Painting - Problem with peeling paint on paneling
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plord
03-05-07, 07:10 AM
We painted the wood paneling walls in the kitchen this weekend, but it appears the paint didn't adhere like it should have, which is completely frustrating. The slightest bump on the wall leaves a scratch that reaches down to the paneling.
We prepped the walls well, or so I thought.
Sanded and primed, with two coats of paint.
We used latex primer and flat latex paint.
What is the problem?
Is there any product which can be used to help prevent the peeling?
I don't want all our hard work to be for nothing.
We prepped the walls well, or so I thought.
Sanded and primed, with two coats of paint.
We used latex primer and flat latex paint.
What is the problem?
Is there any product which can be used to help prevent the peeling?
I don't want all our hard work to be for nothing.
marksr
03-05-07, 08:33 AM
The primer is the most likely problem. It is best to use a solvent based primer over paneling.
Short of removing the paint and doing it right, there is a chance the paint might bond a little better as it cures. What brand of primer did you use?
Short of removing the paint and doing it right, there is a chance the paint might bond a little better as it cures. What brand of primer did you use?
slickshift
03-05-07, 09:29 AM
It was the latex primer
You need at minimum an oil-based primer for paneling
I'd suggest and prefer a pigmented shellac-based primer if at all possible
The shellac will guarantee adhesion, but it's very stinky, and requires plenty of fresh air and a respirator
If it's a large area it might not be the best choice because of this
The oil-based primer will most likely be fine, and is less odoriferous
(you'll still need fresh air though)
Don't skimp on the primer
Stick with Zinnser, Ben Moore, or Sherwin Williams
----inre: "Is there any product which can be used to help prevent the peeling?"
Sorry, no
As it was a primer problem, any loose paint/primer will have to be scraped off
Anything that is not adhering firmly will have to go
Then a good sanding will be needed
You won't have to remove the paneling's surface, but scuff it up, and smooth any (leftover) paint to paneling transitions
Then it should be cleaned properly(mostly to remove the dust at this point), using the products suggested for the particular primer you chose
If I thought it was clean, I might dust it with a tack cloth or dry-type swiffer
Then it will have to be primered and painted
You need at minimum an oil-based primer for paneling
I'd suggest and prefer a pigmented shellac-based primer if at all possible
The shellac will guarantee adhesion, but it's very stinky, and requires plenty of fresh air and a respirator
If it's a large area it might not be the best choice because of this
The oil-based primer will most likely be fine, and is less odoriferous
(you'll still need fresh air though)
Don't skimp on the primer
Stick with Zinnser, Ben Moore, or Sherwin Williams
----inre: "Is there any product which can be used to help prevent the peeling?"
Sorry, no
As it was a primer problem, any loose paint/primer will have to be scraped off
Anything that is not adhering firmly will have to go
Then a good sanding will be needed
You won't have to remove the paneling's surface, but scuff it up, and smooth any (leftover) paint to paneling transitions
Then it should be cleaned properly(mostly to remove the dust at this point), using the products suggested for the particular primer you chose
If I thought it was clean, I might dust it with a tack cloth or dry-type swiffer
Then it will have to be primered and painted
slickshift
03-05-07, 09:31 AM
...there is a chance the paint might bond a little better as it cures...
This is a possibility
You may want to wait a week before deciding to re-do it
This is a possibility
You may want to wait a week before deciding to re-do it
groundbeef
03-05-07, 05:36 PM
I would like to point out that both UMA by XIM,and PreRite Bonding Primer (SW) are both acceptable WATERBORNE primers for this situation.
BIN is also acceptable, but if the customer is sensative to solvent the above mentioned primers would more than suffice. UMA will bond to unsanded glass, and after adequate curing, it aint coming off.
PreRite is very good as well, but not quite as good as the UMA. UMA also has the distinction of being stable under epoxy coatings (solvent I might add). Even BIN will struggle under Epoxy.
However, as the OP indicated the job was this weekend. LEAVE IT ALONE. If you used the wrong primer, it won't adhere anyway. If you used a bonding primer, it will take time to bond (up to 28 days). If you used Latex Wall Primer, get out your putty knife and start scraping, and next time use the right primer. You did the right thing looking for help, and I hope next job, it goes smoother for you.
BIN is also acceptable, but if the customer is sensative to solvent the above mentioned primers would more than suffice. UMA will bond to unsanded glass, and after adequate curing, it aint coming off.
PreRite is very good as well, but not quite as good as the UMA. UMA also has the distinction of being stable under epoxy coatings (solvent I might add). Even BIN will struggle under Epoxy.
However, as the OP indicated the job was this weekend. LEAVE IT ALONE. If you used the wrong primer, it won't adhere anyway. If you used a bonding primer, it will take time to bond (up to 28 days). If you used Latex Wall Primer, get out your putty knife and start scraping, and next time use the right primer. You did the right thing looking for help, and I hope next job, it goes smoother for you.