Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - need info on Maytag A107
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HandyDandyRandy
08-02-07, 05:25 AM
Dear Jeff, or current moderator,
I'm new here but after much search and research this seems an excellent site. I'm trying to fix a friends Maytag A107 washer. (actually it's an A106/01 by the metal tag under the lid, but the schematic says A108-A107) It's displaying the same symptoms as this following post from '03. Before I buy a new timer (a106 type discontinued, must use #205001, same as currently installed, and suspect) I have a crucial question that wasn't addressed in the older post. I just want to make sure that the problem isn't a bad drive motor, as the timer might be working (hums and turns) but if the drive motor isn't working it wouldn't drain and would exhibit the same symptoms. (correct?)
Will a volt test on leads from timer to motor be sufficient to isolate problem in timer. (voltage from timer-to-motor leads means timer is working, motor isn't, correct? No voltage, bad timer, n'est pas?)
How can I test the motor independently of the timer. Ohm test, (what reading should I see?) or hot-wiring the wires to the 120? (bypassing timer) There are 5 wires, left to right; Green-Yellow-Black-White-Red.
There are no labels other than colored dots at the contacts. Looks like a standard switched phase motor. There is no drive motor hum or sign of life as the timer runs through its paces. Do you know which wires are which for me to test either way? Are the color associations standard? (aside from green for ground) The schematic shows the black running to the 'overload protector'; the yellow to the 'start winding', then on to the 'centrifugal switch', which splits (labeled 'run') to the black and the 'overload protector; the other split (label illegible but starts with 's') meets with the 'run winding' which in turn connects to the red wire; white also connects to the 'overload protector', then meets with the 'run winding'. If that doesn't make sense, sorry, there is a little piece missing from the schematic.
So again, is it really likely the timer, as with the older post, or could it still be the motor, (or something else)? As you know, you can't return a timer, if that's not the problem, so I just want to be as certain as possible before I shell out $120. And yes, I did remove the timer and shook it but did not hear anything rattling. (Dare I open the timer to try to check/fix?)
I have pics of the timer, motor, and even a somewhat legible schematic I can send, if that would help. But hope to learn soon. Client is growing impatient as the parts store already lost the timer(#205001) they had in stock, delaying me already. (might be a sign).
Your thoughts?
Sincerely, Randy
------------------------------------------------------------------
old post-same sypmtoms
04-26-03
Maytag washing machine; quit mid-cycle; full of water, timer clicks & advances
I have an older Maytag washing machine (20 years?); the only model tag I can find is on the schematic, and says Model A108-A107. It's been working fine, but this AM it filled up with water, and then clicked over into the (rest? soak?) mode where it normally stays for about 5 minutes. However, now it's staying in that mode. The dial continues to click; occasionally I hear what sounds like a relay clicking, all normal sounds, but the next cycle never starts. And the dial doesn't stop when it gets to the normal stopping place; it just keeps going round and round 360degrees, over and over. I've tried pulling out the knob and turning it to various places and then pushing it back in. Same as before. Just tick-tick-tick-occasional-relay-click-tick, but no cycle change. If I lift the lid, the timer stops clicking until I reclose the lid. I took off the cover along the top back, and found the timer, which has 20-50 wires plugged into it (I didn't count; it just seemed like a lot of wires).
I suspect it's the timer; anyone know if it's possible to test by shorting a couple of the wires leading into it to "force" the machine into the next mode, or something similar? Of do I just have to bite the bullet and spend the $120 for a timer just to test if that's what it is?
Thanks for any suggestions!
--
Kent
I'm new here but after much search and research this seems an excellent site. I'm trying to fix a friends Maytag A107 washer. (actually it's an A106/01 by the metal tag under the lid, but the schematic says A108-A107) It's displaying the same symptoms as this following post from '03. Before I buy a new timer (a106 type discontinued, must use #205001, same as currently installed, and suspect) I have a crucial question that wasn't addressed in the older post. I just want to make sure that the problem isn't a bad drive motor, as the timer might be working (hums and turns) but if the drive motor isn't working it wouldn't drain and would exhibit the same symptoms. (correct?)
Will a volt test on leads from timer to motor be sufficient to isolate problem in timer. (voltage from timer-to-motor leads means timer is working, motor isn't, correct? No voltage, bad timer, n'est pas?)
How can I test the motor independently of the timer. Ohm test, (what reading should I see?) or hot-wiring the wires to the 120? (bypassing timer) There are 5 wires, left to right; Green-Yellow-Black-White-Red.
There are no labels other than colored dots at the contacts. Looks like a standard switched phase motor. There is no drive motor hum or sign of life as the timer runs through its paces. Do you know which wires are which for me to test either way? Are the color associations standard? (aside from green for ground) The schematic shows the black running to the 'overload protector'; the yellow to the 'start winding', then on to the 'centrifugal switch', which splits (labeled 'run') to the black and the 'overload protector; the other split (label illegible but starts with 's') meets with the 'run winding' which in turn connects to the red wire; white also connects to the 'overload protector', then meets with the 'run winding'. If that doesn't make sense, sorry, there is a little piece missing from the schematic.
So again, is it really likely the timer, as with the older post, or could it still be the motor, (or something else)? As you know, you can't return a timer, if that's not the problem, so I just want to be as certain as possible before I shell out $120. And yes, I did remove the timer and shook it but did not hear anything rattling. (Dare I open the timer to try to check/fix?)
I have pics of the timer, motor, and even a somewhat legible schematic I can send, if that would help. But hope to learn soon. Client is growing impatient as the parts store already lost the timer(#205001) they had in stock, delaying me already. (might be a sign).
Your thoughts?
Sincerely, Randy
------------------------------------------------------------------
old post-same sypmtoms
04-26-03
Maytag washing machine; quit mid-cycle; full of water, timer clicks & advances
I have an older Maytag washing machine (20 years?); the only model tag I can find is on the schematic, and says Model A108-A107. It's been working fine, but this AM it filled up with water, and then clicked over into the (rest? soak?) mode where it normally stays for about 5 minutes. However, now it's staying in that mode. The dial continues to click; occasionally I hear what sounds like a relay clicking, all normal sounds, but the next cycle never starts. And the dial doesn't stop when it gets to the normal stopping place; it just keeps going round and round 360degrees, over and over. I've tried pulling out the knob and turning it to various places and then pushing it back in. Same as before. Just tick-tick-tick-occasional-relay-click-tick, but no cycle change. If I lift the lid, the timer stops clicking until I reclose the lid. I took off the cover along the top back, and found the timer, which has 20-50 wires plugged into it (I didn't count; it just seemed like a lot of wires).
I suspect it's the timer; anyone know if it's possible to test by shorting a couple of the wires leading into it to "force" the machine into the next mode, or something similar? Of do I just have to bite the bullet and spend the $120 for a timer just to test if that's what it is?
Thanks for any suggestions!
--
Kent
ecman51`
08-02-07, 07:24 AM
(Dare I open the timer to try to check/fix?)
--
Kent
If you can - by all means. I recently had one with just a couple screws. Can't remember if washer or dryer, but it was a dial timer, and found exposed points inside arced/pitted and would have only required some simple filing if one wanted to cheap out and try that without replacement. You have nothing to loose, really.
Can't guarantee though that some part(s) could not try to fly apart/out, but the one I did had no such thing and was very basic, but can't say yours is this way.
--
Kent
If you can - by all means. I recently had one with just a couple screws. Can't remember if washer or dryer, but it was a dial timer, and found exposed points inside arced/pitted and would have only required some simple filing if one wanted to cheap out and try that without replacement. You have nothing to loose, really.
Can't guarantee though that some part(s) could not try to fly apart/out, but the one I did had no such thing and was very basic, but can't say yours is this way.
boman47
08-03-07, 07:21 AM
You have already replace the timer, right? If so, I would ohm the start switch and motor before I risk the timer. Make a sketch of where the wires attach and remove the switch. Test terminals on switch for continuity. Place meter prongs/clips on opposing terminals of the switch horizonally. Some will show continuity, some will not. Now press the button on top of the switch. This should give you opposite reading for continuity. In other words, the terminals that indicated continuity before will show no continuity now and visa versa. This will tell you if the switch is indeed switching. Just a suggestion.