Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Checking Floor Level (and other ?s)
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ClemsonJeeper
06-18-07, 07:02 PM
Hi there, new here but been trolling for a few days since I decided to bite the bullet and install Pergo in my main level of my home since the carpet has really gone ugly in it in the high traffic areas (previous owner didn't opt for upgraded carpet, I guess).
Anyway its a relatively new townhouse (build in 2001), and I've gone ahead and pulled up the carpet, padding, and carpet tack strips. I'm still up in the air if I'm going to go all the way and pull the molding but regardless.
What is the best way to check how level/flush the floor is? I know people say less than 1/8" every 6 feet but what is the best way to measure this? Also, the staples they used to hold the padding down did not come up. Would it be best to pull them all (hundreds of the little guy) or nail them into the wood completely?
Also, I imagine that one would use a mitre saw to cut the planks width-wise, but what type of saw would one recommend to cut them lengthwise? (for cutting the tongue off, etc) I don't have enough room for a table saw (unfortunately).
I will have many more questions I'm sure, so... get used to my name. :-)
TIA!
~rob
Anyway its a relatively new townhouse (build in 2001), and I've gone ahead and pulled up the carpet, padding, and carpet tack strips. I'm still up in the air if I'm going to go all the way and pull the molding but regardless.
What is the best way to check how level/flush the floor is? I know people say less than 1/8" every 6 feet but what is the best way to measure this? Also, the staples they used to hold the padding down did not come up. Would it be best to pull them all (hundreds of the little guy) or nail them into the wood completely?
Also, I imagine that one would use a mitre saw to cut the planks width-wise, but what type of saw would one recommend to cut them lengthwise? (for cutting the tongue off, etc) I don't have enough room for a table saw (unfortunately).
I will have many more questions I'm sure, so... get used to my name. :-)
TIA!
~rob
Gtexan
06-19-07, 08:14 AM
Hey good luck with the installation. Don't get frustrated--the instructions are much easier than the actual installation process, but it comes around eventually.
As for the carpet staples, I used a pair of needlenose and pulled all of them out. It took some time but was easy.
With regards to the way of cutting the planks, I simply used a normal circular saw. Be careful with blade selection though--laminate is made of some pretty dense stuff and it chewed right through my steel teeth blades
As for the carpet staples, I used a pair of needlenose and pulled all of them out. It took some time but was easy.
With regards to the way of cutting the planks, I simply used a normal circular saw. Be careful with blade selection though--laminate is made of some pretty dense stuff and it chewed right through my steel teeth blades
ClemsonJeeper
06-19-07, 08:46 AM
Great. What blade do you recommend then? I have a 12" mitre saw.
Also, any suggestions on testing the floor to find out if there are any parts that need to be smoothed out?
Also, any suggestions on testing the floor to find out if there are any parts that need to be smoothed out?
Carpets Done Wright
06-20-07, 09:39 PM
There is a sticky topic at the top of this forum, concrete floor prep. there are picture links you can copy and paste into your browser to see(they don't allow links here.)
chrisyoumans
06-30-07, 04:58 PM
Sounds like a wood floor...
You can take staples out with a pair of vise grips too. The curved side of the vise grips acts like a lever to pull em out.
Use a long 2x4 that you know have a straight edge and hold a flashlight behind it and look for the light. If you see light, you have a dip. You can use a long level if you have one as well.
Chris
You can take staples out with a pair of vise grips too. The curved side of the vise grips acts like a lever to pull em out.
Use a long 2x4 that you know have a straight edge and hold a flashlight behind it and look for the light. If you see light, you have a dip. You can use a long level if you have one as well.
Chris
Divemaster
07-06-07, 07:28 PM
Buy a 6 foot level, find your high spot in the floor with it. Take the 6 foot level and swing it around in a circle with one end of the level on the high spot. (or buy a very straight piece of lumber and put a standard level on it. ) look for gaps under the level. Be careful your mostly looking for flatness, over 6 to 8 feet not level. Some houses are not level at all but you want a nice flat floor. If your floor is seriously out of level with peaks and valleys use roofing shingles to fill the gaps. I have fixed flooring that was out 3/4 of an inch over 6 feet using this method and my floors are super.
Buy a small portable table saw at Sears, you can pick one up for $180 bucks and it will work as good as anything for what you doing. They are also light and can be moved from room to room easily. Beats the heck out of trying to cut with a circular saw.
Buy a small portable table saw at Sears, you can pick one up for $180 bucks and it will work as good as anything for what you doing. They are also light and can be moved from room to room easily. Beats the heck out of trying to cut with a circular saw.