Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - Kenmore Fridge Question

Hello. I have a 2003 Kenmore Fridge. (NOT A S/S) Some time ago, the fridge door was left open over night. I discovered 12 hours later (IN morning)and pushed it closed. ( There was a lunch bag that was too big to fit in the fridge with other food). My wife woke up later and seen it was warmer than normal so reacted by turning the fridge temp cooler. Two days later we seen the freezer was fine, although the fridge wasn't going cooler than about 68 degrees. Not knowing much about fridges, most google searches suggested unplugging it for 12 hours because it may have overworked and frozen over. We tried and it helped a little, but still about 62 degrees. We tried it a second time, this time for 24 hours, and started it with the thermostat on the warmest setting and slowly lowering it to midrange over another 48 hour period. I did extensive research and this was what I came up with. Although I am not an aplliance repairman what I am about to say is based on what I understand, I am open to suggestions. The condensor system is OK, also vacuumed it just in case, I unplugged the fridge and checked damper by taking apart the fridge, and verifying it was open. I replugged and tested the fan. It is recieving 115.4V to the positive /nuetral posts, although has not been on. Some sites say it won't go on with door open (switched from door) so I also tried it by holding door jamb switches in. The fridge thermostat, I turn to off and up to highest setting, to verify the condensor kicks on, that is fine too. I took the inside freezer panel off, after having the fridge plugged in for a week, there is NO ice build up. Alot of site indicate problems related to the defrost, but I believe that it is OK. Freezer's ice machine is also fine. NO indication of any temp problems in freezer. I also removed everything away from the 2 vents that connect freezer and fridge. So I am thinking the evaporator fan is faulty. I seen the ground, and 2 power wires go to it. Is there any switch beside this, that may not be turning it over? With all the frustration, I actually sat in front of the fridge for almost 2 hours, and did not see the fan kick on once. Is there anything else I should be looking for?

If you are getting 115 volts to the freezer fan & its not running, the fan motor has to be bad. Thats why your fresh food section is warm. The fan moves some of the cold air from freezer to fresh food section through the damper you mentioned. Get me your model # & I'll look up the part # for you.
Dave

model #106.73184302
Sept 2003, Kenmore Coldspot.

Thank you for helping me. Based on what I said earlier, if the condensor is running (the typical light hum every fridge makes), the fan should be running to? Also do you know where I can pick up a part like this? I know online I could, but an actual store I can go and pick one up. I am assuming not like Home Depot, but like a mom and pop store. Any help is greatly appreciated. I'd have a cold beer waiting for you as a thanks, but you are in Central PA. That's if I can find the right fan! Thanks again!

In my neck of the woods anyway, we can only get such parts at applaince repair shops that are also nice enough to sell parts over the counter to the general public. Sometimes they have to order in the part, but often have what I need on hand. You just need to give them your make and model number to the appliance. Big box or hardware stores arent' going to have this. Specialized stuff where fan motor comes with bracket to attach to your freezer compartment.

And a Sears parts store woud be able to get one of these also. An independent shop that is not directly tied in with the retail store.

Hmm, trying to remember why the fan has 2 hot leads. Power at both hot leads? If not, find where the second one goes. Door switch, stat, timer?

The fan motor part # is 2219647 from Sears website & lists for 47.49.
To be absolutely sure it needs replaced. Pull plug, take 2 leads off motor, put your test meter leads in both wire ends, plug fridge back in & see if you're getting 120 volts. If you are, motor is bad. If not, there's another problem.
Post back & let us know. That cold beer sounds good. It was 95 here today!

Might take the fan motor to a place that reuilds electric motors and have them ohm it for you to see if the windings have gone bad. They may keep a meter under the counter for such situations at no charge. My parts place did.

I am still thinkinf the "two" hotleads and where they are going. I thinking timer and defrost thermostat. If it is one of these, you may save some money.