Outdoor Power Equipment and Small Engines - Murray hydroststic tranny question

I can get a Murray riding lawn mower pretty cheap and I'm wondering if there are any known issues with hydrostatic transmissions on these. All I know is that its 1995 or 96 and heres a picture.

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x320/msidan/Cg5p9ixDVmNHJrAyaGzAcOul53WU.jpg

The tranny has an oil cap on top like I'm supposed to put something in it, but I don't know what.

I've not seen numerous of these but have seen a few. Never had one with issues. I use a high grade SAE 20/50 motor oil which I believe I found recommended by a Manuf. Owners manual.

Well, I ended it buying this about a month ago and it's a great tractor for $275 plus new mower belt, two new bearings for the deck, carb rebuild, etc... Lots of power... but today the battery seems to have gone from full charge to sudden death. Jumpstart at the battery and tractor starts fine so the solenoid and wires are good. Is it normal for batteries to die like that?

Other question is the engine sounds like something rubs against something right as it starts up and then you never hear it again. (I'll post a vid when I get a chance) Also it makes a slight knock when low on oil; fill with oil, knock goes away. Is that a sign that something serious may go wrong with this? Just want to be sure because I'm leaving this tractor with my parents when I go to college.

Engine is: Briggs and Stratton 18hp twin I/C

model: 422707
Type: 1264 01
Code: 9412215B

Tractor is: Ultra by Murray

Model:46902X6A
Serial: 95012_019528

I don't think it abnormal, especially if its just a cheap lawn n garden battery. A good interstate or similar you can keep charging and jumping for a while, but they too will eventually just quit.

I've had batteries die like that. Check for a drain on it though to be sure.

If the knock is gone now that it's full, then I wouldn't worry too much. The rubbing sound is probably the top starter bushing...they get dry and make a funny sound. The engine cranking up lets the starter speed up, and the noise is often heard at that time.

hey msidan...I might have read post #3 wrong but you said you hear a slight knock when it is low on oil, fill it up with oil and the knock goes away. I also read you bought this roughly a month ago.

Are you saying you bought it, cranked it up, heard the knock, discovered it was low on oil, filled w/ oil - and the knock went away and is still away or....

Are you saying this mower has been low enough on oil enough times to cause a knock several times. Maybe I'm reading too much into it but if you are losing that much oil several times over the course of a month I don't think that is right. Only reason I bring it up is since you are leaving it with your parents (if they are like mine) they might not be as good at checking the oil and ruin the motor....(yea my dad did that)

No... I mean WHENEVER it gets low on oil, it knocks. I never let it go below the low mark. When I bought the thing, the oil REALLY needed changing.

This tractor sees about 10 hours of use each month. So i have to add oil about every two weeks. (I check the oil every other time I use it though)

Sounds like a well-used engine. Anytime it knocks, there is damage being done. I suggest making sure the oil never gets low enough to let it knock. Otherwise, you're speeding up the inevitable. If it's kept full of oil all the time, it may run for several years. Opposed twins are especially susceptible to damage from low oil levels because the majority of them aren't pressure lubed, and the top rod is the first to lose proper lubrication when the oil level is low.

Wha da ya know... The battery is not bad. I had taken it out to install a tale light and when I hooked it back up, I didn't notice how dirty the connections were. Guess all I need is new terminals. (I thought it was odd for a battery to be perfectly good one moment, 100% dead the next).

Another thing, I was mowing up a steep hill when in one spot the tractor stopped moving. The tranny was still making it"s hydro noise and it wasn't falling backward, but with pedal all the way down it wasn't moving. Only happened in that on spot.

I was kind of hoping for a response to my last post about the tranny not moving on the hill. But anyway, back to the battery, in the morning, it's foaming around the negative terminals. Still has plenty of power and holds it's charge, but sometimes it doesn't work, but hitting that negative terminal a few times makes it work?! Does it sound like this battery will last though the winter?

Sounds like the battery is leaking acid out of the lead terminals. I'd replace it rather than let it rust out the frame where the battery leaks.

The hydro issue sounds like either it's low on oil, or the cooling fins on the tranny are full of dirt and grass clippings, and the unit is overheating/cavitating.

It looks like I'll have to remove the tranny from the frame to check its oil. Would an automotive store have the oil?

My Murray lookup doesn't indicate which tranny is in this mower, what is the make and model of it?

The model of the tranny or the tractor?

Tractor is: Ultra by Murray

Model:46902X6A
Serial: 95012_019528

If you want a number off just the tranny, I'll have to look at it later.

It looks like I'll have to remove the tranny from the frame to check its oil. Would an automotive store have the oil?

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I've not seen numerous of these but have seen a few. Never had one with issues. I use a high grade SAE 20/50 motor oil which I believe I found recommended by a Manuf. Owners manual.

I already new that Az... Would an automotive store have that oil? Or would I have to order it somewhere?

Most any "store" that sells motor oil should carry it. It is not a "special" grade or blend, simply motor oil.
Castrol GTX is a quality brand. It may be advertised as high performance oil for hard working engines.....etc.

Ok I found it. Now about the engine again... The knock is getting worse. Is there a thicker oil that would help it?

Oh, and how much oil should go in the transmission? It has a plastic reservoir on top of the tranny; should I just fill that all the way up?

If there is no dipstick, there may be a "full" line on the resevoir itself. If not, I am unsure, you might have to drain and find the proper amount that it holds and refill...???

Anyone know where I could find a manual (free) for this? The Murray site "does not support murray products before 2003"

If there is no dipstick, there may be a "full" line on the resevoir itself. If not, I am unsure, you might have to drain and find the proper amount that it holds and refill...???

So... Its possible to over-fill it and damage the tranny some how?

did you get the numbers from the transmission? I've got some Tecumseh and Peerless literature that might tell. As far as the overfill question my guess is yes, I would think it would cause the hydro not to work but again....that is a guess.

Sorry guys...this will have to wait until spring. I'm leaving for college...tomorrow!
(Leaving things to the last minute is such a good way of doing things isn't it?)

Anyway, thanks for all your help guys. I've learned so much through this site over the last year and a half and I just want to say thanks.