Flooring Tile - flexible tile squares

I have a 5x5 bathroom floor which has some high spots + slopes 5/8" to one side and 1/4" to the other.
I have already asked you and many sites about slc, sleepers, replacing the subfloor and leveling etc.
To save time trust me that only pulling the subfloor would do + I don't want to do that.
I saw some tile squares about an inch or so that are all attached to a piece that is about a foot square. When you pick this piece up it is flexible like the little squares were held together by wire.
I have a 3/4" subfloor covered with vinyl.
Is it possible to use thin set over the vinyl and install the flexible tile sections over it without it cracking to to the eneven nature of the floor?
Important is that the suppoort for the subfloor is not regular 2 x (6 or 8) joists -the support was common in the 70's in townhouses and involves a bridging or "manufactured truses made of a layer of 'flat' 2x4's connected to a second level of flat 2x4's by metal brackets. Weight is obviously a concern but thinset and these thin squares don't seem to heavy.
If so, any tips?
Thank you

The little squares you refer to are mosaics and they come in a variety of styles, shapes, surface finishes, colors, designs, and so on. They're mounted on a mesh and some come in one foot sheets, some in two foot by one foot sheets, and so on. They're used on custom shower floors for the most part because they can be conformed to the slope to the drain more easily. I've also seen them on walls that are curved for the same reason. Consequently, in so far as the crown effect in your floor, yes, they would be a good choice to deal with that issue. But, in so far as the vinyl is concerned, the laws of physics remain constant, like it or not. Every time I try to skirt them, I get reminded all over again just how constant they are. Installing tile to vinyl is not a good idea. Neither is installing it to wood. You only want to do the job once. If you try to skirt the rules, you'll be doing it over which will pretty much wipe out any time or effort savings you may have been after in the beginning.

Peter

You'll be able to the follow the contour of the floor with the mosaics, but dont be fooled into thinking that will solve your problem. If the floor is not up to snuff, those little tiles may not crack but the grout certainly will. This type of tile requires the same structural support as any other format tile. Any as Smokey said, the vinyl has to go.

If not vinyl or wood, what do you use?

Tile and wood have a dramatically different expansion and contraction rate. Comparatively speaking, wood expands a lot where tile only expands a little. Consequently, they can't remain glued to each other unless you use something flexible to adhere them to the wood and then the surface under the tile won't be solid and the tiles will break because they don't like to flex. Consequently, you need a medium between them that will compensate for the difference. There are several approved systems on the market. Concrete board, Hardi backer, and Ditra membrane are the most common and widely used. My personal prejudice is concrete board because it's what I've used for years, it works, and I'm used to it.

You have been a lot of help and I thank you very much - now I'll weigh my options.
If you get a chance let me know what you think about peel n' stick with a dab of caulking sealant under each corner for the scenario I have discussed[crowns etc] - I did it on a concrete floor years ago and it held fast.

My opinion of peel n' sticks is pretty low due to past experience with them. They tend to be pretty thin and curl over time. I have, however, been informed the glue on them is much better today than it used to be and this is not the issue it used to be, but I avoid them so I couldn't speak from experience. If I'm going to use vinyl, I use either real vinyl tiles or vinyl plank.

Yes, I think the newer ones are improved. I'll give it a try like I did over the concrete. I read you buy a primer simply called "peel and stick primer".
Instead of 'stuff' to put over the vinyl, I'll remove it down to the wood before applying the primer.
Thanx for the help and I'll write back by spring about how things turned out.