Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - stucco wall with wood frame

I'm new here so I hope this is posted in the right place. Please move it if not!
I want to construct a stucco wall that will surround my newly remodeled house. I have about 300 ft of yard to wall in. At this point the cost of doing this with all concrete block is probably prohibitive for me. I have seen some walls constructed in my area that consist of a concrete footing and a wood frame with pressure treated lumber for anything that touches the ground or the concrete footing. Also, if I remember correctly they constructed columns made from block about the thickness and height of the wall itself. These columns were about 8 or 10 feet apart and I believe that they were put in for some added stability. A plywood frame was put in between the columns and then stucco felt paper and wire was installed over the frame followed by 2 coats of stucco. Walls were about 4-5 feet high and 2 coats of stucco were applied. I live in an area that has pretty mild winters (northern CA) and little or no freezing. Any advice on this type of wall construction or am I just asking for trouble?

Right now you are just guessing and speculating.

Contact your municipality and find out what is acceaptable and what the standards are.

Then, contract a couple of contractors to get prices for different methods. This will give you relative prices to compare the systems. After that, you can concentrate on whether to completely do it yourself, partially do it yourself oe have a contractor do it. In the process you will be asked questions and be given comments on what is right and wrong (only a contractors opinion).

Dick

If capped and flashed correctly, you can do that, but I wouldn't make bets that it will be. The cost (done correctly) isn't much different than CMU anyway.

Thanks! that was good advice concretemasonary. I've had 2 appointments with contractors and two more are scheduled. I got an estimate with strictly CMU and one with a wood frame. Interestingly, the contractor who quoted the wood frame said he would not use plywood at all. That it would ultimately crack because of changes in temperature and possible warping. He would use PT 2 x 8 lumber (somewhat like the studs in a wall) between concrete block columns. He said he would put addtional support under the lower horizontal stringer so that there was no sag. He also said that a footing (as in the Concrete block version) around the base of the wall could be problematic because I have several large pine trees and the roots could eventually wind up pushing up the footing and the wall.

Also, thanks for your feedback Tscarborough. I would like to know what is your definition of capped and flashed correctly?


TIA, ahomeowner

The issue is that any amount of water that makes it's way behind the cementious stucco to the wood will cause swelling, hence cracking, which allows more water, etc, to the quick demise of the structure.

By cap, mean a solid or lapped material that both does not allow water to penetrate through the top surface of the wall and diverts it from running down the face via an overhang and drip. Since you can not have a continuous cap for 300', you will have joints in the cap. Thus, the cap must be flashed to prevent moisture from penetrating through the cap joints.

Here is a quick sketch to show the parts and placement:

http://5124310870.com/stuccofence.jpg

(cut and paste into your browser address bar)

Tscarborough, thank you!! Very simple but very logical and understandable!!

Tscarborough, I thought of some questions I would like to ask about your drawing:
1. what material is the cap and flashing?
2. how are they secured to the wood frame?

Also, I am not a computer person. how did you put the drawing out where I could see it? Very, very clever!

ahomeowner

The cap can be anything you want, but is usually of concrete. So long as it provides the protection, it doesn't matter. One thing not shown on that sketch is the desired angle of the top surface, BTW.

The flashing should be either metal or at least 20 mil vinyl.

Other than in earthquake country, there does not need to be a mechanical attachment. That is, the flashing is laid directly on the top of the wall (and may be self adhesive), and the cap is mortared into place on top of the flashing. For shaky reqions, consult an engineer as to the whole concept of your wall.