Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - LP Gas (Propane) Regulator Replacement

We had someone back into the gas pipe at a house near us and damage the regulator. Fortunately the valve was shut off at the tank (about 100 feet away).

I need to replace the regulator. It is mounted upright outside the home on 3/4" iron pipe. The line from the tank is copper (1/2" I think). The only appliance is a high-efficiency furnace, which is direct vented (no chimney).

Here is a photo: http://www.geocities.com/scoostraw/IMG_1368.JPG

Are natural gas and propane regulators the same? Grainger has a good supply, but theirs do not say "natural gas" or "propane" on them.

Any input would be most appreciated!

Just as long the pressure rating matches.

Honestly, I think you are best to call your LP dealer and have them replace it. That way they can check the gas pressure going out of the regulator into the house.. otherwise, if they are not set right, it will throw everything off.

There are political reasons why I will be doing this job myself. I understand how to bleed the line from the tank to the 2nd-stage regulator. As I understand it, the line from there to the furnace will bleed itself out.

I am just not that experienced in this area so am looking for any tips and or advice.

You could change out the regulator yourself as long all pressure rating are matching..

Just that you need to adj the pressure after it's installed. I am sure you don't have the manometer to check the gas pressure? If not, ask your LP dealer who fills your tank, I am sure they won't have a problem checking it ou.

Otherwise, if the pressure is not set, then the burners will act up and shoot up the heat exchanger.

Thanks Jay. That was my main question - how to check and/or set the regulator. No I do not have a manometer.

I did phone the local gas supplier and the guy I spoke with said theirs come pre-set and all I would need to do is hook it up. I may go that route.

2 stage set up . Thats the way to go and the way you want to go. Most little Joe's on the tank will be 5 psi to the home then Id go with a Fisher regulator at the home for the btu you need in it. But as said you do have to set any regulator after its in for 11" W/C . With the furnace running. And yes you have to bleed the inside line too.

ED ;)

What is the standard process for bleeding the inside line Ed?

Be sure to use approved sealer for LP gas on all pipe threads and check every connection twice with an approved leak test fluid or an electronic gas detector. Realize the liability that you assume and proceed with full knowledge of the consequences of a future problem. I'm beginning to sound like a lawyer.

Ken

I hearya loud and clear Ken!

Just to comment, ad to, etc on this topic and some of the posts:

First, if the propane tank is some 100 feet away from the house it is more than likely a two stage system. There should be a high pressure regulator at the tank (red in color) which will regulator the pressure to either 5 psi or 10 psi (all the ones my company uses are 10 PSI) and the second stage regulator at the house which will drop the pressure down further to approx 1/2 psi.

Second: The LP company supplied regulator that is likely "factory set" may need to be tweaked. Ideally, you want the regulator lockup pressure to be 13" water column. Most regulators I install are set for 11" w.c. lockup. There are times that this will not pose a problem, regardless, I would have both lock up and flow pressure tests taken at the inlet of the gas control valve of the furnace any the flow pressure of the manifold of the furnace to assure the correct pressures. The furnace should have a data plate on it to what the spec. pressures should be. Inlet is usually between 11 and 13" w.c. and manifold pressure is usually 10" w.c. It is important that these pressures are correct being it's a high efficiency furnace.

Lastly, one thread sealer that is NOT APPROVED for gas use is white teflon tape. I see too many D.Y.I'ers use it (and some plumbers that don't know better). The propane gas will eat through the tape.

Sorry for being long winded. Just want to see things done right the first time. With gas you may not get a second chance.

Here's a link that shows how to build a manometer to check the 11" wc. It is intended for RV folks, but it should still work for your purposes.

http://www.rverscorner.com/manometer.html

-Steve