Air Conditioning - New Central AC Acting Funny

Hello,

I am located on the Texas coast about 80 miles south of Houston, TX.
Of course it is hot...Max thus far has been 95 F and most of the time it is quite humid up to about Max 80%.

I have a new 18 SEER 5 ton American Standard system installed in April.

It seems to run too much to keep our very well insulated 3,000 square feet at 70-72 degrees.

There has been condensation drops on several of the vents from time to time (I understand this to be a bad sign) but the AC company says not unusual especially when raining.

We have damaged walls since the AC install. Walls are wood bead board with polyurethane on them and the have "warped" in a couple rooms. One of the walls has gotten a lot of mildew on it as well. This is where one of the vents was aimed right at it. We changed the direction of that airflow and installed a 12" x 12" return in that room attempting to remove humidity.
As well, one of the large returns had a hose that had come loose and was getting alot of attic air = humid.

Humidity in that room as well as the rest of the house is staying about 74% and I think that is way too high.

My friend has suggested maybe the handler is too big and moving the air too fast over the coils picking up condensation and putting it into the house.

Any ideas would be appreciated....

Thanks

It sounds like it was not put in right. Or a bad duct job. First is the blower coil unit a V/S blower????? if so did they put in a humidistat???? This will slow the blower down and pull out much more humidity in the home for you. Have you had it on from April?????

It seems to run too much to keep our very well insulated 3,000 square feet at 70-72 degrees.
You want it to run so it get more humidity out of the home. Then you will feel cool even at 76o.


As well, one of the large returns had a hose that had come loose and was getting alot of attic air = humid.

Id check all runs and returns up there and see that they are sealed right to code.. Does the attic have all the vents in and out that it should have to vent an attic?????

Thank you for your attention/answers

It is a variable speed fan but I don't know about humidistat so I will call and ask.

Yes, it has been on since approximately late April.

Yes we absolutely want to remove humidity as I am on a river about 3 miles north of the Gulf of Mexico = Big time humidity.

I had the co-owner of the company check them all...Return connections and Runs.

The attic has good flow with a lot of volume. WHY?

Man I have been down a long road to be able to afford to pay for this and now all this trouble that they cannot seem to fix.....Arrrgh!

Thank you

Anybody???...Please

The attic has good flow with a lot of volume. WHY?

This is to keep that attic as cool as you can.

You need 1 sq ft for of vents for ever 150 sq ft of attic. 1/2 in at the over hang and 1/2 out near or by the ridge .

Also might ask them if they have the DIP Switches set right for the 5 ton AC size????? Is the duct work ok for the 5 ton? Thats 2000 cfm.

With that V/S blower you need the hunidistat there for sure

Thanks for the info

DIP switches on what?

I have a lot of venting in the soffits and ridge = hardi vent = LOTS of holes
The flow is quite strong

Where is the "humidistat" ...in the handler in area of returns? I was looking last night but only thing I saw additional was the germ/mold light.

Right now I'm not calling the installing company again as I have an AC company I and my Family have used coming to check it out Saturday. I wish I would have called them prior to install but I did not think they would go 100 miles out of their normal territory. He told me yesterday when we were talking about all of this of course he would have done the entire job for me.

OH BOY! Do I ever feel a smuck now.

If your tstat dont control humidity. Look at the paper work on the V/S blower. In the air handler on the 24V set up . It will show that the humidistat goes on the R and BK. With a jumper from O to Y/Y2 in the unit. Check the paper work on it. ;)

All I have is "Home Owner's" Manual....Would sork well for my Mom maybe.
No schematic and no mention of humidistat in the manual or the data plate on the handler.

It is top of line American Standard 2TEE Handler.

Results from my long time AC man that came about 120 miles one way to check out my house after recent install.

1) Copper line from condensor to handler is probably undersized...AS unit is 1.25 and is necked down to .75 dia at condensor exit all the way to handler.

2) Handler is covered in condensation which is sign of not enough supply volume. These guys installed a whole of 9 vents for this 5 ton unit. Did not / Would not install 12" duct to game room because of routing problems (was in original bid and then they get started...Can't do it)

3) Condensor is not grounded = Ground was not connected.
80 VAC on copper line and handler is hot as well of course.

4) Ducts are barely connected to registers = ready to fall off.

Humidity in my house magically went down to 62% most of this past weekend.....WOW! Still need another 20%.

Temp differential is between 6 - 12 degrees!

I know a couple of attorneys but I am going to give them another chance to correct all. I am quite sure by now I will not achieve a 1st class system with these guys and this new equipment may be damaged due to not being grounded.

PLUS our newly constructed wood walls that have warped and one wall is covered in mildew/mold.

This is the list I presented to compaany owner and Lead Tech last night...They are working on my system today, it is a sad sad story created by a company in business locally since 1957.

Date: 7/24/2007

To: AC Company- American Standard Cooling/Heating Install Problems

Due to the numerous complaints I have made and the subsequent field repairs, I have chosen to contact American Standard seeking advice. I wanted to become more knowledgeable of what is occurring and to be able to suggest to AC Company what the problems are as well as probable solutions. I did not submit a “Trouble Ticket” as of yet as I intend to work these problems out with Mr Leach and his company. American Standard recommended I speak with xxxxxxxxx their local Field Tech working out of Aces AC Supply in Houston which I did 7/24/2007 for about 1 hour.

I have been trying to have this rectified since shortly after the system was installed and still, to this day it doesn’t operate adequately.

Below is a list of outstanding corrections due my Install:

1) Correct humidity to proper level – Currently the lowest we have seen is 62% and typically it is in the low to mid 70s.
2) I would like an additional drain line installed to provide the necessary safety. Currently we only have one and it is on the drain pan. I think best to have drain from unit into outside drain pipe (since Toilet vent is not desired at this time) and drain pan pipe out soffit as normal.
3) Is germ light working? Is the plastic in the return box protected from the light? Children are having sinus problems that appear to be allergies. DC
4) Possibly install a fresh air vent such as was done years back?
5) Condenser and Handler are not grounded and read 80 VAC?
6) I have seen several duct terminations not tie wrapped around the insulation. (Inner duct is taped and tie-wrapped but not external insulation.)
7) Temperature differential is 6-12 degrees from Return to Supply.
8) 7/8 Dia Copper (1-1/8 at Condenser) should only be used on a 25 foot max run. We are probably close to that if not exceeding at about 30-35 feet. DC
9) Possible install a Humidistat? DC
10) Dual Stage Tstat? Possible wires are crossed on Low Voltage causing the fan to run at opposite speed as Condenser calls? DC
11) Apparently barely enough Return Area as we currently have. DC
12) Handler dip switches set correctly? (5 ton = 20 yellow flashes) DC
13) Handler is covered in condensation? Internal insulation now wet?
14) Tstat has had condensation in it at times.
15) P-Trap on pan? DC
16) Doorbell works sometimes now, usually doesn’t.
17) Oven Wire we had replaced due to being cut. $145 wire + $80 lbr $280 Circuit board we purchased prior to discovering power was suspect and not installed. Non-returnable


As well, I will have to have some of the new paneling (bead board) replaced that is damaged/molded/warped from the excess humidity. Of course our carpet is new and will have to be moved or replaced. I currently do not have any money to do these repairs upfront in order to submit billing to you.
I have to ask you to pay the carpenter that originally did the work last year and material cost to put our room back to the new condition it was prior to this AC install.


I have been trying to have all of this rectified since shortly after the system was installed. Several concerns have been addressed already. It has been one thing after another all with high humidity and majority with low temp differential. Still, to this day it doesn’t operate adequately and I know shortly you will have it taken care of for us.


Thank you,

You might also check code there where you are for what they call for.
Most call for the drain line to have a P trap at unit and run outside or to a drain sewer line. But not be fix to it. It has to go into a open trap like your washer does. Then the pan under the unit have its own drain to the outside over hang. Come out over a door a window or a walk way. So you will see it if water comes out. A lot codes now call for a overflow cut out switch in the P trap or in the over flow pan. ;)

You might also check code there where you are for what they call for.
Most call for the drain line to have a P trap at unit and run outside or to a drain sewer line. But not be fix to it. It has to go into a open trap like your washer does. Then the pan under the unit have its own drain to the outside over hang. Come out over a door a window or a walk way. So you will see it if water comes out. A lot codes now call for a overflow cut out switch in the P trap or in the over flow pan. ;)


Thanks Ed,

We have the cut-off switch in the pan. Both of my drains are currently plumbed into one as we are on septic. tied into pipe that drains washing machine into yard. Sewer is coming down streeet soon but those guys are in court in Austin due to overuns and a whole year late on stage 1...I'm in stage 2 of course.

These guys know codes well...They do our Courthouse and other local government buildings etc...

They claim to be lost as why humidity is so high. Calling home builders, American Standard, and whoever else to tell them why their system is essentially a swamp cooler in my house on the Gulf coast.

Turns out the handler was about 1-1/2 inches unlevel and leaning towrad the coil end. Fan was picking up water and putting it into the supply.

According to me and Install company has agreed I am getting a brand new handler. It was dripping wet inside everywhere, electronics, now fatigued fan motor which has rust on it at about 3 months old.

They will pay for wall repairs and Install company has agreed.

Of course American Standard does not care!

My God what one idiot can cost so many people.

Glad I went with the best available!

Sounds like you've got a good honest contractor. Hold on to them.

This morning the AC Company called to say they were coming with replacement handler if OK. I said sure let's go.

I am awaiting call-back from Blackmon-Mooring to get cleaning begun related to the mold on the walls. AC company owner said "how much will it cost" so I will entertain him with $#.
Probably go the old school way...tried and proven bleach.

Pretty sure we are going to clean panelling a little bit with bleach to minimize anything to spread and then out the door to be burned.

Replace insulation, bead-board panels, carpet

About $9,000 currently estimated for re-construction all due to 1 knuckle head I let in my door so I could pay him to poison my Family and House.

Oh, and our house is cool and humidity readings going down since I levelled the handler Saturday.

Back to my old mentality...."Never hire anyone do do anything, If I can't do it I don't need it".