Doors and Windows - Can't Figger Out How to Remove Sliding Glass Door

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Pipsisiwah
05-23-07, 08:41 PM
The door is type X0, and the slider is vertically so snug that I can't raise it high enough in its frame to slip the bottom out of the frame track. This is a double-pane door, vintage ca. 1982.

The only way I can see to remove the slider is to disassemble the frame somehow.

Don't know if I should work from the inside of the room (the slider side) or the outside (the fixed pane).

I don't have a clue, can somebody here give me one or steer me in the right direction for help?


XSleeper
05-23-07, 08:51 PM
Its hard to give you anything specific without seeing it... but here's a few general pointers:

First, find the roller adjustment screw. On aluminum doors, you usually need a long #3 screwdriver, stuck under the sides of the door near the bottom of the rails where there is a small slot. You would usually turn the screwdriver counterclockwise to lower the rollers. This might lower the door sufficiently so that you have enough clearance on top to get the door out.

Usually the slider comes out to the inside, and the fixed panel toward the outside. But I wouldnt be suprised if some are different. If your floor coverings are higher than the track of the patio door, you've got a problem. Often, those old aluminum doors are difficult to get out- it takes 2 pry bars, 2 thin putty knives, 4 arms and quite a bit of cussing to get them out. Not sure if the cussing helps or not.

Pipsisiwah
05-23-07, 11:35 PM
>>Often, those old aluminum doors are difficult to get out- it takes 2 pry bars, 2 thin putty knives, 4 arms and quite a bit of cussing to get them out. Not sure if the cussing helps or not.<<

Understood.

Is it at least easier to get the thing back in again???

I'll take a look tomorrow when it's light and look for the adjuster screws. The rollers are broken and need to be replaced - that's why I have to remove the door.


Just Bill
05-24-07, 04:53 PM
What sleeper said, there are adjustment screws for the rollers, either in the ends of the door or behind a plug on the side of the door.

MasterBlaster
05-25-07, 02:57 AM
New guy here, first post.

- Hey, welcome to the forums.
- Yeah, welcome and have fun!
- If I knew you were coming, I'd have baked a cake!!

Aw, shucks, thanks a lot, guys.
(There, I got that cr*p out of the way for you)

Are there any owner-installed "security" screws above the slider?
They're often big sheet-metal screws driven into the frame just enough to barely clear the top of the door so it still slides, but low enough to prevent any intruder from prying the door up out of the track. That's if the roller adjustments don't work.

Pipsisiwah
05-25-07, 08:47 AM
Nope. No screws in the upper frame. Have an adjustment screw at the bottom at one end, probably also at the other end but can't see it 'cause the War Dept has a big closet there that has to be emptied and moved a bit.

The gaps between the door top and bottom and the upper and lower frame rails are nearly equal, so this is going to be a challenge. If I'm lucky something will break and I can install a brand new up-to-date window with decent locks and sliding screen...

Pipsisiwah
06-04-07, 01:53 PM
Upon closer inspection, the "adjustment" screws (panheads about 1/2-inch in dia.) don't do anything but come out. They are in the ends of the door and above the lower edge of the glass insert.

It's a moot point, because the bottom of the slider is resting on the center track (and gouging it as well) on the bottom of the frame and I still do not have enough clearance at the top of the door to tip it out and away from the frame.

I tried raising the door up until the top of it hit the top of the frame, but then the bottom of the door is not high enough to clear the frame.

Any other suggestions?? A new door will cost me around $800 plus delivery but minus installation, and on a fixed income that's going to be a bit much.

chandler
06-04-07, 04:03 PM
The screws you took out were the screws that hold the frame together. Put them back. The screws referred to earlier are recessed in holes in the frame. I have always used a #2 phillips to access them, but some may require different size. You should be working at the top of the door for now, since it seems to be holding everything up. Is there any space above the door, between it and the frame?

Woodbutcher
06-04-07, 04:47 PM
Hi, Sure sounds like a problem but I'd bet that the installer put in the frame then installed the door.Could Be the header worped.. When you lift the door does the top of the door go up against the frame? Have you tried to slide the door to the open side then lift the door? Is there channel metal snapped in the top channel to prevent you from removing the door?If all ese fails you could move the door to the open side then mark it and cut away enough of the edge of the bottom track to pull the door out.
Good Luck Woodbutcher

Pipsisiwah
06-04-07, 10:59 PM
>> Is there any space above the door, between it and the frame?<<

Yes, about 1/8 inch or so. But the bottom of the slider needs to come up about 3/8 inch to clear the bottom rail. That's the problem. I can only lift the slider up 1/8 inch before it hits the top rail and at that position the bottom of the slider still needs another 1/4 inch to clear.

Can't lower the slider at all - it's bottomed out on the rail.

Pipsisiwah
06-05-07, 10:13 AM
You can view a drawing of the problem at:

http://home.bresnan.net/~pipsisiwah/various/patio door and frame problem.jpg

XSleeper
06-05-07, 05:25 PM
Pipsisiwah,

I looked at your pics... It looks to me like you need to remove the fixed panel first, then the interior panel will come out toward the outside, bottom first.

A similar thread is at:

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/album?c=klopfewr&aid=576460762403472275&pid=&wtok=eHYpGPFsKPttABWDzXsJCA--&ts=1180806984&.src=ph

It might also give some ideas if the top of your door is bowed down.

Pipsisiwah
06-05-07, 06:51 PM
Oops, looks like you gave me the url of the man with the fence/HOA problem.

XSleeper
06-05-07, 08:11 PM
DOH. Not sure how that happened. Must not have hit ctrl-c like I thought I did!

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=302537

At any rate, I'm pretty sure you'll need to remove the fixed sash, and possibly a snap in cover (in the top of the frame) that you will need to remove- I think it's pictured... its that part in the top of the frame that keeps the fixed panel on the fixed side of the frame, not allowing it to slide over. Once that snap in cover is removed, and that keeper screw, the fixed sash should pull to the center and come out. Then the sldiing panel should lift up and the bottom should pull out to the exterior.

Like I mentioned before, you'd want to lower the rollers- did you ever find the adjustment to do that? Is it the lower (smaller) screw head? If you lower the rollers you will have more clearance on top which will enable you to lift the door up and off the track. It definately does not come out over the interior lip, it comes out toward the exterior. Which means the fixed panel has to come out to get the sliding door out.