Doors and Windows - hanging interior doors
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icfbunt
01-15-07, 07:24 AM
I have a few interior prehung doors to install. I am wondering what method others use to install? I typically will use 1/8" shims to plumb the jamb up on the hinge side before I even put the door into place. Then I will screw a few stops on the inside so that all I have to do is lift the door into the opening, and nail the hinge side (should already be plumb). The stops should hold the door in the correct plane. Then I will shim the other side and finish nailing the door off.
Also what do you guys do when you are installing a prehund in a closet? i.e when the inside of the of the door is actually on the outside (facing the hall), but you cant get inside of the closet to nail the door without pulling out the factory plastic door pin?
thks......Larry
Also what do you guys do when you are installing a prehund in a closet? i.e when the inside of the of the door is actually on the outside (facing the hall), but you cant get inside of the closet to nail the door without pulling out the factory plastic door pin?
thks......Larry
XSleeper
01-15-07, 08:38 AM
Sounds like you've got good techniques. Installing the door flush with the walls won't always result in a perfectly plumb door, however. But it's nice to try. IMO, having the top of the jamb as close as possible to being flush with the wall helps keep the top miters nice- if you need to adjust the jamb in or out, I like to do it at the bottom of the jamb.
As far as the closet, I'll run my hose through the doorknob hole, then plug my gun in (and have a light inside the closet) pop a few nails in it, unplug the hose and unlock the door.
Then everyone will make jokes about me finally coming out of the closet.
As far as the closet, I'll run my hose through the doorknob hole, then plug my gun in (and have a light inside the closet) pop a few nails in it, unplug the hose and unlock the door.
Then everyone will make jokes about me finally coming out of the closet.
chandler
01-15-07, 06:32 PM
Terry: had the same situation in a bathroom. My job was trim and door install. They had a closet built, get this, 18" wide. Heck, I'm more than 18" thick, so wide doesn't even come to play. Had to nail it and the trim with lights and mirrors in the closet, backwards. Love this job!!
HIE
05-08-07, 06:20 AM
I am hanging a prehung door in a frame that it came with. I moved a wall and kept the door and frame ( I think that is called a jamb) intact. To reinstall in my new wall, I put in the frame first making sure that it was level on the two sides. To do that, I nailed the right side ( for the knob ) into the 2 x 4 and I used shims on the left side, making sure both right and left were level. When I tried to just dropt the door in, I cannot for the life of me, get it to fit so that it closes. No matter what I try with the leveling and moving of the left and right sides of the frame, it will not fit so that it closes. I do not know if it is important, but there is no base to this door frame.
HELP if you can.
HELP if you can.
XSleeper
05-08-07, 05:40 PM
HIE,
When you have a prehung door, it's usually best to keep the door on it's hinges as you install the frame into the wall. You might want to cut the nails you have installed with a reciprocating saw and start over if you're having a lot of trouble.
Here's a short version of how I would do it, starting from scratch:
First, using a 78" level is the best method for plumbing doors. 4' levels will give you some errors when you check the jambs for the simple reason that they only check 4' worth of the jamb. I always start by checking the studs on the hinge side to see if they are plumb. If they aren't, I'll nail shims onto that side, aligning them with the approximate location of the 3 hinges. Once the shims are plumb, the door will be plumb.
Once that is done, you should check the floor to see if it is level. If it is not level, determine which side is high, and by how much. That measurement must either be: 1) cut off of the that would otherwise be too high or 2) shimmed up on the side that is low. Depending on the floor coverings, you will choose one method or the other.
Now the door is ready to install (the door is still on its hinges in its prehung jamb). You will slide it into the rough opening, then put about 3 nails through the hinge side jamb, nailing where the shims are located. Then you will shim the latch side at the top and bottom (measure the distance between the jamb, making it the same on the bottom as it is on the top). Then nail the top and bottom of the latch side. You should only have 5 nails in the door, and you should be able to open it up and see if it operates correctly, making any adjustments as needed. The door should get a 3" long screw through the top hinge, which will pull it tight to the studs, raising it slightly on the latch side and slightly increasing the gap along the edge of the door along the latch side.
The rest is simply making the rest of the latch side of the jamb straight with the door, adding a few more shims and nails where needed. When the door is cased, small finish nails will pin the inside edge of the casing to the jamb, while larger finish nails will nail the outside edge of the casing to the studs.
Another trick is to tack 1/8" shims to the edge of the door slab on all 3 sides, then close the door, keeping it closed while you shim it in place and put about 6 nails through the jamb. The 1/8" shims maintain the proper gap around the door for you. Then when you open the door and remove the shims, it should be pretty close to where you need it to be.
Keep in mind that you also need to check to ensure the rough opening (actually the wall itself) is not racked, with one side being plumb, and one side being out of plumb. If the wall is perfectly plumb, you would ideally be able to open the door 90 degrees, put the level on the latch side of the slab of the door, and have it also be plumb.
When a door is not racked, it should contact the door stop evenly on the latch side. If it does not, each corner of the door needs some adjustment... either in or out. If you have problems in that regard, post back. I promised this would be "a short version." ;)
When you have a prehung door, it's usually best to keep the door on it's hinges as you install the frame into the wall. You might want to cut the nails you have installed with a reciprocating saw and start over if you're having a lot of trouble.
Here's a short version of how I would do it, starting from scratch:
First, using a 78" level is the best method for plumbing doors. 4' levels will give you some errors when you check the jambs for the simple reason that they only check 4' worth of the jamb. I always start by checking the studs on the hinge side to see if they are plumb. If they aren't, I'll nail shims onto that side, aligning them with the approximate location of the 3 hinges. Once the shims are plumb, the door will be plumb.
Once that is done, you should check the floor to see if it is level. If it is not level, determine which side is high, and by how much. That measurement must either be: 1) cut off of the that would otherwise be too high or 2) shimmed up on the side that is low. Depending on the floor coverings, you will choose one method or the other.
Now the door is ready to install (the door is still on its hinges in its prehung jamb). You will slide it into the rough opening, then put about 3 nails through the hinge side jamb, nailing where the shims are located. Then you will shim the latch side at the top and bottom (measure the distance between the jamb, making it the same on the bottom as it is on the top). Then nail the top and bottom of the latch side. You should only have 5 nails in the door, and you should be able to open it up and see if it operates correctly, making any adjustments as needed. The door should get a 3" long screw through the top hinge, which will pull it tight to the studs, raising it slightly on the latch side and slightly increasing the gap along the edge of the door along the latch side.
The rest is simply making the rest of the latch side of the jamb straight with the door, adding a few more shims and nails where needed. When the door is cased, small finish nails will pin the inside edge of the casing to the jamb, while larger finish nails will nail the outside edge of the casing to the studs.
Another trick is to tack 1/8" shims to the edge of the door slab on all 3 sides, then close the door, keeping it closed while you shim it in place and put about 6 nails through the jamb. The 1/8" shims maintain the proper gap around the door for you. Then when you open the door and remove the shims, it should be pretty close to where you need it to be.
Keep in mind that you also need to check to ensure the rough opening (actually the wall itself) is not racked, with one side being plumb, and one side being out of plumb. If the wall is perfectly plumb, you would ideally be able to open the door 90 degrees, put the level on the latch side of the slab of the door, and have it also be plumb.
When a door is not racked, it should contact the door stop evenly on the latch side. If it does not, each corner of the door needs some adjustment... either in or out. If you have problems in that regard, post back. I promised this would be "a short version." ;)