Water Softeners and Air Filtration Systems - Culligan leaks

Periodically, I get some seepage from the top of my regen tank, where the controller mounts. I've taken the controller off, inspected the "O" ring, even placed some "O" ring lubricant on it, which helped for a few awhile, but it started again. Culligan says the tank body is out of round and needs to be replaced, at a hefty price. I am thinking the "O" ring needs to be replaced but don't know where to get one.

Another thing, the town made us put check valves on our water systems, creating a "closed" system. Would this be causing the problem?

First we'll treat the symptom...

A "round cross section" o-ring is an o-ring is an o-ring. Nothing special about a Culligan o-ring. It could be standard or metric. There are some propritary design o-rings with odd cross sections that are OEM but I think the Culligan is a common o-ring.

There are usually local businesses that specialize in bearings, seals, o-rings, and hydrauilic lines and stuff. Hit the Yellow Pages.

Take your o-ring to them and they will measure it up and sell you a replacement. Make sure that when you install the new o-ring you DON'T use anything on the o-ring that contains ANY petroleum products or the o-ring will fail. Wesson (salad) oil or "food grade" silicone grease works fine. Don't overtighten the control valve on the tank.

Now, we'll cure the disease...

With a "closed" plumbing system the static pressure in your plumbing can reach up to 150 psi and that's WAY TOO HIGH. If that new check valve was installed WITHOUT ADDING A THERMAL EXPANSION TANK then some one should have their hands broken. Wihout adding a thermal expansion tank when creating a closed plumbing system the only thing keeping you from a very expensive and dangerous experience is the T&P valve on your water heater.

The increased pressure could easily cause the leaky o-ring you are experiencing along with many other new problems.

Here's a link to read (you have to "copy & paste" as HTML is off on this forum)

http://wattsreg.com/pro/divisions/watersafety_flowcontrol/learnabout/learnabout_thermexpansion.asp?catId=64

CALL A PLUMBER RIGHT NOW. DO NOT WASTE ANY TIME.

If they did add a thermal expansion tank then the o-ring simply failed by itself, although I doubt it... those o-rings seem to last decades as long as nobody removed the control and doesn't re-lube the o-ring or reinstall the control correctly.

Thought so. They installed a new meter last year, and installed the Watts No7 Dual Check at the same time. (I guess in this town, any water department employee can do it.) Coincidently, that's when the leak started. I had Culligan service the unit. The so called tech said the tank went out of round and I would need a new one. I said thanks and showed him the door.

Anyway, I went to WATTS and found this:

Q What about thermal expansion? Doesn’t the
Dual Check Valve create a closed system?
A A backflow preventer, like any other
checking device installed at the service
connection, creates a closed domestic
water system. The water purveyor has the
right and duty to contain all domestic
water systems that, in his judgement,
represent a threat—or a potential
threat—to his public water supply. Prior
to closing the domestic water system by
installing a Dual Check Valve backflow
preventer, however, the purveyor has a
responsibility to notify the consumer and
the plumbing official, in writing, of his
intent to do so. The consumer must then
make provisions for any resulting thermal
expansion through the installation of a
Watts Gov. 80 antisiphon ball **** and
relief valve, auxiliary pressure relief valve,
or a thermal expansion tank.

Well, nobody told us about the "closed system" they caused.

Thanks, I'm off to HD to pick up a TE tank.

It's hard to argue with physics and when you do... physics usually wins.

Add a thermal expansion tank ("T-ed") to the cold water inlet of your water heater and replace that o-ring on the control valve.

the tank worked, not a drop for 3 days. "O" ring seems fine for now, time will tell. Thanks