Kitchen Gas Appliances - Magic Chef oven 6498VRV
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jrc0109
03-11-07, 12:13 PM
Magic Chef gas oven model number 6496VRV. The oven does not get as hot as it should. With a thermometer, the temperature is about 150 degrees lower than the oven setting.
At 350 degree setting, the thermometer registered only 200. At a 500 setting the oven thermometer was showing about 350.
The thermostat was replaced but did not correct the problem.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
jrc0109
At 350 degree setting, the thermometer registered only 200. At a 500 setting the oven thermometer was showing about 350.
The thermostat was replaced but did not correct the problem.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
jrc0109
DaVeBoy
03-11-07, 01:16 PM
It HAS to be the thermostat if it is mounted in it's correct location in the oven, usually at the top side of the oven or top rear. That is..if you replaced the whole oven control switch (with the thermostat attached). Even if you have an adjustable temperature knob (some have this feature and some do not)...if that thing came loose and swung the complete wrong way...you can't get a 150 degree adjustment out of them. Only 25-50 tops, I think.
If I were you, I would first buy another oven testing thermometer to make sure THAT isn't the bulk of your problem. You could have had a real problem...say the oven was off a little. But then your testing thermometer may be indicating a worse condition than you actually have.
Or you cracked the small sending line of the new stat when you installed it.
If I were you, I would first buy another oven testing thermometer to make sure THAT isn't the bulk of your problem. You could have had a real problem...say the oven was off a little. But then your testing thermometer may be indicating a worse condition than you actually have.
Or you cracked the small sending line of the new stat when you installed it.
jrc0109
03-11-07, 02:27 PM
Only the thermostat was replaced. It is mounted in it's correct location. I checked with a 2nd oven thermometer. The oven thermometer readings are very close to each other.
Sharp Advice
03-12-07, 08:49 AM
Hello jrc0109. Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic.
I seriously and highly doubt a new thermostat is pre-set incorrectly at the factory. Never encountered one to be that far off temperature.
More likely causes, based solely upon information you provided, can be improper heat distribution inside the oven. Maybe heat flow restricted by aluminum foil used to cover ovens inside surfaces and/or some large pan restricting up-wards heat flow and/or a defective gas valve and/or weak hot surface glow igniter, etc.
Cannot be a broken capillary tube. That is the tube connected to the thermostat. One piece assembly. If tube where cracked or broken, there would not be any heat control. Oven temp would be excessively HOT! Way over temp. Not cool (way below set temp) as you described.
Likely but not only possible causes noted above.
Retail parts dealers and appliance parts stores can also help determine what the possible problem may be based upon that specific brand and model. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Dealers and appliances parts stores are listed in the phone book.
Manufacturers Customer Help phone number in sticky note.
Read The Sticky Help Note In This Topic:
Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Sites. http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808
Regards and Good Luck.
Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
I seriously and highly doubt a new thermostat is pre-set incorrectly at the factory. Never encountered one to be that far off temperature.
More likely causes, based solely upon information you provided, can be improper heat distribution inside the oven. Maybe heat flow restricted by aluminum foil used to cover ovens inside surfaces and/or some large pan restricting up-wards heat flow and/or a defective gas valve and/or weak hot surface glow igniter, etc.
Cannot be a broken capillary tube. That is the tube connected to the thermostat. One piece assembly. If tube where cracked or broken, there would not be any heat control. Oven temp would be excessively HOT! Way over temp. Not cool (way below set temp) as you described.
Likely but not only possible causes noted above.
Retail parts dealers and appliance parts stores can also help determine what the possible problem may be based upon that specific brand and model. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Dealers and appliances parts stores are listed in the phone book.
Manufacturers Customer Help phone number in sticky note.
Read The Sticky Help Note In This Topic:
Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Sites. http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808
Regards and Good Luck.
Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
DaVeBoy
03-12-07, 06:27 PM
Sharp Advice is right about the broken capillary. I posted that remark of mine in haste knowing that SOMEthing is broke with the control.
I wanted to know if the whole oven control was replaced; you know, the part with the temperature readings on it, and not JUST the capilarry tube part. In cases with me, I can't just buy that even though they are often screwed on to the back of the control...but you never know.
I agree that the stat would not be that much out of adjustment out of the box. From my experience in new replacements (I have done many), they are about right on.
Regarding the foil. We line the bottoms of ovens all the time with foil and the reading are accurate unless the thermostat went out.
I started to print out a spiel about the two legs of electricity at the oven element and I scrapped it in favor of just saying this: You might want to test to make sure you have 220 at the oven element leads when you turn it on. Then, with it UNPLUGGED OR BREAKER OFF (not just the oven control turned off), and one lead disconnected off the back of the element... test the element with a test meter for ohms by touching the connector at the back of the element with one test lead and the other test lead put to the outer metal skin of the element. If you get any reading, you have a short in the element.
I wanted to know if the whole oven control was replaced; you know, the part with the temperature readings on it, and not JUST the capilarry tube part. In cases with me, I can't just buy that even though they are often screwed on to the back of the control...but you never know.
I agree that the stat would not be that much out of adjustment out of the box. From my experience in new replacements (I have done many), they are about right on.
Regarding the foil. We line the bottoms of ovens all the time with foil and the reading are accurate unless the thermostat went out.
I started to print out a spiel about the two legs of electricity at the oven element and I scrapped it in favor of just saying this: You might want to test to make sure you have 220 at the oven element leads when you turn it on. Then, with it UNPLUGGED OR BREAKER OFF (not just the oven control turned off), and one lead disconnected off the back of the element... test the element with a test meter for ohms by touching the connector at the back of the element with one test lead and the other test lead put to the outer metal skin of the element. If you get any reading, you have a short in the element.