Patching and Plastering - Tape/mud under window trim?
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Tape/mud under window trim?
leonavid
08-07-07, 08:06 AM
I've got some sheetrock joints at areas that are going to be covered by wood trim/moulding. Do I still need to tape and mud those joints?
jatco
08-07-07, 09:14 AM
Taped and mudded would give you a better finish...for the trim.
I would...and have.
I would...and have.
marksr
08-07-07, 12:40 PM
You don't have to finish the areas that will be covered with wood BUT as mentioned above, the trim will set better on a smooth level surface.
XSleeper
08-07-07, 02:27 PM
Fire codes usually require that all drywall joints be taped at a minimum, but they do not have to be finished. (no 2nd, 3rd coat required).
fixeruper
08-08-07, 10:48 AM
I too was wondering the same thing, thanks. Just framed in where old sliding door was, rotten sill, rim, sub & had to sister four joists! Back to the window...installed new const. pella. What should I use for interior jamb? From window to flush with drywall measures 3". Is there a kit available? 24" x 38" rough opening. Just applied first coat of mud, just thinking ahead...Thanks
XSleeper
08-08-07, 02:13 PM
When the exact wall thickness is known beforehand, and the window is ordered this way, Pella actually nails a narrow jamb extension onto the window with crown staples. But there's nothing special about it- unlike Andersen, Pella has no tongue and groove extension jamb. You could probably order something but you'd flip at the cost. So I'd recommend that you make your own. Since you've already got the window installed, you only have 2 options. Make your own jamb and either push the extension jamb against the window and nail the extension jamb to the sides of the rough opening, or if there is enough room between the jamb and the rough opening, pocket screw the extension jamb onto the existing window using a 6" long #2 square drive pocket screw driver bit. (you need about 3/8" of room between the extension jamb and the rough opening to do this.)
If it is easy to remove the window, the nicest thing to do would be to take the window out, pocket screw the extension jamb onto the window, then reinstall the window. But I'm guessing that's not an option. ;)
To use pocket screws, you'd obviously need a pocket hole jig and step bit (Kreg's is best) and a box of 1 1/4" coarse pocket screws (Lowe's has these).
The wood you'd want to use would preferably be Douglas fir. The Lowe's around here carry nice Doug Fir 1x6's which can be ripped to size. If that's not available, #1 pine will also work just fine. I just feel that if you are staining the wood, Douglas fir looks better than pine does for about the same price.
You mentioned that the jamb needs to be about 3", but you might want to check every corner of the window to double check those measurements. Sometimes the window will be whacked out and needs to be pushed in or out a little so that your extension jamb can have all sides of equal width. To figure out how big to make the extension jamb, you'll want to measure the interior edge of the window and plan to leave a strong 1/8" reveal (reveal = a step where 2 pieces of trim meet) where the extension jamb will meet the window. I nail the extension jamb together in the shape of a box, making sure that it will leave that 1/8" reveal once it's assembled. Then take the whole box and install it into the opening. I prefer to have the jamb be "just below" the drywall surface, rather than perfectly flush or slightly proud.
If you have to nail the extension jamb to the rough opening, (rather than using pocket screws) you'll want to shim the extension jamb in place with shims at each corner, and center it on the window to leave that 1/8" reveal. Push it tight against the window and nail it to the rough opening. If you decide to add some glue, don't get any on the wood where it will show!!! Or the wood won't accept stain.
If it is easy to remove the window, the nicest thing to do would be to take the window out, pocket screw the extension jamb onto the window, then reinstall the window. But I'm guessing that's not an option. ;)
To use pocket screws, you'd obviously need a pocket hole jig and step bit (Kreg's is best) and a box of 1 1/4" coarse pocket screws (Lowe's has these).
The wood you'd want to use would preferably be Douglas fir. The Lowe's around here carry nice Doug Fir 1x6's which can be ripped to size. If that's not available, #1 pine will also work just fine. I just feel that if you are staining the wood, Douglas fir looks better than pine does for about the same price.
You mentioned that the jamb needs to be about 3", but you might want to check every corner of the window to double check those measurements. Sometimes the window will be whacked out and needs to be pushed in or out a little so that your extension jamb can have all sides of equal width. To figure out how big to make the extension jamb, you'll want to measure the interior edge of the window and plan to leave a strong 1/8" reveal (reveal = a step where 2 pieces of trim meet) where the extension jamb will meet the window. I nail the extension jamb together in the shape of a box, making sure that it will leave that 1/8" reveal once it's assembled. Then take the whole box and install it into the opening. I prefer to have the jamb be "just below" the drywall surface, rather than perfectly flush or slightly proud.
If you have to nail the extension jamb to the rough opening, (rather than using pocket screws) you'll want to shim the extension jamb in place with shims at each corner, and center it on the window to leave that 1/8" reveal. Push it tight against the window and nail it to the rough opening. If you decide to add some glue, don't get any on the wood where it will show!!! Or the wood won't accept stain.
fixeruper
08-09-07, 09:56 AM
Thank You very much! That's what I needed to know. Actually I can remove window, temp install at this time. Have to remove for wood siding install, going to be a little tricky. First sheet, install window permenant....while sliding the siding into j-channel then next sheet. With this method, not sure if having jamb allready on window will be option or not? Will probably opt for fab after install. Didn't intend on highjaking this thread.......but thanks anyway!