Humidifiers and Dehumidifiers - Hard plumbing instead of saddle valve?

I've read here that a hard line with a ball valve is better, and it makes sense to me. I'd like to go that route, but the question is how do I do that? I need to reduce the plumbing line from the hot water heater to 1/4" water line going to the humidifier in a T fitting - or something similar to that - right? I haven't seen a T fitting with that reduction in line size.

Ed?? Ajay ??

I'd put a "T" in the line you are going on, then put a 1/2" male thread, then thread on a 1/2" female onto the male. Other end of shut off valve is 1/4" compresson fitting to the 1/4" copper to the humidifer.

Copy and paste below link.

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/3116/pict0449fa3.jpg

Thanks Jay - I appreciate it. Sorry for getting your name wrong in my original post.

Not a problem.. Figured you were busy eating something! :-)

I did this same type of connection for my refrigideezer's ice maker - solved water supply problems from a prior saddle valve connection. It branched off the cold water supply, of course.

So, I'm willing to go the hard plumbing route for my Aprilaire 560A bypass install.

The humidifier is on the supply plenum, with bypass just next to it on the return plenum.

Will using the hot water supply make much of a difference in terms of humidifier effectiveness or efficiency?

I ask, because it seems there would be some kind of tradeoff involved when using hot water for the humidifier: it may be more efficient for evaporation, but you'd also be running your water heater a little more often.

Now, I have no idea how much water the 560A will likely run to keep RH comfortable in our forced-air, gas furnace home . . . but, figured it couldn't hurt to understand the gives and takes in using hot vs. cold water for this bypass humidifier.

Thanks,

- Wade

There is a lot of mixed answers all over on Brand A vs Brand C and Brand F says hot water is good or not good.

True, you will have your water heater run more using the hot water, but I think the trade off is going to be a wash since you are using hot water, it has a better chance of running your humidifer less to get the humidity up in the home.

I haven't really seen much increese in gas use yet. but then we had a very mild Dec. Also the hot water helps out when you run your fan all times, where the air temp is lower.

Honeywell says you may gain about a 10% in evaperation when you use hot water.

Hi Jay,
These points all makes sense to me, though I'd never seen a 10% figure before - that's not insignificant, it seems.

Honestly, there's already a saddle valve on the cold supply to my nearby water heater, which sticks out like a sore thumb saying, "the prior owners put me here - do the right job and throw in a proper "T", etc. instead . . .", which has admittedly been weighing on my mind as a "get two birds with one plumbing job" type of situation :) . Ah, aesthetics.

I'll do some more reading here and then just try one way or the other - I can always switch things if cold seems to be not working well, or if hot seems to be cycling our only moderately efficient water heater a bit much.

Admittedly, I am leaning towards using the hot supply right now.

Thanks much for your helpful and informative perspective.

- Wade

Hello. I'm new to the forum, been reading for a week or so now. I am going to install an Aprilaire 600 into my home. My furnace is a Goodman GNMT model (came with the house). It has a 24V HUM tab so I don't think the wiring should be to difficult. Still trying to decide on if I want to use the automatic sensor or not. Anyway regarding this thread.

I was also considering the supply line installation to my humidifier instead of the saddle valve. If I do this do I have to tee off of my supply line from the hot water tank? The supply line to my tub sink, from the main HW supply, runs directly behind my furnace and I was thinking of teeing off of this. I don't believe this have a major affect on the flow of hot water to the sink, will it? My washer supply line also comes off the line. Thanks.

My personal opinion is that where you want to tee the supply from sounds fine.

My mention above for throwing in a "T" at the hot water heater's cold intake is only because there was a pre-existing saddle valve there I wouldn't mind removing - plus, my Aprilaire is literally two feet from that pipe.

If I go the hot water route, I'll actually tap into the hot water at a slightly different point, due to space requirements and neatness of the plumbing (i.e., the cold intake pipe is easy to reach, but the hot output pipe is next to the supply plenum, so I'd tap in a few feet downstream).

Assuming the water is usually hot from where you're tapping (i.e., it doesn't cool down too fast in-between uses by the humidifier - it sounds pretty close to the hot water heater, anyway), there shouldn't be an issue, is my guess. I can't see this small amount of water affecting your sink or washer's supply due to co-location, either.

- Wade

If you are in a cold state, and has lot of temps up and down, then I'd go with the outdoor sensor if you able to get it outside.

I have it on mine, friends, and as well my parents. We been happy with the results on this since we don't have to adj the settings when the temp changes.

If you are futher away from the water heater, the water temp may not be up there by the time it gets there.. Volume is low, and will be a heat lost for you.

If you are in a cold state, and has lot of temps up and down, then I'd go with the outdoor sensor if you able to get it outside.

I have it on mine, friends, and as well my parents. We been happy with the results on this since we don't have to adj the settings when the temp changes.

If you are futher away from the water heater, the water temp may not be up there by the time it gets there.. Volume is low, and will be a heat lost for you.

I live just south of Pittsburgh. I was going to install the outdoor sensor and see how it works. I can always switch it to manual if I don't like the way it controls. My hot water heater is no more than 4ft away from my furnance, so I don't think heat loss would be a problem. My supply line to the tub sink and washer is warm/hot over to the faucet. Thanks for the info.

Jay:
I got my AA 600 and purchased what rigid duct work I thought I would need for the bypass. I was roughing it out tonight and found I run into the problem that my fresh combustion air supply and exhaust lines will obstruct the bypass ducting. The adjustable 90 I bought won't work. I think a 60 would work? Can I transition from rigid to flexible ducting to get around this problem, make a 60 from my 90, or just use flexible ducting for the complete install, besides the connection to the humidifier and the takeoff to the return line? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

I used the semi ridge on mine since I had to make too many turns.

I wll post pix if you want me to.

That would be great. Thanks

Here you go! :-)

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/4705/pict0456uh4.jpg

Well, that answers my question! Thanks Jay, looks like I'll be taking a trip to Lowe's tonight with the ducting I bought last night to get this.