Doors and Windows - Replacing door with pocket door
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VMH
05-17-07, 02:25 PM
Hello: I have read some of the other posts regarding installing a pocket door and it has raised a few more questions for me. I would like to replace the door between the laundry room and kitchen. The wall for the pocket door is made of wood studs and sheet rock, with no plumbing or electrical. (I went in the basement and looked to see where wires and pipes went into this area) The wall to the side of the door is about 50" from the edge of the existing door trim to the first storage cabinet. We have a 30" x 1 1/4" door that I would like to recycle as the pocket door itself. Is that possible?
Secondly, we will be putting down tile in laundry room, kitchen entry from garage and kitchen bathroom and all these areas intersect where the pocket door will be. The floor is currently wood. I am presuming that the wood will need to be removed so that the tile height will be approximately level with wood floor that will remain further into the kitchen? Should the tile be laid first before the pocket door conversion?
Thanks.
Secondly, we will be putting down tile in laundry room, kitchen entry from garage and kitchen bathroom and all these areas intersect where the pocket door will be. The floor is currently wood. I am presuming that the wood will need to be removed so that the tile height will be approximately level with wood floor that will remain further into the kitchen? Should the tile be laid first before the pocket door conversion?
Thanks.
Just Bill
05-17-07, 04:55 PM
If this is not a load bearing wall, installation is not too difficult. If it is, you need to add a header to carry the load above, just an extra step. Use Johnson hardware, the best I have found. Follow directions with the hardware and it should be easy----for a fairly good DIY'er.
The subfloor for a tile floor must be very stiff and solid, min 1 1/4 of wood, mud is better. Where ever the floor level ends up, is what it is. You may need a transition threshold. Do the tile after the door opening changes are done.
The subfloor for a tile floor must be very stiff and solid, min 1 1/4 of wood, mud is better. Where ever the floor level ends up, is what it is. You may need a transition threshold. Do the tile after the door opening changes are done.
chandler
05-18-07, 04:37 AM
I agree with Just Bill on using the Johnson stuff. Stanley makes a system, but you have to put it together, cut to fit, and get frustrated. The Johnson system is complete, slide in, nail up, framing system.
VMH
05-21-07, 10:56 AM
Thanks Bill & Larry, I went out to Johnson's Hardware site and it appears the standard size will work for my laundry room. One clarification please...I CAN use the old hollow-core door that is currently there on the Johnson Hardware???? The door is in good shape and the style matches all the other doors in the house, so I would like to keep it.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Just Bill
05-21-07, 04:31 PM
You can use anyhting you like for a door blank. The hardware is designed for heavy doors, but hollow core is easy.