Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - Walkout basement window opening -> door opening?
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gompers
11-11-06, 03:42 PM
Not sure this if this is the right place to ask, but I'll give it a shot.
I'm planning on making a window opening in the walk-out basement part of my house into triple french doors. The opening used to be on the exterior of the house, but subsequently an addition was made to the back of the house with a two story sun room sort of situation. After pulling off the molding, I was expecting to find a saddle/cripple situation under the window. Then I could just whack that (replacing jack studs if necessary) and be on my merry way. Instead it seems that the poured concrete foundation extends under the window and around the sides. The (poorly) hatched portion of this photo illustrates:
http://claw.cattes.com/IMG_2835_small_Foundation.JPG
The red hatch marks indicate the poured wall.
Complicating matters, after taking off the top molding, I noticed that what appears to be the header is not attached to the concrete by any visible means. Without removing the window, it's hard to tell if there is some sort of other beam carrying the load across the opening and there is just some framing built around it, or what is going on. Directly above this opening is another opening of the same size in the living room where a sliding door goes to the upper part of the sunroom. With the whole basement finished, it's hard to determine which way everything runs.
My question is, can I just knock out the lower portion of the poured concrete (under the window) and then frame out the opening for a door, or will this create some sort of instability?
Thanks!
I'm planning on making a window opening in the walk-out basement part of my house into triple french doors. The opening used to be on the exterior of the house, but subsequently an addition was made to the back of the house with a two story sun room sort of situation. After pulling off the molding, I was expecting to find a saddle/cripple situation under the window. Then I could just whack that (replacing jack studs if necessary) and be on my merry way. Instead it seems that the poured concrete foundation extends under the window and around the sides. The (poorly) hatched portion of this photo illustrates:
http://claw.cattes.com/IMG_2835_small_Foundation.JPG
The red hatch marks indicate the poured wall.
Complicating matters, after taking off the top molding, I noticed that what appears to be the header is not attached to the concrete by any visible means. Without removing the window, it's hard to tell if there is some sort of other beam carrying the load across the opening and there is just some framing built around it, or what is going on. Directly above this opening is another opening of the same size in the living room where a sliding door goes to the upper part of the sunroom. With the whole basement finished, it's hard to determine which way everything runs.
My question is, can I just knock out the lower portion of the poured concrete (under the window) and then frame out the opening for a door, or will this create some sort of instability?
Thanks!
bullshooter5
11-13-06, 03:29 AM
<<My question is, can I just knock out the lower portion of the poured concrete (under the window) and then frame out the opening for a door, or will this create some sort of instability?>>
Theoretically, yes. the top of a window framing detail is supposed to be at he same height as the top header to floor measurement to floor RO for a door. You obviously have to be sure you can still fit the door into this opening which generally gets framed at 6'10" in height. Another important requirement is to make sure the concrete floor is perfectly flat and level at this botom of Rough oopening. If that door is to ever operate smoothly, this element is esssential. Before you start this, get a professional to examine the lintel/header over this opening currently to make sure it is sufficient. Hopefully, you will have room for a couple of wood bucks on the side of this door.
Your next project? ........re-routing some deck stairs .
bs5
Theoretically, yes. the top of a window framing detail is supposed to be at he same height as the top header to floor measurement to floor RO for a door. You obviously have to be sure you can still fit the door into this opening which generally gets framed at 6'10" in height. Another important requirement is to make sure the concrete floor is perfectly flat and level at this botom of Rough oopening. If that door is to ever operate smoothly, this element is esssential. Before you start this, get a professional to examine the lintel/header over this opening currently to make sure it is sufficient. Hopefully, you will have room for a couple of wood bucks on the side of this door.
Your next project? ........re-routing some deck stairs .
bs5
gompers
11-13-06, 06:27 AM
<<My question is, can I just knock out the lower portion of the poured concrete (under the window) and then frame out the opening for a door, or will this create some sort of instability?>>
Theoretically, yes. the top of a window framing detail is supposed to be at he same height as the top header to floor measurement to floor RO for a door. You obviously have to be sure you can still fit the door into this opening which generally gets framed at 6'10" in height. Another important requirement is to make sure the concrete floor is perfectly flat and level at this botom of Rough oopening. If that door is to ever operate smoothly, this element is esssential. Before you start this, get a professional to examine the lintel/header over this opening currently to make sure it is sufficient. Hopefully, you will have room for a couple of wood bucks on the side of this door.
Your next project? ........re-routing some deck stairs .
bs5
Thanks for the reply. I've measured and the RO for the door shouldn't be a problem. The whole back sunroom/deck/walkout area is kind of odd on this house. I suppose it's "character", but I'd love to make it more functional and useful character.
Again, thanks for the advice!
Theoretically, yes. the top of a window framing detail is supposed to be at he same height as the top header to floor measurement to floor RO for a door. You obviously have to be sure you can still fit the door into this opening which generally gets framed at 6'10" in height. Another important requirement is to make sure the concrete floor is perfectly flat and level at this botom of Rough oopening. If that door is to ever operate smoothly, this element is esssential. Before you start this, get a professional to examine the lintel/header over this opening currently to make sure it is sufficient. Hopefully, you will have room for a couple of wood bucks on the side of this door.
Your next project? ........re-routing some deck stairs .
bs5
Thanks for the reply. I've measured and the RO for the door shouldn't be a problem. The whole back sunroom/deck/walkout area is kind of odd on this house. I suppose it's "character", but I'd love to make it more functional and useful character.
Again, thanks for the advice!