Doors and Windows - question on replacing windows...

Hello - I am in the process of replacing all of the windows in my house, a few at a time. I am replacing the entire windows, casing and all, i.e. taking the existing windows out down to the rough opening. My contractor came out to measure the existing windows along with the marvin window guy so they would know what to order. One of the windows to me looks like two seperate windows, however both the contractor and Marvin guy said it was really one long window with a piece of moulding inbetween on the inside to make it look like two. I questioned them, but they said they could tell it was reallty one large window, so I did not pursue it further. Marvin made the windows to fit the rough openings. They are coming out friday (tomorrow) to remove the old and install the new windows, so I pulled off all the interior moulding tonight to get ready. Guess what - two windows where they were positive it was one. The moulding was covering a stud, not empty space as they thought.

I am of the belief that in this situation there are two things the contractor can do. One is to return the one large window and order 2 seperate. The other is to redo the header above both windows to be one large header (roughly 8 foot long). Of course option two requires sheetrock removal and replacement and a lot more work. I believe just using the window as is (which requires cutting out the stud) would negatively affect the loadbearing nature of the current setup. Is this true? I want to make sure that if the contractor says they will cut the stud to fit the window, I want to know enough to tell them that is wrong and they have to order new windows or redo the header correctly.

If they redo the header, I assume to span an 8 foot length, I would need at least 2 2x8s nailed together to span the distance. Is this correct?

Thanks,
Rob

The existing header might be enough. Look up span tables on Google. They have tables for double 2 x ????. If you go with a new header, I'd go with 2 x 10 if you can. The extra cost is nominal. Anyway, your thinking is right. THe Southern Pine Council has these tables and posts them on a website.

Depending on the age of the house, there may or may not be headers above your windows. If there are no headers, then the stud should not be cut out, and if it is cut out, you are correct, it would need a header.

But if there is a header, it's possible that it runs the entire length of the opening, and that 2x4 was simply put in there as a spacer between 2 windows. The only way to find out is to remove the interior trim over both windows and have a look. Usually you can see whether there is a header or not, and if it is continuous, or if there is a seam. Don't mistake a 2x4 laying flat for a header.

It's usually possible to replace headers from the exterior if the drywall must be saved for some reason (irreplaceable wallpaper, texture, etc). Sometimes it's actually better to do it that way. When we run into something like that (which is to be expected in construction because you can't foresee everything) we always tell the homeowners that we will do it for our cost of labor and materials... meaning we aren't going to make a bundle off of it- we'll just break even, since it needs to be done.

I agree with sleeper, a single stud is not a supporting structure, most likely just a divider as a nailer. But you need to verify there is a full header.

Another vote for it being more likely there is an existing header. 8' is a hell of a span for the lack of one or even a single 2"x4" supporting the center. It's probably just a filler/nailer like what was suggested.

Thanks everyone for your replies. As you all suggested, there was a header across the entire span of two windows, and the one 2X4 was just to provide a nailing surface for thr two windows. In fact, the bottom of the header did not even rest on the 2x4 - there was about a 1/4 inch gap. Obviously not load bearing :-)

Well, the windows are in now. What do you all recommend for insulation around the jam. I believe the typical choices are fiberglass insulation or foam. Is one better than the other. I know foam is more expensive, but it is only a few windows, so cost is not of concern.

Thanks,
Rob

I would go with the expanding foam. If you are going to be doing it yourself, be careful with it until you know how much it expands. I had a "Lucy" moment with that stuff some years ago.

DAP (and probably others) make a minimal expansion foam just for doors and windows . a nice thing about it is it is reusable and cleans up with water . you can use half a can , clean the straw with water then use the other half of the can next month on another project

I prefer using foam whenever possible, because the foam will stop air, not just slow it. Another vote for DAP Latex window & door foam- it's my favorite- but you use up a LOT of it if the gap is over 1/2" wide, and it's expensive stuff. (it works better in the wintertime if you warm the cans in an oven [set on warm, 120F, or slightly warmer if the door is left open] , shaking it often until the can is hot.) Dap is great for foaming even those tight 1/8" cracks because you can stick the little plastic nozzle in there and inject the foam.

If the gaps are 1/2" or wider, then Great Stuff has a blue can specifically for doors and windows. You do NOT want to use the Great Stuff in the red can, or any other brand that does not specifically say it is for doors and windows. They will bow window frames.

I know professional insulators who also swear by the DAP- they spray one bead as far as possible to the exterior, then spray another bead as close as possible to the interior, to double-seal the perimeters of the windows.

Another technique would be to spray the foam as far as possible to the exterior, then fill the rest of the cavity with fiberglass insulation, loosely filling the spaces with strips of fiberglass. Fiberglass loses its effectiveness if it is "packed in" tight.

I would go with the expanding foam. If you are going to be doing it yourself, be careful with it until you know how much it expands. I had a "Lucy" moment with that stuff some years ago.

LOL Lucy moment I did this myself on my garage door area