Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - Kitchen Cabinet Repair
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jfrano
03-06-07, 10:13 AM
One of the oak cabinets in my kitchen has a 2in long crack on the front raised panel. I'll be refinishing them all and was wondering how I should handle this.
The crack does not currently have any depth to it. Would I be better of scrapping into the crack and filling with a matching wood filler..before or after clear stain/poly? Or is there a better option.
Thanks
The crack does not currently have any depth to it. Would I be better of scrapping into the crack and filling with a matching wood filler..before or after clear stain/poly? Or is there a better option.
Thanks
Just Bill
03-07-07, 05:07 AM
Panels in any type of door are supposed to float to allow for expansion/contraction seperate from the frame. When they can't move, they split. There is no cure other than taking the door apart, which is not easy. Minwax makes colored putties that may match, or you can find one that is close and mix other stains until you get a perfect match. But whatever you try it will likely show. Good luck!!!
clockdaddy
03-11-07, 09:23 PM
justBill is right...As long as the glue is holding the perimeter of the panel, it will continue to expand and contract at the point of least resistance which is now the crack.
If you decide you'd like to take the door apart there are a few things to be aware of. Check on the rear side of the doors to see if there are tiny pins (nails) that can be seen where the joints come together. When doors are fabricated, they are not normally left in the clamps long enough to dry. A pin gun (air nailer) is used to support the joint with a couple of the "nails" until the glue has time to dry. The "nails" are later sanded flush with the surface of the door. Removing these is difficult at best and will cause damage to the door at least.
A way to attempt to loosen the panel is to run a razor blade vertically between the panel and the frame. This will have to be done from and back, down to at least the depth of 1/2 inch...maybe 3/4 inch. If the panel is not loose after the razor cuts, pick the door up with one hand on each side of the panel and hit the bottom of the frame on a workbench or floor, very hard. That's right I said HIT IT .. What you will be attempting to do is to break the bond of the glue on the end grain of the panel allowing the panel to float. You may have to do this several times to the top and bottom of the door.If the panel doesn't break loose, you're stuck with what you had to begin with. If the panel breaks loose (as it does most of the time) then it becomes a matter of repairing the crack in the panel either by filling the crack or by attaching blocks to the back side of the panel on either side of the crack and gluing and clamping the panel back together. After it dries, remove the clamp and wood blocks and touch up the crack.
If you decide you'd like to take the door apart there are a few things to be aware of. Check on the rear side of the doors to see if there are tiny pins (nails) that can be seen where the joints come together. When doors are fabricated, they are not normally left in the clamps long enough to dry. A pin gun (air nailer) is used to support the joint with a couple of the "nails" until the glue has time to dry. The "nails" are later sanded flush with the surface of the door. Removing these is difficult at best and will cause damage to the door at least.
A way to attempt to loosen the panel is to run a razor blade vertically between the panel and the frame. This will have to be done from and back, down to at least the depth of 1/2 inch...maybe 3/4 inch. If the panel is not loose after the razor cuts, pick the door up with one hand on each side of the panel and hit the bottom of the frame on a workbench or floor, very hard. That's right I said HIT IT .. What you will be attempting to do is to break the bond of the glue on the end grain of the panel allowing the panel to float. You may have to do this several times to the top and bottom of the door.If the panel doesn't break loose, you're stuck with what you had to begin with. If the panel breaks loose (as it does most of the time) then it becomes a matter of repairing the crack in the panel either by filling the crack or by attaching blocks to the back side of the panel on either side of the crack and gluing and clamping the panel back together. After it dries, remove the clamp and wood blocks and touch up the crack.
chfite
03-12-07, 09:51 AM
Unless you are going to remove the panel to repair it, filling the surface crack after staining will be the best approach. Of course, leaving it as a battle scar has some appeal.
clockdaddy
03-12-07, 12:08 PM
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By attaching two blocks to the back side of the door, as I've attempted to show above, the crack can be glued and clamped an"should" close up the gap.
: .....l...... :
: l.... l......l :
:.................l.................. :
: ......l...... :
: l.....l.....l :
: l :
:......................................:
By attaching two blocks to the back side of the door, as I've attempted to show above, the crack can be glued and clamped an"should" close up the gap.