Outdoor Power Equipment and Small Engines - Need engine (Toro 7-25 riding lawnmower)

for a Toro 7-25 riding lawnmower. old engine is blown beyond repair. (hole in side on block) old engine model 252707 type 0647-01 code 84011211 anyone know where I can find a replacement or a engine that will work. its a Briggs and stratton 11HP 400 CC engine.

This is an 11-horse engine and was originally a 7-horse so this indicates the engine has been replaced once already. Is the mower in good enough shape to consider this? And since it is not original, the replacement for this engine may not necessarily be the right way to go. But anyhow, the replacement for this engine is another Briggs, part number 217907-0025. Any 8 to 12-horse flat-head, single-cylinder engine should work for you though, if you're looking for a used engine.

Would you be able to tell me the shaft size and DIA so if I get one used it has the right size shaft.

It would be easier for you to measure the crankshaft than it would be for me to cross-reference it and since you need to remove the engine anyhow, have a look for yourself and do the measuring. Most likely, though, 1" diameter and 3 5/32" long. Bear in mind that not only will you be concerned with the crank dimensions but the wiring setup as well.

yeah thats what the replacement engine this one warehouse has. but forget a new engine they want over $400 for it and another place wants close to $600 for a new engine :eek: i think I found a used one on ebay just waiting to see what happends

Im going to mark this solved for now as I found a engine on ebay for $180 total. $125 + $55 shipping. its coming from new york

Ok I noticed that this mower does not have a on/off (starter switch) does anyone now what kind I need. there appers to be 2 wires for it but im not sure. the wireing digram for a 88 toro 7-25 shows 4 wires. is that correct. Im guessing its a 88

I don't know which four wires you may be referring to so if you post back with the chassis' model and serial numbers as well as the new engine's model, type and code numbers I can have a look at what you have and what you need to do to tie in the new engine to the chassis' wiring harness. Is the new engine electric start or manual start only? Was the mower originally set up with an electric start feature? In other words, how, in the past, have you started the mower - pull start or key start? Again, ID numbers of both the new engine and the chassis, please.

The new engine is Code # is 84042711.model # is 252707, and the type# is 0638 01 the old engine when I got it is blown. theres a crack in the side of the block. heres a site I went to for digram. click on engine assemble. Im guessing its a 88. and Like said its a toro 7-25 riding lawnmower. the first engine according the website was electric start only and was a Tecumseh. the engine I pulled off was a briggs 11 HP electric start model 252707 type 0647-01 code 84011211 the new engine is used. anyway heres the website. and I'll try when I have time to look on the chasse http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=toro_consumer&mn=56127%2C+7-25+Rear+Engine+Rider%2C+1988+%28SN+8000001-8999999%29

hope that somewhat helps. I got the rider off of ebay for $100 and they delivered also

7-25 is not the model number! Please find the ID tag and post back with the model and serial numbers. It will be somewhere on the frame (chassis) of the mower.

Ok I will try to look tomorrow then sorry im trying my best. I just figured out what 7-25 means. 7HP 25 inch cut :o Ok sorry I didn't know im somewhat learning here. I will see if I can find it tommorrow sorry :(

EDIT I GOT IT model 56125 serial 7002743

flirty, I think we had 3 posts on this, two of which were merged it seems but I replied to the one that wasn't. - anyway
Follow your positive battery cable which should take you to the starter solenoid where there should be two large posts. The other large post should connect to what you were refering to as a 'ground post' on the starter I think. The wire coming from the engine you said had an 'aligator clip' attached I'm thinking is the wire from the alternator I would imagine.
My question is if you pulled an electric start Briggs (the one that broke) how did it start before?

it looked like a aligater clip but its too short to reach anything on the starter and the battery. everything was disconnected when I got it and Im trying it peace it back together. the battery is out. But when I hook it up follow the red or positive which should take me to the starter solenoid where there should be two large posts. The other large post should connect to what you were referring to as a 'ground post' on the starter I think.that would connect to that screw on the engine. the other post leave as its part of the battery. the charger cable is short so its not reaching anything. and its covered by a black plastic boot. Im new so I know nothing about electrics.its over at a friends house so this weekend will take a look at whats going on

Has this mower ran since you've had it or are we starting from scratch? If it did run how did you start the previous Briggs engine? The 'ground post' shouldn't be a ground post at all but supplies power from the battery via the starter solenoid to the starter, I was merely quoting your earlier post using your terminology.
Thanks for posting the model/serial number so those that can look that kind of stuff up can provide good answers.
I'd say don't hook the battery up yet until we come to an understanding of terminology so we are all on the same page.
If I am guessing correctly you bought this mower with a blown second engine. The person that replaced the first engine with the second engine gutted the wiring and used the recoil starter instead of the electric start since you mention there is not an 'on / off (starter switch)'.
Hang in there and this forum will get you going.

Bear with me until later today/tonight. I need to get working at my shop right now but this mower has no solenoid and I'll give you a run down of the electrical arrangement later today.

"Bear with me until later today/tonight. I need to get working at my shop right now but this mower has no solenoid and I'll give you a run down of the electrical arrangement later today."

Ok thanks.

duigoose

it looks like the wires are there for the switch. I'm not 100% sure. I will wait until puey can find the wiring digram

https://homeownersolutions.toro.com/portal/server.pt?space=CommunityPage&cached=true&parentname=CommunityPage&parentid=2&in_hi_userid=19461&control=SetCommunity&CommunityID=214&PageID=0

Use the above link (copy and paste into another web page) and input your model number and serial number and hit the enter button on your keyboard. This will bring up a page where you will then click on the "Look up parts" tab. Then click on the "Schematic" link and you will then see the electrical setup of your machine. Print a copy of this and then post back here for further instructions. Also post back with all the total number of wires and the colors of such as well as the color of the connectors related to such wires coming from the new (used) engine you bought.

OK i printed out the diagram. The new(used) engine has only one wire its either red or black (hard to tell) and it has what looks like a black boot around it.

Are you sure there are no other wires from under the flywheel? Look closely for any wires (two, hopefully) that may have been cut off close and under the flywheel. Stand on your head to look under the flywheel, if you must! Just kidding, but look closely for any sign of wires. There SHOULD be two wires as well as a voltage regulator mounted to the flywheel shroud!

OK there are 2 wires i forgot about the other. One like I said comes out and is feed through the mounting frame of the starter. the other is black and connects to a screw terminal on the side of the engine where you connect the control cable.

Ok like said I there is 2 wires after all. One is black and connects to a screw terminal on the side of the engine where the trottle controll is. the other one is either black or red and has what looks like a push connecter. so anyideas where those hookup. according the diagram the wires are while and red but this engines wire are black and I think red.

Sorry it took a while to respond, I've had a busier week than usual. Hopefully, the wiring schematic makes sense to you and the only difference will be that you will substitute the white wire in the schematic for the red wire on your new engine and the red wire (from the engine) in the schematic with the black wire from your engine. On your new engine, the black wire is the kill (shut-off) wire and the red wire is the charging circuit wire. Again, you have no starter solenoid (as someone suggested previously), Toro simply uses the key (ignition) switch as the solenoid. Where the black wire terminal is (near the carburetor), this is merely a junction point on your new engine. You will run a wire from the interlock module to this point (junction) for the ability to shut (kill) the engine down, as indicated in the schematic. Again, your old white wire is now red and your old red wire is now black, on the new engine.

OK well I ordered a starter switch about 3 weeks ago takes 2-3 days priority mail Has not arrived yet :mad: so In the meanwhile is there anyway to start it without a switch.

Ok went over there today. got the new(used) engine mounted. Wired up the starter but thats as far as I got as I need to splice the white wire and red wire longer so they can reach. also the white wire broke off from the fuse so I need to fix that. Also there are for wires for the switch it looks like. 2 thick red and white. and 2 small red and white. What wire is which. In the diagram there not that color there red grey red white. this was a wireing harness so it looks like it was taken apart so this engine could work.

Someone apparently has changed out the gray wire for a red wire, it appears. One heavy red wire will go from the "B" terminal on the key (ignition) switch to the positive post of the battery, the other heavy red wire will go from the "S" terminal on the key switch to the starter motor (on the engine) terminal post. The red wire on the new engine (from under the flywheel) will go to the "B" terminal on the key switch and must be fused using a standard inline fuse holder available at any automotive store. There is no recommendation or indication of the fuse rating but either a 7.5Amp or 10Amp should do the trick. And, finally, the black wire from the new engine will splice into the red wire from the interlock module that does not go to the key switch. In other words, you should have two red pigtails from the module with one running to the "M" terminal on the key switch and the other splicing into the kill wire (black) from the new engine. Phew, let us know the outcome.

the fuse is there just the wire it connects to broke off the fuses.so that will need to be fixed. I will print out what you said so I can take it with me and follow it. Im waiting on another switch sense the last one never showed :mad:.

If you want, I can advise you on how to wire in a new(er) style starting setup with a keyswitch/solenoid setup using common parts that should be available immediately at most any small engine shop...to save you having to wait for the Toro switch to come in. But, you may be committed to buying the Toro part and I wouldn't want the dealer you ordered it from to be stuck with it but perhaps they'll understand that you've been waiting a while and would understand if you decided to cancel the order. And, perhaps, you can reciprocate by purchasing the newer style parts from them, if they have such. Did you order the part from a local dealer?

no unfortonitly. I ordered it from a guy in the lawnmower business who I met on ebay.never had a problem before. this time I orderd the new one from a online distributer and will receive a email when it has shipped.(within 5 buiness days.)

Oh I forgot to say. The new (used) engine. the bolt hole in the shaft for the pully bolt is bigger then the old one. Same model number but differnt type and code number. Should I be worred.I could just go the hardware store pickup a bolt and cross thread it if needed.I could drill the hole in the new pully bigger if its to small for the new bolt. Would this cause any problems.

The larger thread should pose no problem. Be sure to purchase a grade 8 bolt from your local hardware store though and yes, you will need to drill (bore) out the center of the pulley to accomodate the larger bolt but this, too, will present no trouble. Just be sure to drill the exact size of the bolt used.

I want to correct a earler post. theres 2 thick wires 1 red one white. and to normal size red and white. so the heavy red goes to the B on the switch. the heavy white(grey maby just faded) goes to the S on the switch and what about the the normal red and white. theres 3 spades. S B M

Normal red and normal white? I thought you said earlier that you have a small gauge red and a small gauge black coming from the engine, is this true? So now where does the small gauge white wire come in to play? Trace this wire and tell me where it originates from.

theres 4 wires. a heavy gauge red wire and a heavy gauge white/gray wire.then theres a small gauge red wire and small gauge white wire.The small white wire has the fuse.
so acording to the diagram the heavy gauge red wire goes to B along with the small white wire with the fuse.The heavy gauge white/grey wire goes to S and the small red wire goes to M

OK Went over there installed the switch filled the engine with oil and gas fresh plug. Fired up but runs rough so I will need to adjust the carb. theres one screw I can see and thats the the main jet/float bowl bolt and that is adjustable. so what do I set that at.Also theres a rubber boot that goes from the carb to the valve cover thats cracked at the carb so its leaking gas. what is this part called and part number so I can order it. again model 252707 type 0638 briggs 11HP. so at least it runs

Whoa, whoa, whoa, don't run this again until we're clear on the wiring setup!!! I was sure you indicated you now have one small red and one small black from the new engine. Is this true? Did you then splice original colored wires to the new engine's wires thereby "changing" the colors and this is what you're referring to... the spliced colors? Please tell me the colors of the wires coming from the new engine!!! The carburetor should have two fuel adjustment screws, one on the bottom of the bowl (main adjusting needle) and one on the top of the carb exactly opposite the main needle, being the idle fuel circuit needle. Start with the main needle at 1 3/4 turns out from seated and the idle needle at 1 1/2 turns out from seated. You will likely need to fine tune from here but this is a good place to start. The rubber boot is the crankcase breather tube and if you have fuel pouring out of this then you have a carburetor in need of removal, soaking, cleaning and reconditioning with a Briggs rebuild kit and possibly a float. Are you sure the fluid from the breather tube is fuel and not oil? Does the engine oil smell like gasoline? The boot is part number 692253, the kit is part number 394698 and the float is part number 299707.

Whoa, whoa, whoa, don't run this again until we're clear on the wiring setup!!! I was sure you indicated you now have one small red and one small black from the new engine. Is this true? Did you then splice original colored wires to the new engine's wires thereby "changing" the colors and this is what you're referring to... the spliced colors? Please tell me the colors of the wires coming from the new engine!!! The carburetor should have two fuel adjustment screws, one on the bottom of the bowl (main adjusting needle) and one on the top of the carb exactly opposite the main needle, being the idle fuel circuit needle. Start with the main needle at 1 3/4 turns out from seated and the idle needle at 1 1/2 turns out from seated. You will likely need to fine tune from here but this is a good place to start. The rubber boot is the crankcase breather tube and if you have fuel pouring out of this then you have a carburetor in need of removal, soaking, cleaning and reconditioning with a Briggs rebuild kit and possibly a float. Are you sure the fluid from the breather tube is fuel and not oil? Does the engine oil smell like gasoline? The boot is part number 692253, the kit is part number 394698 and the float is part number 299707.

the wireing for the engine is red for the alternator and black for the kill. black to red and white to red. all wires are hooked up correctly and it runs when started. there were 4 wires for the switch. 1 thick red 1 thick grey 1 small red and 1 small white. everything is hooked up correctly according to the diagram. yes the engine did start and run but it runs rough. I will adjust the carb first before deciding about rebuilding.yes gas was coming out of the cracked breather tube.as for the carb kit theres no way i can rebuild this thing too many parts.
also could the engine run rough because theres no load. the pulley is not on so its not turning the blade or transmission

The engine can run rough without a load but if you get the adjustments right (if the carburetor condition allows) then it won't matter if you have a load or not. If you are not able or willing to service the caburetor and, however, you should, you'd better bring the carburetor to a service shop that will do this for you. But, heck, you've come this far so far, what's a simple carburetor reconditioning? You can do it, we'll help you through it.

Ok got the new breather tube. I will order the new drive pulley and when that comes go over and work on the engine. I will adjust the carb first and see if it runs any better.

If gas is coming out of the breather tube, no amount of adjusting will fix it. The needle is not seating and shutting off the gas in the carb. Pull the bowl off and see what's there...could just be some loose debris floating around.

If gas is coming out of the breather tube, no amount of adjusting will fix it. The needle is not seating and shutting off the gas in the carb. Pull the bowl off and see what's there...could just be some loose debris floating around.

Ok when i get a chance I will look at it. if needed will take the carb off and take it to a repair shop see if it can be fixed if not then I will have to buy a new one

umm is it possible just to order a basic carb kit like just the float needle and seat in stead of doing a major repair. this is not the original carb. the original carb broke at the fuel line connection when trying to connect the fuel line but both engines are 11HP and the same model so I switched carbs. old engine model 252707 type 0647-01 code 84011211

new (used) engine is model 252707 type 0638 so basically they the same engine one was just made before the other

Both are exactly the same carburetor - Briggs part number 491026.

Well gave it the old collage try. got it purring like a kitten with a cough here and there running fast still no idle then it refused to run right cause of all the fuel. + the battery won't hold a charge had to use a jumper box. and on top of that the pulley don't fit. the shaft is too big. but if both are the same engine and pulleys why does it not fit unless the old pulley was modified or there not the same engine. :confused: Oh well thanks for you help. I guess I will just have to take it to a shop see if they will work on it Im done with it. giving up. :(

ok im reviving this thread. I found out the original engine is a tecumseh 7hp model V70-125260E what size shaft is it and what engine will fit. the 11 hp briggs engine that I installed earlyer in this thread has too big of a shaft so i cannot get a pulley to fit so were back to where we started from

hello again. OK i have the mower here with me for the winter. im going to sell the 11HP engine and try to find a engine with the right size shaft and 7HP. the original engine was a Tecumseh model V70-125260E with both electric and rope start. i have had 2 sources tell me the size shaft. one says 7/8 the other 3/4 which is it i want to get this thing working correctly with the right engine.i have the correct pully but the engine needs a outside key for ther pulley to stay

Just measure the hole in the pulley...that will be the shaft size. I'm not sure what you mean by an outside key? Normally there would be a piece of keystock slipped between the crank and pulley in the keyway.

well thats good but the pulley was sent back. anyway another update. found a old 7hp engine craftsman/Tecumseh model 143-246212 ser-4101d with a 7/8 shaft which is what i need.guy i got from got it off a Toro with a bad trans. needs a new carb as fuel jets out where the air filter should be. anyway got to get the current pulley off. tried using a gear puller and the part that you put the wrench too broke off. so I'm going to see if i can get someone to cut the pulley off with a grinder. the engine runs. the old oil was bad look Grey and soupy and from experience thats from water.carb choke plate is rusty. he said it ran last year and has been in storage sense then. drained it and put fresh oil in. compression is 80PSI good enough.rope start. got the 2 belts on the way the pulley and the new carb for the engine. it ran but if i hook the gas tank to it it will leak badly.but it runs.sounded strong no metal noises or rod knock.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/junkcollecter/PICT0252.jpg

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ok got the old pulley off ended up taking to a friend with a better gear puller and the pulley came off. the engine was supposed to have a 7/8 dia shaft and thats what i was told. well the guy that sold me the engine must have measured wrong has it has a 1 inch dia shaft. have a pulley that will fit the engine but its not the right size for the belts so will have to make it work some how.got the new carb and i guess its not compleat. i got to install a new fuel line plug and take the throttle plate from the old carb and install it on the new one.shouldn't carbs come complete. I never had a new carb be incomplete before.all this is according to the directions sent with the carb including what to set the needles at. just so you know the carb is Tecumseh/Peerless Part 631863C and the engine is a tecumseh/craftsman 143-246212 7HP

I, too, have never seen a carburetor come without the choke assembly. I'd say take it back to the shop you got it at and complain. Incidentally, the choke shaft is part number 631779 and the plate is part number 631753. By the way, this is the correct carburetor part number for this engine.

well i got most of the parts tranfered from the old carb got the choke plate and shaft installed but could not get the top off the cutoff plate (round thing without holes on ehaust side) and did not have the right size allen wrench i just took it to the shop to have them finish it and install the fuel fitting.

it won't start. i've tried starting fluid gas in the spark plug hole. got it to pop a little but it won't start. would it have anything to do with the fact i can't disengage the blades.when i try to move the handle to disengage it makes the belt tighter. do i have the blade belt on wrong. can you provide a link to a diagram for the belts routing i could not find one. im dragging it up to the shop when i get up see if will look at it :wall: the orignal pulley would not fit the engine has a 1 inch shaft not a 7/8 like the guy said that sold it to me. so i got a bigger double pulley on there the blade belt is tight so is the trans belt but the blades will not disengage

IT STILL WON'T START :wall: :wall: b what is the problem. both low and high screws are set to 1 and 1/2 turns from seated for a base line nothing maybe a back fire but thats it. why won't it start. not even starting fluid or gas in the spark hole. did i get a defective carb

Kinda hard to diagnose since it sounds like it's already kind of a mess, lol. It could simply be not turning fast enough with the extra load from belts that are too tight, or a safety switch not actuating properly because of the tight belts, or a bad spark plug, coil, kill circuit or wiring, etc...

Kinda hard to diagnose since it sounds like it's already kind of a mess, lol. It could simply be not turning fast enough with the extra load from belts that are too tight, or a safety switch not actuating properly because of the tight belts, or a bad spark plug, coil, kill circuit or wiring, etc...

i removed the pulley and it still wouldn't start. when the old carb was on it backfired and stuff but got it to run with gas in the spark plug hole. now with the new carb nothing is it possible to get a defective carb. i don't have any wires hooked to the engine. the only wire this engine has is the alternator wire.this engine has no grounding circuit. you turn it off by choking it (no fuel or air) via the throttle cable.

That might be how you are killing it, but not how it's supposed to be. It has a kill circuit, and that could be why it won't run. Are you going to try a new plug? Yes, the carb was defective when you got it because as Puey61 said, it should not have been missing parts. Sounds like the shop was robbing parts from that carb and then sold it to you. Who knows what other parts are missing from it. I

If I may add a note without offending you,: I really think you'd be better off picking up a different project. This one is too much of an obsolete basket case to be wasting time and money on in my opinion.

That might be how you are killing it, but not how it's supposed to be. It has a kill circuit, and that could be why it won't run. Are you going to try a new plug? Yes, the carb was defective when you got it because as Puey61 said, it should not have been missing parts. Sounds like the shop was robbing parts from that carb and then sold it to you. Who knows what other parts are missing from it. I

If I may add a note without offending you,: I really think you'd be better off picking up a different project. This one is too much of an obsolete basket case to be wasting time and money on in my opinion.

yeah i tossed in the towel and had someone else work on it. The carb i ordered online like i do most of my parts.and the instructions that came with it said i needed to transfer parts. the guy that sold me the engine dropped off the wrong one. this was supposed to be a 7HP with a 7/8 dia shaft. it turned out to be a 8HP with a 1 inch and the guy doesn't return my phone calls or emails. I suggested he reimburse the client for the new carb.