34 PM
For all outdoor installations and indoor installations where there is an exposure to sunlight, you are to install an expansion joint every 8-12 ft in both directions in addition to the perimeter expansion joints which are standard in all installations. Next time you're out and about look for them, especially outdoors.

There also should have been an expansion or a control joint in the slab too. If there wasn't I guess just hope for the best? I was referring to the difficulty of doing joints when tile is installed on a diagonal. You can fill a joint with caulk in a color and texture to match your grout, do this in the center of the room.

Jaz

CandiMan
08-11-07, 11:35 AM
Expansion joints, but of course. Sad to say, no the slab didn't have any expansion joints. The sunroom was an addition by the previous owners 7yrs ago and the room has always been carpeted. The slab itself was in good condition, flat and smooth. As you stated, at this point I can only hope for the best.

Are you saying I should have created my own expansion joints in the slab before installing the tiles? If so, what's the tool of choice, concrete saw? I will keep this in mind if I ever do and outside tile job.

Even though this is my sunrrom, it gets little to no direct sun light. The sunroom was added to the rear corner of the house and it's surrounded by trees from my property and the neighbors property.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/496000-496999/496700_56_full.jpg

In the months and years to come, I guess I should be looking for signs of cracking.

Thanks
Mike

JazMan
08-11-07, 09:24 PM
Well......with the conditions you describe, (and looking at the photo), your chances are better, since there doesn't seem to be a lot of direct sunlight? You'll get more when those leaves fall, but at a lower angle so may not hurt much?

Just make sure you do not grout the perimeter of the room, at the floor/wall intersection. If by chance the gap is too wide, find matching caulk. In the future you could cut a control joint in the slab and do a flexible joint directly above it. Better make the cut straight.

Jaz