Outdoor Power Equipment and Small Engines - Troy Bilt Tecumseh w/no spark

I have an old Troy Bilt tiller that I inherited from my dad (Tecumseh 5 hp HH60 series engine). It got a new carb., plug and some cleaning last winter and it ran fine. After tilling for 45 min., it just died. There is no spark. I replaced the condenser and points. I've checked for misc. ground and can find none. I am feeling that it's the magneto/coil/armature (Tecumseh part no. 611040). According to my local hardware store, this has been discontinued with no suggested replacement. A neighbor suggested replacing with an electronic ignition unit. Will an electronic ignition get me going and who's should I get?

The electronic conversion will not work if it is an electric start unit with a charging circut. I currently have one of these in my shop that also has a no spark condition. I removed the coil and found that the primary wire had ben rubbing on something and has a bare spot. I will try to solder a new wire onto the coil. If that does not work, Tulsa engine Warehouse sells replacement after market coils for the hh50/60. I have used these after market coils before and they work fine. You are correct about Tecumseh no longer having this part available. Also not available are the flywheel and ignition stator plate.

I have an old Troy Bilt tiller that I inherited from my dad (Tecumseh 5 hp HH60 series engine). It got a new carb., plug and some cleaning last winter and it ran fine. After tilling for 45 min., it just died. There is no spark. I replaced the condenser and points. I've checked for misc. ground and can find none. I am feeling that it's the magneto/coil/armature (Tecumseh part no. 611040). According to my local hardware store, this has been discontinued with no suggested replacement. A neighbor suggested replacing with an electronic ignition unit. Will an electronic ignition get me going and who's should I get?

Tecumseh still has the replacement coil but you have to time the engine if you remove the coil holder as the holes are sloted. Best left for a tech that has the old tools. Make sure that nothing has happen to the points and condenser by removing the flywheel and checking. Look at the wires also. One big problem with these units was when the flywheel was removed, occasionally the magnets would come loose from the inside of the flywheel and wipe out the entire ignition system (worst case). Take a good lood and check you point gap again. You can loosely install the flywheel and just turn over the unit where you should be getting spark, if you hold on to the end of the plug wire you will feel a slight tickle, then you should be good to tighten down the flywheel. You do not have to spin the flywheel for this test but just rock it back and forth.

There is no solid state ignition setup for these engines. There is an armature (ignition coil) you can replace but first be sure you have the point gap set properly to .020" at the full open position of the point cam (the crankshaft keyway will be straight up). If you are certain that this is correct and you find no bare wires related to the ignition system and you are confident that the new points and condensor are not to blame (in other words, OEM and not aftermarket parts) then you should look to replace the coil, Tecumseh part number 30560A. You don't need to remove the stator to replace such but it is a tight fit.