Carpentry and Woodworking - coping mitred joints
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1735saltbox
11-02-06, 11:00 AM
I'm installing 1x6 baseboard trim with a 3/8 bead profile that I added to the top. I did not mitre 45 degree angles on the edges as my walls are nowhere near square. Instead, I ran the first piece right to the edge of the wall and was planning to just cope the profile to the piece the will join it at an (approximate) 90 degree angle. What's the best way to go about coping the bead profile into the edge of the next piece. I'm finding it hard to get a good cut on such a small profile. Thanks
Wayne Mitchell
11-02-06, 02:17 PM
I have a set of jewelers files that are intended for metal use. Years ago I found that the different profiles of the files (round, oval, triangle, flat etc.) are great for fine tuning coped joints.
kpm
11-02-06, 03:05 PM
I've used a piece of sandpaper rolled tightly around different sized drill bits to get different diameters in a cope. I lay the piece flat on a table, and slide the bit back and forth against the edge of the trim.
XSleeper
11-02-06, 04:23 PM
First you need to cut a 45 on the piece that is to be coped:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/thexsleeper/detail?.dir=5a08&.dnm=3081scd.jpg
I prefer to use a jigsaw with a thin, fine toothed "coping blade" to make my cuts. The cut should be "backcut" somewhat rather than being at a 90 degree angle. The idea is so that only the face of your coped joint will contact the other piece it is butting up against.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/thexsleeper/detail?.dir=5a08&.dnm=f5f0scd.jpg
The jigsaw can also be used as a rasp to clean out detailed areas. Just follow the profile line.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/thexsleeper/detail?.dir=5a08&.dnm=dc54scd.jpg
As mentioned, a variety of rasps come in handy. I mainly use flat and round, but hardly need them after I'm done with the jigsaw.
The finished product should look perfect. If it doesn't, you either didn't follow the line, or the piece which it is butting up against is not sitting plumb. If the latter is true, I prefer to shim that other piece until it DOES sit plumb, rather than trying to guess how to adjust my cope.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/thexsleeper/detail?.dir=5a08&.dnm=9157scd.jpg
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/thexsleeper/detail?.dir=5a08&.dnm=3081scd.jpg
I prefer to use a jigsaw with a thin, fine toothed "coping blade" to make my cuts. The cut should be "backcut" somewhat rather than being at a 90 degree angle. The idea is so that only the face of your coped joint will contact the other piece it is butting up against.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/thexsleeper/detail?.dir=5a08&.dnm=f5f0scd.jpg
The jigsaw can also be used as a rasp to clean out detailed areas. Just follow the profile line.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/thexsleeper/detail?.dir=5a08&.dnm=dc54scd.jpg
As mentioned, a variety of rasps come in handy. I mainly use flat and round, but hardly need them after I'm done with the jigsaw.
The finished product should look perfect. If it doesn't, you either didn't follow the line, or the piece which it is butting up against is not sitting plumb. If the latter is true, I prefer to shim that other piece until it DOES sit plumb, rather than trying to guess how to adjust my cope.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/thexsleeper/detail?.dir=5a08&.dnm=9157scd.jpg
garywms
11-03-06, 05:08 AM
The only comment that I can add is that when you are using the coping saw todo the profile, do what they call a "back" cut. Don't cut at a 90 degree angle, but cut at about an 85 degree angle. this gets a lot of the meat that would keep the piece from fitting ang just allows the edge to make the contact. You can also cut a lot of the back out with your utility knife.