Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - I want to put in a paved driveway...Easy or difficult?

I want to put in a paved driveway...Easy or difficult?

i am low skilled. It seems easy enough to pave a driveway however i have been warned it is actually difficult. So i am puzzled if i should do it or not. Any advice? Presently where i park my car in my driveway, the mud gets to be about 5 inches or more thick during wet weather so "maybe", even if i do a bad job of putting in a paved driveway it might be better than nothing.

Paved with what? Asphalt, concrete, concrete pavers, etc.? The only one of the above that is likely do-able for a DIY project is pavers. Concrete is possible if you've got the know-how, but most DIYers cannot tackle a large concrete job. Asphalt requires heavy equipment such as spreading machines, rollers, etc. that you may possibly be able to rent somewhere...but I doubt it.

Paved with what? Asphalt, concrete, concrete pavers, etc.? The only one of the above that is likely do-able for a DIY project is pavers. Concrete is possible if you've got the know-how, but most DIYers cannot tackle a large concrete job. Asphalt requires heavy equipment such as spreading machines, rollers, etc. that you may possibly be able to rent somewhere...but I doubt it.



Presently, my driveway turns into about 5 inches deep mud this time of year. I am looking for a solution, for skills i can mow a pretty good lawn, i own very few machines. I probably would not know the difference between concrete and asphalt if i was looking at both of them

Concrete is light gray and contains cement. Asphalt is black and contains tar. Not meaning to sound condescending, but if you don't know the difference between these two, then Doing It Yourself is not even an option.

You may want to start with improving the drainage in your driveway - you may even find excavators who are very good at this. Next, try having some road base delivered - you just spread it out with a metal rake. Nearly everyone in our area deals with muddy driveways this time of year (which is why Spring is nicknamed "Mud Season") but many of the issues can be resolved with good grading and some road base.

In my opinion, the cost of hiring a skilled concrete finisher has proven to be the cheaper portion of an entire project like yours. I always remind anyone thinking of doing their own concrete job, "concrete is forever and a monument to your stupidity should you screw it up". "Logcabincook" has a good idea!

trust me, i have envisoned giant blocks of concrete going this way,and that way after i got done.

About having "some road base delivered" and raking it out. That sounds easy enough ..and i assume the first step in putting in a paved driveway.

What type of "road base" should i buy and use? perhaps i can do this and hold off the paving part for another time.

Call around to gravel yards or even large landscaping suppliers and ask about their road base. They may call it something else (I think someone called it "sifted fines" or something) but they should know what you are talking about. It's also used for the base layer in paver patios. Describe the size of your driveway and they should be able to give you an estimate on how much base you are looking for.

A word of foresight: this may not be a "permanent" solution. Road base settles into the mud, and can become pretty much cemented into place, but in some situations it will sink so much the mud will ooze back over that layer and you may have to put down more in the future. This is the reason you grade first - muddier areas (potholes) will require more road base than others, and it will settle more right away. Start with a clean, flat, graded area so the base goes down in an even layer. Observe the sage advice - prep work makes or breaks the project :-)

Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

You should definitely dig out the really mucky stuff down to a somewhat firm and level grade as the previous post suggests. Then cover the area with black landscaping fabric (aka weed-block) this will help to prevent the gravel from sinking into the mud. Start with a layer (6") of number 3 limestone - this is fist sized angular gravel - no fun to spread but it will also help to minimize any sinking into the mud. The top layer should be about 3 or 4 inches of number 2A limestone (sometimes called 2A modified) - this has the fine limestone dust that will lock the whole thing together. As mentioned this will not last forever but may tide you over till you can line up that paving contractor.

(i am much more educated what to do now, what paving a driveway entails)