Patching and Plastering - comparison of different plaster methods
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nap
04-07-07, 06:40 PM
after reading a thread about a lath and plaster wall repair, I did a little research and it brought up some questions I would love to have the plaster pros input on.
from what I can see, there are 4 basic methods to cover the studs of a wall.
1. lath (either wood strips or more modern metal mesh) and 3 coats of plaster
2. gypsum lath and a 2 coat plaster application
3. blue board and 1 coat veneer plaster
4. drywall
Obviously drywall is the most common used today but it leaves much to be desired in my opinion. No matter how skilled the taper is, there are visible joints. I am admittedly a bit anal about the flatness of the wall so that really tends to bother me. It seems drywall does not finish out as nicely as veneer plaster. There always seems to be a texture from the paper left.
Now if the 3 plaster methods. veneer obviously would be the least labor intensive but still offer a smooth hard finish. Not being knowledgable in this area, my questions are basically about the veneer type of application.
I have dealt with plaster walls before but I do not know which type is was, #2 or #3. (I've also dealt with lath so I know it wasn't metal or wood lath). The walls seemed to be very rigid and solid feeling and did not give as a drywall wall does. Does the blueboard and veneer feel this way or is it more flexible like drywall?
I liked the feel and look very much and would like to employ it in a building but I am at a loss as to how to determine which it was and if the veneer would offer me the look and feel I am looking for.
Is there any downside to the veneer plaster method?
Thanks to any and all that can lend advice.
from what I can see, there are 4 basic methods to cover the studs of a wall.
1. lath (either wood strips or more modern metal mesh) and 3 coats of plaster
2. gypsum lath and a 2 coat plaster application
3. blue board and 1 coat veneer plaster
4. drywall
Obviously drywall is the most common used today but it leaves much to be desired in my opinion. No matter how skilled the taper is, there are visible joints. I am admittedly a bit anal about the flatness of the wall so that really tends to bother me. It seems drywall does not finish out as nicely as veneer plaster. There always seems to be a texture from the paper left.
Now if the 3 plaster methods. veneer obviously would be the least labor intensive but still offer a smooth hard finish. Not being knowledgable in this area, my questions are basically about the veneer type of application.
I have dealt with plaster walls before but I do not know which type is was, #2 or #3. (I've also dealt with lath so I know it wasn't metal or wood lath). The walls seemed to be very rigid and solid feeling and did not give as a drywall wall does. Does the blueboard and veneer feel this way or is it more flexible like drywall?
I liked the feel and look very much and would like to employ it in a building but I am at a loss as to how to determine which it was and if the veneer would offer me the look and feel I am looking for.
Is there any downside to the veneer plaster method?
Thanks to any and all that can lend advice.
marksr
04-08-07, 05:34 AM
I'm not a plaster pro but I have painted LOTS of new construction walls. In the last 30 yrs or so the only new construction plaster I've painted has been plaster veneer over blue board. The only advantage I know that drywall has over blue board/plaster is price.
It is possible to lightly skim coat a drywall job and eliminate the "texture" difference between the finished joints and the paper. I've only seen this done a few times in new homes - usually it is left up to the painter to make the walls "perfect" While a paint job can make or break a drywall job, it's easier to get a good paint job when you have a good wall finish.
It is possible to lightly skim coat a drywall job and eliminate the "texture" difference between the finished joints and the paper. I've only seen this done a few times in new homes - usually it is left up to the painter to make the walls "perfect" While a paint job can make or break a drywall job, it's easier to get a good paint job when you have a good wall finish.
nap
04-08-07, 09:06 AM
It is possible to lightly skim coat a drywall job and eliminate the "texture" difference between the finished joints and the paper. I've only seen this done a few times in new homes - usually it is left up to the painter to make the walls "perfect" While a paint job can make or break a drywall job, it's easier to get a good paint job when you have a good wall finish.
I've heard that referred to as a "level 5" finish. Don;t know what it refers to exactly but that is what the mudders said they do when the wall is required to be very high quality.
The problem I see with that is the mud they use is softer than veneer plaster and more susceptible to humidity. (which shouldn't be there anyway but it obviously can be)
Is blue board more rigid than typical drywall? The walls I have run across almost "ring" when tapped from the hardness.
I've heard that referred to as a "level 5" finish. Don;t know what it refers to exactly but that is what the mudders said they do when the wall is required to be very high quality.
The problem I see with that is the mud they use is softer than veneer plaster and more susceptible to humidity. (which shouldn't be there anyway but it obviously can be)
Is blue board more rigid than typical drywall? The walls I have run across almost "ring" when tapped from the hardness.