Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Supporting Shower Control

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ProjectBrooklin
02-22-07, 02:55 PM
I am building a new bathroom in my basement and I am installing the shower control valve. I need to support the valve assembly between two studs and I can find a bracket for the job anywhere. I am using CPVC, so I need some form of rigid support.

Any ideas?


DaVeBoy
02-22-07, 06:10 PM
It seems to me that on the Moen valve body they have a spacer ring on the back side, that even if the pipes and valve body are unsecured back there...at least the spacer helps lock it to the shower wall itself, when the trim plate cover is screwed on the front of the shower wall. If your valve ever gets sticky, and you have a pull out/push in type of valve control, then the shower wall may flex some. (Not the worse thing in the world) But at least the thing will not be 'loose' per se. And if your control is the rotational control type such as a Posi-temp, then that issue then becomes moot as you will never have in and out force on the control handle or knob.

If you do desire to really 'anchor' the valve control or pipes to the studwork, then you will have to do so right at where the fittings go into the valve body for this to be effective with the flexible PVC.

ProjectBrooklin
02-23-07, 10:12 AM
That pretty much what I figured... thanks for the reply.

I am a little surprised that there isn't some kind of bracket for this.


DaVeBoy
02-23-07, 10:30 AM
They have such brackets actually...when doing copper piping. But yours is PVC and it would do no good clamping around PVC away from mixer. And because different mixers are different, there really isn't going to be some fit-all thing out there. It just has to be done like I mentioned.

ProjectBrooklin
02-23-07, 11:41 AM
I completely understand... too bad I am terified of copper :)

I think it will be ok, though. Thanks

DaVeBoy
02-23-07, 12:07 PM
And..I recently had to secure a shower arm that nobody bothered to secure in the wall. You can buy trim rings with set screws on them so that you can't shove the shower arm back...but that won't precvent it from being pulled toward you. It was a rental, so I chopped a hole in the plaster and secured the pipe with copper "U'" with a couple screws. Then I patched the wall hole by shooting spray foam into the cavity after I stuffed a little insulation down in there to keep it from running down. After it set up good in a day or two and dried, I carved off the excess foam and carved out 1/4-1/2 deep into it. Then mixed plaster Durobond hard-set mud and skimmed for the repair. I do these type of cobble jobs all the time and am very fast at it, and I make no bones about wall damages as I fix so many of them, small and large.

ProjectBrooklin
02-23-07, 12:11 PM
oh yea, i am sure I will come up with some sort of contraption. I have the luxury of having the back of the wall open as long as I want, so I can probably figure something out.

chandler
02-23-07, 07:04 PM
Just jumpin' in for the heck of it. If you are using a 2x4 wall, I usually span across the studs with a 1x6 to the back side. The control valve has two extra holes in it, and I just screw it to the 1x6 with 3/4" screws. You still have enough room to attach your cpvc pipes with male fittings to it. I install a 2x4 across the shower arm area to support the 90 degree shower ear, setting it back 1 1/2" from the front of the studs.

DaVeBoy
02-24-07, 01:07 PM
Chandler,...

...and anybody else; always feel free to jump in even if the thread has only been a back and forth between two people. :) Have a nice day. Just got in town...after being snowed in for a while. More on the way. :(