Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - Concrete and PVC
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Tweetot
05-27-07, 11:56 PM
Will concrete cure properly when poured into a 4" PVC pipe that is driven into the ground?
Thanks,
Tweetot
Thanks,
Tweetot
Pecos
05-28-07, 04:25 AM
Yes. It certainly will.
PYZON
05-28-07, 10:26 AM
Yep, even under water.
mitch17
05-28-07, 10:40 AM
OK, you have my curiosity piqued - what are you doing with this?
Tweetot
05-31-07, 10:22 AM
Hi Mitch,
The soil in my pond bottom (clay) is much too hard to economically drive any piling or similar support into it. I myself can however drive 4" PVC pipe with a sharpened edge. I will drive the pipe 2' into the clay, pump out the water, insert proper length rebar rods down the center with a wire frame of about 3" diameter and then pour concrete in. The PVC is more of a permanent form. Might I also add that before sinking the posts I am going to insert rebar 2' above the bottom of each PVC post through the PVC protruding 6" out at 90 degree angles. Here I will pour a 3" thick 16" diameter concrete ring that will prevent any further settling of the posts. The posts will be done in pairs 3' apart. Cross bracing will be conducted by placing 1/2" stainless pipe through the PVC 1' above the ring and 3" below the top before the concrete is poured. Bolts will pass through the pipes which will act a bushings and the cross braces will be attached. I have to make a 160' run over water from 3' to 7' deep so we can walk to our fishing platform on my 4.5 acre pond. I figure 32 posts. The platform was there already when I bought the property and is accessible by boat only for now.
This might seem like a lot of work? The fact is I have the PVC, wire, rebar, stainless pipe, and a good bit of cement, sand and gravel. I only need to purchase the wood for the actual run and the cross braces. Pile driving is prohibitive in cost, ditto steel construction. A floating bridge was considered but then cost again was much higher.
My 13 year old had a good idea. He said sink an 8" steel I beam into the bottom sticking up about 10 feet above the water and another one on shore. Attach heavy duty sheaves to these with a 3/8" steel cable between them and a boatswain's chair on the cable. Then we could ride out to the platform. Cost would be no problem since I have the steel and cable, but the wife said she wouldn't be gracing the platform unless she went by boat. :-)
Thanks for the interest,
Tweetot
The soil in my pond bottom (clay) is much too hard to economically drive any piling or similar support into it. I myself can however drive 4" PVC pipe with a sharpened edge. I will drive the pipe 2' into the clay, pump out the water, insert proper length rebar rods down the center with a wire frame of about 3" diameter and then pour concrete in. The PVC is more of a permanent form. Might I also add that before sinking the posts I am going to insert rebar 2' above the bottom of each PVC post through the PVC protruding 6" out at 90 degree angles. Here I will pour a 3" thick 16" diameter concrete ring that will prevent any further settling of the posts. The posts will be done in pairs 3' apart. Cross bracing will be conducted by placing 1/2" stainless pipe through the PVC 1' above the ring and 3" below the top before the concrete is poured. Bolts will pass through the pipes which will act a bushings and the cross braces will be attached. I have to make a 160' run over water from 3' to 7' deep so we can walk to our fishing platform on my 4.5 acre pond. I figure 32 posts. The platform was there already when I bought the property and is accessible by boat only for now.
This might seem like a lot of work? The fact is I have the PVC, wire, rebar, stainless pipe, and a good bit of cement, sand and gravel. I only need to purchase the wood for the actual run and the cross braces. Pile driving is prohibitive in cost, ditto steel construction. A floating bridge was considered but then cost again was much higher.
My 13 year old had a good idea. He said sink an 8" steel I beam into the bottom sticking up about 10 feet above the water and another one on shore. Attach heavy duty sheaves to these with a 3/8" steel cable between them and a boatswain's chair on the cable. Then we could ride out to the platform. Cost would be no problem since I have the steel and cable, but the wife said she wouldn't be gracing the platform unless she went by boat. :-)
Thanks for the interest,
Tweetot