Lighting, Light Fixtures, Ceiling and Exhaust Fans - Electrical puzzle

Just to let everyone know, I am electrical challenged (i.e., do not know a lot about it).

Currently, I have a 15amp circuit breaker that 6 wall plug receptacles go to and 3 light switches (all in living room). A computer, tv, stereo, fan and cordless phone base are plugged into the receptacles.

My problem has been whenever I turn on the computer, the phone acts trips, and the computer will turn off or not come on at all. So, when I take an extension cord and plug the computer into another room, it comes on with no problems.

I changed all the receptacles and tested them, but still when I turn on the computer things start going haywire.

I need suggestions on what might be wrong. I changed the circuit breaker thinking it was going bad, however nothing has changed.

My question do I need to put replace the 15amp with a 20amp?

Thank you in advance for your suggestions!

Is the circuit breaker tripping? That was unclear in your post if I missed something.

If all the wiring on this circuit is 12 gage, you can up the breaker to a 20amp, but if any of the wiring on this circuit is 14 gage, you cannot go past 15amp.

It just sounds like an overloaded circuit. You said you replaced some receptacles, but did you inspect all the connections at each location? Remove back stab connections to the screw terminals.

You need a new circuit for the computer. Run (or have run) a dedicated circuit just for the computer.

Even if you could change the circuit breaker to be 20 amp (which you most likely cannot) it would NOT solve your problem, since the 15 amp circuit breaker is NOT tripping.

Thank you for both of your responses. No the breaker does not trip. How would I know what is the wiring guage?

What is a 'phone acts'? What country are located in? It doesn't sound something in north america.

Sorry for the typo. The phone acts up with lights blinking on/off and it says searching for a signal. Bottom-line something is causing the irregularity in power to our living room.

Sounds like youmight have a loose connection. Could be anywhere on the circuit. If you have receptacles with back stab connections that is a likely cause of this problem.

What are 'back stab' connections? When I changed all the receptacles there was a ground wire, 2 white wires and a 1 black wire. All when tested with a tester worked fine. This is truly a puzzle.

Your wire count sounds wrong. There should be at least as many black wires as white wires. Either there is something you are not telling us, you are remembering wrong, or you have a very unusual setup.

I stand by my assertion that your problem is due to voltage drop. Certainly a weak connection could be the culprit, but so could too many things plugged in, or a faulty device plugged in.

Back stabs are the push in type connectors on the backs of some receptacles and switches. The wire is held in by a small plate and a spring. These connectors are marginal at best and fail over time. They should not be used. Instead the screw terminals should be used.

Why did you replace the receptacles, and were you careful to place the wires in the exact same positions on the new receptacles as they were on the old ones?

Did this problem happen BEFORE you replaced the receptacles?

The wires were screwed on the sides of the receptacles, hot, neutral, another white wire and the ground. However, I cannot plug all the items into the receptacles and have them run at the same time, i.e., stereo, TV, cordless phone, computer, et cetera. Today, all I have plugged in are the cordless phone and stereo. But if I plugged in a fan, or my computer into a receptacle running off the same circuit that is when things start acting up. The items will blink, or act like they are not getting enough power.

Hello Racaft:

Yes all the wires were replaced correctly as I marked them before taking them off. Forgive me but I remember changing a black and white wire on one side of the receptacle and another wire and ground on the other side of the receptacle.

What would cause the voltage to drop? Also, by saing a 'faulty device' do you mean like the cordless phone as an example?

Thank you for the explanation on the back stabs. I can say for sure I do not have those type of receptacles. I changed all the receptacles thinking that one of them was no good thereby affecting all the others. I changed this before I purchased a tester that actually just plugs into the receptacle.

Could a circuit breaker have anything to do with puzzle? I took out the breaker for that room and purchased a new one, however it seems like it doesn't sit fully back on it's post in the breaker box. The type of breaker I took out was an ITE 15amp, type EQ-P.

Tell me more about those wires. Were there other wires in the box that were connected to something else? Did the ground wire attach to the ground screw, or to one of the other screws? How many cables enter and exit the boxes? Which cables do those four wires come from.

While these answers may not sound important, you may have more problems than you think.

A breaker that is not rated for and designed for your panel could certainly be the problem, especially if it doesn't "doesn't sit fully back on it's post". Did you buy the proper breaker?

Yes, by faulty device I mean something that plugs in and uses electricity.

Voltage drop occurs because the there is too much load on a circuit and because of the circuit length.

Racraft:

Thank you for your willingness to offer some quidance. As I am at work and will be working very late tonight, I will not be able to check on the wiring questions you have until some time tomorrow. I do know that there are 6 receptacles and the wires go from one to the other, to the other, et cetera. The ground wire is attached to the ground screw.

Tell me if I am incorrect, however a hardware store told me that the company that made the type of circuit breaker I have (single pole, ITE 15amp, type EQ-P) no longer exists. What comparable replacement breaker would I need to get from a store such as Home Depot or a True Value?

Hello Everyone:

I apologize but this may be rather long. Just to let everyone know, I am electrically challenged (i.e., do not know a lot about it).

Currently, I have a 15amp circuit breaker that 6 wall plug receptacles go to and 3 light switches (all in our living room). A computer, TV, stereo, fan and cordless phone base are plugged into the receptacles.

My problem has been whenever I turn on the computer, the lights on the cordless phone base will flicker, the computer will turn offl, and TV picture will flicker. The items will blink, or act like they are not getting enough power. When I take an extension cord and plug the computer into another room (on another circuit), it comes on with no problems.

I changed all the receptacles (they are not back stab connections) and tested them, but still when I turn on the computer things start going haywire.

The circuit breaker does not trip, however I changed it thinking it was going bad, however nothing has changed.

My question do I need to put replace the 15amp with a 20amp?

When I changed all the receptacles all tested fine. This is truly a puzzle.

Friday, I bought a new circuit breaker and put it in and everything worked fine Friday night and yesterday. However, today the same problems occurred. When I went to the breaker panel in our basement, it smelled like rotten potatoes. When I turned the circuit breaker off and turned it on again, I saw sparks on the back end of the breaker and it felt warm.

If there is something on the 'bus' of that particular breaker might this cause the problem? Or, why would I see sparks at the back end of the breaker?

The original breaker I took out was an ITE 15amp, type EQ-P.

Tell me if I am incorrect, the company that made the type of circuit breaker ITE no longer exists. If so, what comparable replacement breaker would I need to get from a store such as Home Depot or a True Value?

From what you describe on this circuit, it is overloaded. Is the wire to the breaker and to all the receptacles 14 gauge or 12 gauge? Do not put a 20 amp breaker in the mix if it is 14 gauge wire. Your wire will then become the fuse and can cause a fire.
Since you admit to being electrically challenged (and a good respect of the subject is admirable) contact a qualified electrician and give him/her the scenario and let them decide on the best course of action.

Do not start a new thread for the same problem.

Asking the same question will not change the answers.

Racraft:

Sorry about posting another question/thread. It was not my intention to do that but rather to compile everything especially in light of what I experienced yesterday with the circuit breaker.

I want to let everyone know the results in solving or finding the piece to complete my electrical puzzle.

Although very rare, it turns out that the bus bar had oxidation on it thereby not allowing for a full contact, which caused the flickering.

Thank you for all your input.

Yes, that qualifies as a weak or loose connection, something mentioned by a number of people in this thread. Congratulations on getting it fixed.

John:

Can bus bars be cleaned or changed? If so, how? If not, what would I be looking at to pay for an electrician to replace the bus bar?

Hello Everyone:

Is there a way to clean oxidation build-up on a busbar of my cirucuit breaker panel?

Thank you!

At minimum, you'd look at getting the panel innards replaced, if not the whole box. I don't thing the busses can be field repaired or replaced.