Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Problem with transition...Please Help!!

Hello All,

I have a tough situation here that I am hoping someone can provide me with some insight as to how I can solve. I am ready to install a laminate floor in one of the rooms of my house. The problem I have relates to the transition between that room and the kitchen, which has a linoleum floor.

The height of the linoleum floor is nearly one inch above the current subfloor (which will be somewhat less once the flooring is installed) of the adjoining room, which had been carpeted. Upon removal of the carpet, I discovered sort of a "ramp" made of cedar shingles constructed to make a smooth transition between rooms.

Now that the carpet has been removed, I know I now have to remove this "ramp". The question is how do I handle the transition between rooms being that there is such a big differential.

Any advice/insight will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance........


DR.

You should be able to look at samples of transition pieces where ever you get or got the laminate. There is one used to transition from laminate to a lower surface such as uncovered concrete or sheet vinyl that is usually called a reducer. If the hight will work out, you could use this one by turning it around and using it the other direction. Let the taller side of it lip over the kitchen floor and the lower side lip over the new laminate floor. They have a track that fastens to the floor and the transition piece snaps into it. You'll need to put a shim under the track in order to raise it up enough that the transition can reach it to snap in.

Thanks for the reply.

I do have a reducer, but I don't think it's going to be able to make the connection. My laminate floor looks like it's still going to be too low as compared to the linoleum kitchen floor.

Any other ideas??

I'm really trying to avoid having to put down another layer of subflooring as I think I will have a problem around the doorway in another part of the room.

If you have a reducer, would it work if not for the hight difference? If so, how about taking it to a cabinet shop and get them to make one the same configuration but with dimensions that will work? Just guessing at this point, but I had to do something similar once and it worked and cost me 25 bucks.