Water Heaters - Water heater disconnect

Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.




View Full Version : Water heater disconnect


soup006
05-26-07, 08:38 AM
I am selling my house and the home inspector said this needs to be fixed:

"The hot water heater disconnect box does not have a cover plate. Recommend cover plate be installed. The spliced wires require wire nuts."

The water heater is 3 months old and is gas, not electric.
What could he mean?

Thanks


Who
05-26-07, 01:18 PM
Could you post a picture?

furd
05-26-07, 01:25 PM
If there was at one time an electric water heater the inspector is probably referring to the junction box for the wiring. If so, then simply attach wire nuts to the wires in the box and install a blank cover.

If there has never been an electric water heater then it could be that the inspector got his notes mixed up with another house.

I suggest you call the inspector for a clarification.


soup006
05-26-07, 03:15 PM
Thanks for the replies. Here is 3 pics. I already removed a cable run from the box which had the spliced wires. It was not hot anymore anyway. If this is what he is talking about, it does have a door covering it.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb223/soup006/IMG_3066.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb223/soup006/IMG_3065.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb223/soup006/IMG_3064.jpg

adamplghtg
05-26-07, 03:26 PM
That box is on the 'on' position. Does it go anywhere else? The inspector might want the feed wires wired nutted to someone won't get shocked if they put their hands in there.

soup006
05-26-07, 04:22 PM
I only see the top two feed wires and then the one white romex which goes to a junction box somewhere else and only one older non grounded wiring comes out. I turned the box to the 'off' position and test outlets and lights. Everything works as far as I can tell. Can I even get a cover plate that will fit over something like that which already has a door, if I removed the door? \

I guess this isn't really plumbing related anymore.

furd
05-26-07, 05:52 PM
I see a non-metallic cable and a green wire incorrectly leaving the switch from the lower right side. The non-metallic cable coming into the switch on the top left is the feed and the non-metallic cable leaving the top on the right is a load.

The single green wire coming out on the lower right is connected to the neutral bar inside the switch, this is definitely wrong.

I cannot clearly see the wires in the bottom of the switch box but there is obviously something not quite correct.

Using a two-wire neon bulb electrical test carefully check for power between the two top outside terminals. Next check for power between each outside terminal and the center terminal. If there is no power from any of these tests then the power to this switch has been disconnected. If you do get power then you MUST either find and permanently disconnect the source or at the very least correct the wiring mistakes I have previously mentioned along with any mistakes that I cannot see from the supplied pictures.

soup006
05-27-07, 09:18 AM
But what could the inspector have meant about needing a cover plate too? Is the door over that box not ok?

Also, if I wanted to just replaced that whole box and wire it correctly, what kind of small box should I replace it with? I have already determined that the other wire leaving the top went to an outlet that was removed and wire nuts were put on the wires so I do not need to reattach this cable.

soup006
05-27-07, 11:13 AM
I've determined that the bottom cable leading out of the box runs to a junction box and has been disconnected and capped with wire nuts. This really only leaves the main feeder cable. Can I just remove the whole box, put in a junction box, and run the feeder cable into it and cap the wires? I would rather not add to the expense of removing the feeder cable.

furd
05-27-07, 12:42 PM
If all the circuits being fed by this switch have been abandoned then yes, you can (and in my opinion should) remove the load wiring and the switch.

Install a junction box and properly install the feeder cable (using a proper box clamp) and then screw wire nuts onto the unstripped ends of the wires. Install the proper cover on the junction box.

It is best to remove all of the unused load cables.

I suspect what the inspector may have had in mind are the cable openings in the switch box. They make filler plates for these small holes. You could just remove the load wires from the switch and then install the small filler plates. If you do this label the switch as "abandoned in place".