Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Deck ledger attachment problem
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CascadeClimber
04-30-07, 10:47 AM
Howdy, all. I'm replacing an old backyard deck and have a problem with the ledger-house attachment. The original builder nailed the ledger to the bottom plank of L-P siding (no flashing, and no attachment to the house framing). Surprisingly, that held for 17 years, but I'm not about to repeat it. I want to attach the ledger more securely, and in a way that doesn't cover the existing siding. (I'm going to replace the siding later this year -- can't afford to do it now -- and I don't want to trap any L-P below the deck).
The options that come to my mind are:
Option 1: Cut back the siding just enough to expose the framing sill plate, fasten the ledger to that, and install a Z flashing. (But I'm nervous about exposing the framing of the house itself and don't know whether a Z flashing is adequate to protect it -- or whether Z flashing even comes in the right size -- do they come in 1" offsets? That's how big it would need to be);
Option 2: Attach the ledger to the concrete footing below the siding, using expansion bolts, with no attachment to wood at all. (Concern: I've never drilled, or fastened anything directly, to concrete before and don't know how much work it would take or how strong/trustworthy the result would be); or
Option 3: Replace the lowest course of L-P with one course of HardiPlank, and nail through that into the sill plate (so the sider could come along later and st start his work with the course above that, without disturbing the deck) -- but I don't know how I would go about replacing just the bottom course of siding without disturbing the courses above it.
Are there better options, or is one of the above best, or ??? Reading this forum has been invaluable to me in repainting kitchen cabinets in the same house -- I'm hoping you can work the same magic with this one! Thanks for your help.
The options that come to my mind are:
Option 1: Cut back the siding just enough to expose the framing sill plate, fasten the ledger to that, and install a Z flashing. (But I'm nervous about exposing the framing of the house itself and don't know whether a Z flashing is adequate to protect it -- or whether Z flashing even comes in the right size -- do they come in 1" offsets? That's how big it would need to be);
Option 2: Attach the ledger to the concrete footing below the siding, using expansion bolts, with no attachment to wood at all. (Concern: I've never drilled, or fastened anything directly, to concrete before and don't know how much work it would take or how strong/trustworthy the result would be); or
Option 3: Replace the lowest course of L-P with one course of HardiPlank, and nail through that into the sill plate (so the sider could come along later and st start his work with the course above that, without disturbing the deck) -- but I don't know how I would go about replacing just the bottom course of siding without disturbing the courses above it.
Are there better options, or is one of the above best, or ??? Reading this forum has been invaluable to me in repainting kitchen cabinets in the same house -- I'm hoping you can work the same magic with this one! Thanks for your help.
CascadeClimber
04-30-07, 01:57 PM
I should also explain that the top of the original ledger board was roughly flush with the top of the concrete foundation -- and if I raise it much higher, it'll be higher than the interior floor. (No, I can't figure out where they put the floor joists! House was built in 1990.... ) So Option 1 involves getting a new ledger board that's 2" wider than the original -- adding just enough that I can get lag bolts into the sill plate -- but still placing the joist hangers at their original height, 2" below the top of the new ledger.
Also, because I know some people prefer this option: making it freestanding would be tough, because there's a bay in the middle, so I'd need to install multiple piers to follow the contour of the house, and since I'm using joist hangers instead of stacking the joists on top of the supports, I can't cantilever the joist a little bit to close that small space between the piers and the house.
Also, because I know some people prefer this option: making it freestanding would be tough, because there's a bay in the middle, so I'd need to install multiple piers to follow the contour of the house, and since I'm using joist hangers instead of stacking the joists on top of the supports, I can't cantilever the joist a little bit to close that small space between the piers and the house.