Heat Pumps and Electric Heating - Troubleshooting: 'It's just not warming the house like it should"
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Chrisatunc
01-31-07, 03:07 PM
Howdy-
Sorry for an ambigous, no-acute-problem, help-me-guess post.
I live in a 1660 sqft split-foyer house (built in 1978) with a heat pump. Thermostat is upstairs.
In the winter, the system almost always ends up utilizing stage 2 ('emergency' or 'auxiliary' heat) every time it operates. I tried to adjust the length of time the thermostat will operate before it engages stage 2 and it's not adjustable on my model (called the manufacturer, hunter, to check). I've played with closing the unnecessary vents upstairs, tried to leave doors open (except my bedroom door), but 1) the system still seems to run a long time (jacks up my heat bill) AND 2) the tempurature on the dial is higher than the rest of the house feels.
Part of the fault there is that the upstairs bathroom has a vent that's close to the blower fan (thus, higher volume of air flow), and the thermostat sits outside the upstairs bathroom. I have experimented with shutting the bathroom door and closing the vent (to give the other vents more air) and it's not noticeably better for the whole-house tempurature. I then opened that vent and left the bathroom door open to see if that would at least prevent the system from running so long as to kick in the stage 2. Not usually. As you might guess, doing this 2nd test left the rest of the house a little colder b/c the system did run less (although still kicking into stage 2).
I've had my system serviced regularly since I've owned the house but it was serviced in May (not a cold month). I'm religious about changing my filters (there's a return upstairs and downstars and I'm good with both). The last time it was checked, the capacitor on the blower was changed.
So - my questions:
Disclaimer: I know that a 1970's house with original windows and storm windows isn't a model for energy efficiency. That said:
-will having the heating guys service my system now allow them to diagnose/check some component or function that they wouldn't have tested in May?
-does anyone have any advice about the air duct cleaning services? Are those intended to make the germ-freaks happy or is it done to noticeably improve system efficiency?
-are there any vent fans that are mounted at the vent cover (as opposed to beig located in the middle of a run and out-of-sight)? Are these actually useful?
As always, thanks for patiently reading through my gripes and for responding!
-Chris
Sorry for an ambigous, no-acute-problem, help-me-guess post.
I live in a 1660 sqft split-foyer house (built in 1978) with a heat pump. Thermostat is upstairs.
In the winter, the system almost always ends up utilizing stage 2 ('emergency' or 'auxiliary' heat) every time it operates. I tried to adjust the length of time the thermostat will operate before it engages stage 2 and it's not adjustable on my model (called the manufacturer, hunter, to check). I've played with closing the unnecessary vents upstairs, tried to leave doors open (except my bedroom door), but 1) the system still seems to run a long time (jacks up my heat bill) AND 2) the tempurature on the dial is higher than the rest of the house feels.
Part of the fault there is that the upstairs bathroom has a vent that's close to the blower fan (thus, higher volume of air flow), and the thermostat sits outside the upstairs bathroom. I have experimented with shutting the bathroom door and closing the vent (to give the other vents more air) and it's not noticeably better for the whole-house tempurature. I then opened that vent and left the bathroom door open to see if that would at least prevent the system from running so long as to kick in the stage 2. Not usually. As you might guess, doing this 2nd test left the rest of the house a little colder b/c the system did run less (although still kicking into stage 2).
I've had my system serviced regularly since I've owned the house but it was serviced in May (not a cold month). I'm religious about changing my filters (there's a return upstairs and downstars and I'm good with both). The last time it was checked, the capacitor on the blower was changed.
So - my questions:
Disclaimer: I know that a 1970's house with original windows and storm windows isn't a model for energy efficiency. That said:
-will having the heating guys service my system now allow them to diagnose/check some component or function that they wouldn't have tested in May?
-does anyone have any advice about the air duct cleaning services? Are those intended to make the germ-freaks happy or is it done to noticeably improve system efficiency?
-are there any vent fans that are mounted at the vent cover (as opposed to beig located in the middle of a run and out-of-sight)? Are these actually useful?
As always, thanks for patiently reading through my gripes and for responding!
-Chris
nomore9to5
01-31-07, 07:19 PM
having a contractor come out to check the heat pump does work best in cold conditions. i would have one out to look into some duct changes. their are zoning systems available so that allow you to split the house in a way with two thermostats. there may be a problem with the way the heat pump itself is performing causing the electric heat to come on more than necessary. If you have a hunter thermostat you may wanna look into a honeywell vision pro. they are much more efficient in their aux staging.
Jay11J
01-31-07, 07:29 PM
I agree with nomore about the VisioinPro t-stat. I don't care for the Hunter line since they are not the best t-stat out there.
Also, with the VisionPro, you can add an outdoor sensor to lock out to prevent the Aux heat to come on when it's not really needed.
Also, with the VisionPro, you can add an outdoor sensor to lock out to prevent the Aux heat to come on when it's not really needed.
Ed Imeduc
01-31-07, 07:45 PM
In the winter, the system almost always ends up utilizing stage 2 ('emergency' or 'auxiliary' heat) every time it operates.
You sure you have the right size heatpump there for the home????
For sure dont spend the $$$ to have the ducts cleaned.
I dont know how big the cold air return's there are. But just for kicks you could try and block off say half the upstairs return .(If it dont suck to hard) See if this helps the downstairs heat better. ;)
You sure you have the right size heatpump there for the home????
For sure dont spend the $$$ to have the ducts cleaned.
I dont know how big the cold air return's there are. But just for kicks you could try and block off say half the upstairs return .(If it dont suck to hard) See if this helps the downstairs heat better. ;)
KField
02-01-07, 06:47 PM
You are right about construction methods in the 70s. I would suggest looking into the attic (or having a skilled energy sleuth doing it). Many times the kitchen had a dropped or 'tray' ceiling and the same was true for the bathroom area over the bathtub and vanities. These areas are notorious for massive energy loss. Don't overlook the possibility of reducing the amount of heat it takes to make the house comfortable. That will do the same thing as putting in a larger heat pump. Also check the upper level return as it may draw air from the attic. If you don't have suffucient insulation in the attic put more in. And seal up the attic access.
Ken
Ken