Lighting, Light Fixtures, Ceiling and Exhaust Fans - Wiring in home theater
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krakerjak
08-08-07, 01:25 AM
I need to install 12 halogen pot lights in the ceiling in a home theater.
Each 50W bulbs, totalling 600 watts.
This lighting will be replacing 3 sets of track lighting fixtures with 3 50W halogen lamps each so in essence i'am only adding 3 more lights to the circuit.
I have determined that the only other loads on this circuit is a light in an adjacent room and a exhaust fan (don't remember wattage but it was fairly low) for the media room.
My question is, the original wiring involved 3 switches at the entrance to the room for each set of track lights. I want to wire all the new (12) pot lights to a single dimmer fixture, preferably remote controlled/z-wave. Would it be acceptable to use the existing wire runs and have 3 sets of 4 wired pot lights terminating at the dimmer switch and then pigtail the 3 ends together and a single "jumper" to the dimmer switch.
For the pot lights I would like to use the existing wire as the entire room is soundproofed with a layer of 5/8" drywall, 5/8" fiberboard, and 5/8" plywood so getting into the ceiling or walls is rather cumbersome. I have pulled one wire across the ceiling tied to the old wire (from front of room from original track lighting) attempting to fish it back to the switch, but I can't get further than the last 2 ceiling joists before the back wall where the wire travels down to the switch. Im guessing it is stapled down at the 90 degree bend. Also, all walls and ceilings are insulated.
I have already pulled out the insulation in the joist spaces where the pot lights will be installed, as it is only there for soundproofing purposes and I can't get IC rated fixtures in the size I want.
I also have to install 2 sconces at the rear of the room controlled by a dimmer, rope lighting set in moulding 2/3 of the way up the side walls on a dimmer, and power near the ceiling at the rear of the room for the projector. Also ensure the power outlets for the equipment rack is sufficient for all the devices, especially the receiver which can consume a lot of power. Additionally I need to install 2 sconces at the entrance of the adjacent room tied to a switch, or tapped into the 3 way switch already controlling the lights in that hallway + staircase.
I have purchased another 15A double breaker and trying to decide how to split the load for all this lighting I have to run. Any ideas?
Each 50W bulbs, totalling 600 watts.
This lighting will be replacing 3 sets of track lighting fixtures with 3 50W halogen lamps each so in essence i'am only adding 3 more lights to the circuit.
I have determined that the only other loads on this circuit is a light in an adjacent room and a exhaust fan (don't remember wattage but it was fairly low) for the media room.
My question is, the original wiring involved 3 switches at the entrance to the room for each set of track lights. I want to wire all the new (12) pot lights to a single dimmer fixture, preferably remote controlled/z-wave. Would it be acceptable to use the existing wire runs and have 3 sets of 4 wired pot lights terminating at the dimmer switch and then pigtail the 3 ends together and a single "jumper" to the dimmer switch.
For the pot lights I would like to use the existing wire as the entire room is soundproofed with a layer of 5/8" drywall, 5/8" fiberboard, and 5/8" plywood so getting into the ceiling or walls is rather cumbersome. I have pulled one wire across the ceiling tied to the old wire (from front of room from original track lighting) attempting to fish it back to the switch, but I can't get further than the last 2 ceiling joists before the back wall where the wire travels down to the switch. Im guessing it is stapled down at the 90 degree bend. Also, all walls and ceilings are insulated.
I have already pulled out the insulation in the joist spaces where the pot lights will be installed, as it is only there for soundproofing purposes and I can't get IC rated fixtures in the size I want.
I also have to install 2 sconces at the rear of the room controlled by a dimmer, rope lighting set in moulding 2/3 of the way up the side walls on a dimmer, and power near the ceiling at the rear of the room for the projector. Also ensure the power outlets for the equipment rack is sufficient for all the devices, especially the receiver which can consume a lot of power. Additionally I need to install 2 sconces at the entrance of the adjacent room tied to a switch, or tapped into the 3 way switch already controlling the lights in that hallway + staircase.
I have purchased another 15A double breaker and trying to decide how to split the load for all this lighting I have to run. Any ideas?
racraft
08-08-07, 05:28 AM
Do not exceed box fill. Too many wires entering too small a box creates too much heat.
If I were placing 600 watts on a dimmer, I would use a dimmer rated for at least 900 watts.
Use 20 amp circuits for all the electronics. Make that a single dedicated circuit for the system. If necessary, make that two dedicated circuits.
Never try to use one wire to pull another when you don't know how the wires were run. I would abandon the wire you tried to pull and the wire you pulled with unless you can visually verify each wire for damage.
If I were placing 600 watts on a dimmer, I would use a dimmer rated for at least 900 watts.
Use 20 amp circuits for all the electronics. Make that a single dedicated circuit for the system. If necessary, make that two dedicated circuits.
Never try to use one wire to pull another when you don't know how the wires were run. I would abandon the wire you tried to pull and the wire you pulled with unless you can visually verify each wire for damage.