Doors and Windows - Andersen 200 vs 400

I am putting large addition on my house. I am replacing all existing windows also to match the new windows on addition. I was getting Andersen 400 series. right now we are at a standstill and actually doing some redesigning. Some of this is going to be paid for by contractor ( they made some mistakes) but some of it, I may have to pay for. The owner of company was here and he and I were talking about things. WIndows came up cause the framer had framed the wrong size (he framed for 200 series which are a little smaller than 400 series) The owner asked why I was getting 400? He said he just went through this cause he was building a house and he went with the 200. Said the main differences were things like bigger selection of locks, colors of exterior trim, 400 has the new "invisible" bug screen, more size options and grid options in 400 (size not an issue for me, grids may be have to check what standard is for my size windows). I thought 400 were more efficient? But when I got on Andersen web site, it looks like he is right. 200 with Low E glass is nearly identical to 400 Low E. Now the 400 has more glass options like Low sun or something like that. But I was getting plain low E in 400. Should I switch to 200 and use money saved for something else? I live in Baltimore MD

Bill

You will be paying alot more for the 400 series for features you may never appreciate. Storm proof glass, glass that "cleans itself" (yeah right), and the screens. Since it is already framed for the 200 series (not your fault), it would be cheaper to go with them without penalty. You should get a hefty rebate on all the windows, however, as the price difference is substantial. I think the 200 series windows do a good job. I have installed them, and they performed fine. I have never, however, had experience with the 400's. I went to their website and studied the differences.

IMHO, 200 are builders grade windows, which translates to slightly better than junk, even though they have Andersens label on them. When asked to install builders grade anything, I suggest they find someone else, because when they find out what they actually have, I will be the one that gets blamed.

I went to home depot and compared the two. visual differences are mainly the hardware. Not many options on 200. many colors available on 400. Different mechanism to tilt windows-200 have slides on top of sashes, 400 has tilt assist that you slide down beside the bottom sash to tilt it out. lot of exterior colors on 400, only white and sandstone on 200. sash may be little thicker on 400 (note that 400 has two varieties the tilt wash and the woodwright. the woodwright has much thicker sash and is about $100 more than the tilt wash depending on size of course) as far as glass, the 200 has low grade dual pane available but also has low e. The cheapest 400 is low e. but if you get low e in the 200, it is same as the low e in 400 (U values and other efficiency ratings)

so, just bill, why do you say builders grade, unless you are talking about the ones that do NOT have low e-just dual pane. like I said the low e ones are nearly identical from efficiency viewpoint per Andersen literature on their site. seems that you pay for things like the tru-scene screen, hardware options, color options, more grill options, more size options, streak free glass. this for a difference of $150/window (a 2846 size) note that to get different hardware in the 400 it was another $50 to get satin nickel and I'm sure similar for other available options. I priced them with screens (tru scene on 400, reg on 200 cause tru scene not available) low e glass on 200 and 400 (none of the other options on glass that are available like tempered or sun protection), white exterior and white interior.

without going into too much detail.....go 400!!! Try not to look at the numbers but rather let your eyes make the decision. If you go 200 over 400 you will regret it. I promise. Good luck. P.S. pressure jambliner . The biggest complaint about the 200 is that it has to be installed almost perfect. I f you go 200 make sure that the sidejambs are not installed with a bow in them. We call this the pickle barrel effect. 200 will not compensate for o.k. install and 400 is very forgiving.

Oh I don't know, you could buy the 200 series and then when the wind is blowing through your new Andersen windows that the builders love because it says Andersen but costs $275/ window, you could just call up Andersen and they will send out one of their qualified techs to install extra weatherstriping here and backer rod there, maybe some new dust pads, and when they are all done, it should seal pretty good. You may need Hulk Hogan to open and close them, but Man you saved alot of money.

Just my opinion here, if you really want to use Andersen, buy their casements, if you want a good DH, go with Marvin Ultimate series, not the Integrity.

Just my opinion here, if you really want to use Andersen, buy their casements, if you want a good DH, go with Marvin Ultimate series, not the Integrity.

I am in the process of picking window to replace ours.
They are all casement and fix picture window.
Our contractor recommend pella proline, but i found alot
of negative review on them, and there is a class action lawsuit on it too,
some design flaw that trap water between the glass,
and rotten the wood.
So I want to use andersen instead. I read some post that
for casement 200 and 400 are the same. is it true?
Should i pay more to get 400 series for casement anyway?
Thanks

The 400 series has the upgraded Low E glass which is a pretty good investment. If you have really cold winters or really hot summers, then it is definetly worth the extra $$ and will save you $$ in the long run.

Good Luck.

you can get low E glass on 200 series. It is an option.

Well in that case just get the 200 and upgrade to Low E