Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Range hood vent through rim joist?
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picketthouse
04-30-07, 08:33 AM
Hello All--
I posted this in the Ducting Systems section, but it may be better to ask the kitchen pros--
I'm running a 6" duct for a range hood and I want to know if I can cut a hole in the rim joist in order to exhaust to the outside. The joist I need to cut is not the one at the cap end of all the ceiling joists--I need to cut through a rim joist that is parallel to the ceiling joists. (I can't reach the end of the joist bay because a beam is in the way.) It's a 2x8, continuously supported by a stud wall, with no windows, doors or beams directly over the spot where the hole needs to be. Can I cut a 6" hole in it?
This shows the situation almost exactly:
http://homepage.mac.com/cweinard/rimjoist2.jpg
The range is on the ground floor of a 2 story house, on an interior wall. A single story bathroom is immediately behind the range. I'll need to go up into the ceiling, turn left and run between the joists for 4ft, then turn right out the rim joist to the exterior. (The only other option is to go through the wall directly behind the range, into the bathroom, and out the bathroom wall to the outside--would require a longer run and two 90 degree turns separated by only a few inches--something the installation guide says is a no-no--not to mention 2 big holes and a new soffit.)
I've seen in several other places that it's ok to cut through a rim joist on the cap end--I just want to make sure that it's ok to do on the parallel joist too.
Thanks in advance--this forum is a great help!
I posted this in the Ducting Systems section, but it may be better to ask the kitchen pros--
I'm running a 6" duct for a range hood and I want to know if I can cut a hole in the rim joist in order to exhaust to the outside. The joist I need to cut is not the one at the cap end of all the ceiling joists--I need to cut through a rim joist that is parallel to the ceiling joists. (I can't reach the end of the joist bay because a beam is in the way.) It's a 2x8, continuously supported by a stud wall, with no windows, doors or beams directly over the spot where the hole needs to be. Can I cut a 6" hole in it?
This shows the situation almost exactly:
http://homepage.mac.com/cweinard/rimjoist2.jpg
The range is on the ground floor of a 2 story house, on an interior wall. A single story bathroom is immediately behind the range. I'll need to go up into the ceiling, turn left and run between the joists for 4ft, then turn right out the rim joist to the exterior. (The only other option is to go through the wall directly behind the range, into the bathroom, and out the bathroom wall to the outside--would require a longer run and two 90 degree turns separated by only a few inches--something the installation guide says is a no-no--not to mention 2 big holes and a new soffit.)
I've seen in several other places that it's ok to cut through a rim joist on the cap end--I just want to make sure that it's ok to do on the parallel joist too.
Thanks in advance--this forum is a great help!
chandler
04-30-07, 03:19 PM
Are the walls already finished? If not, you can check to see if your hole will be directly over a stud, and if not install a small header with jack studs. You don't want to create a weak point in the wall, since it is load bearing. And you will be removing 90% of the wood, so there will be virtually no support below it.
Ed Imeduc
04-30-07, 03:44 PM
Out of the box here. But I take it you will only cut the hole in the rim joist that is set on the outside wall plate. Go for it. You also might want to look into a wall damper 3 1/4"X 10" for it to go into the rim joist . Get a 90o boot 3 1/4"x10" to a 6" round and round pipe to the fan.
picketthouse
05-01-07, 06:57 AM
Chandler--Yes, the walls are finished--we're in the middle of a kitchen remodel. I know--seems like an awfully big hole in that ceiling joist. The wall that continuously supports the joist from below, however, will remain intact. Seems like the big question is the second story wall above the hole--I need to make sure there's not a stud in the wall directly above where the hole in the joist would be. Sounds like that might be what you're saying--
Ed--That transtion sounds like a good plan. The trick will be fitting an elbow and a transition within the space of that joist bay. Is there such a thing as a right-angle transition from 6" round to 3.25x10 rect.? Any suggestions on where to find it? Thanks so much--
Ed--That transtion sounds like a good plan. The trick will be fitting an elbow and a transition within the space of that joist bay. Is there such a thing as a right-angle transition from 6" round to 3.25x10 rect.? Any suggestions on where to find it? Thanks so much--
Ed Imeduc
05-01-07, 08:51 AM
Is there such a thing as a right-angle transition from 6" round to 3.25x10 rect.? Any suggestions on where to find it?
You got it. It makes the right angle so you will have a 6" down.Any hvac or furnace company would have them . Also if you can buy from Grainger they have the wall flipper . I have seen them in home depot. If you need more 3.25X10 duct that is a made up wall stack. They all have that. ;)
You got it. It makes the right angle so you will have a 6" down.Any hvac or furnace company would have them . Also if you can buy from Grainger they have the wall flipper . I have seen them in home depot. If you need more 3.25X10 duct that is a made up wall stack. They all have that. ;)