Carpentry and Woodworking - Need help installing treads and balusters

Hello All,
I have built most of my second floor my self. It is coming out great.
Now I am at the point that I need to install newel post, balusters and treads on my stairs.
The stringers were put in by a professional carpenter.
My wife and I want carpet stairs so that's the first question.

1. What is the thickness of the plywood tread (remember we want carpet over them).

2. I need to know how to install the newel post and balusters.

Is their place online I can look at plans diagrams, to help me?
I am up for the challenge; I have tools and people to help me.
But I would like to know how this is done before I start.

If you need more info to answer my questions, please ask.
Thanks in advance.
-quadcells

You will want to use pine 5/4 stair tread material with bullnose rather than plywood for the treads. Plywood just won't hold up and the edge will tend to cut your carpet threads after a time. You can use plywood (1/2") for the risers if you want since it will be carpeted.
INstalling the balusters is a different story. Will you be installing them directly into the stair treads on the bottom or will you be using a bottom rail and top rail setup? You can check with the big box stores or online for carpentry books dedicated to stair building.

chandler,
Thanks for the reply.
I plan on installing the balusters to the stair treads.
Ok the pine 5/4 bull nose sounds good with the plywood risers.
I said plywood treads because one of the contractors said that.
He was lowest bidder, but would not give me a detailed estimate.
It's funny, every contractor I had come in gave high estimates and never gave me a return call. They must be very busy or may be they can't make enough on the job. That's why I would like to do it myself.
I will look into some books.
Thanks again
-quadcells

Just remember the O ring on the Challenger went to the lowest bidder. Not to say he isn't the best contractor, but a breakdown on materials as far as quality is not asking too much.

I've found that it's pretty common for contractors to give a very high bid on small jobs that they don't want. I don't know why they just don't pass on the bid.

Years ago I installed an oak railing around a stair opening with balusters, newels and handrails. It was my first big (big for me at the time) DIY carpentry job. I started out clueless but ended up doing a really good job. It probably took me 10 times as long as it would have taken a pro, but I'm positive I did as good a job.

Visit the library or browse the DIY book section at HD or Lowes until you find one with good instructions for what you need. I actually practiced different assembly techniques on cheap pine balusters before working with the real thing.

Wayne Mitchell,
Thanks for the reply.
To all, just thinking out loud here:
My stairs are not common because I have the original stairs going from the front door up to the first floor and stairs going from the front door going down to the basement. (Split entry)
Anyways once you get to the first floor, then I have the new stairs going up to the new second floor.
Have you ever seen stairs with two newel post next to each other? One would be for the railing going down to the front door from the 1st floor and the other for the railing going from the 1st floor to the 2nd floor. If you like you can see this here:
http://www.quadcells.com/construction_5.htm
Thanks again for you time.

Where there is not enough room to install a short balustrade between the two newell posts, yes, I have seen the posts next to each other. Check the distance to make sure this will place the handrails far enough apart on the two planes.

Chandler, Thanks for your reply.
I don't know if you look at my web site, but three contractors wanted to put the hand rail from the newel post at the landing where the front door is and go up in to the ceiling of the stairs going up to the landing where that big window is, then put a newel post on the first floor and have that hand rail go in to the ceiling of the stairs that go from the landing where the big window is to the second floor. I didn't know if that was legal.

One other question is: If the stair tread have to be 36" wide, does that mean from the baluster to the wall or from edge to edge of the tread.
Sorry for all these questions, but I like to know before I speak to my building inspector who can be hard to talk to.
Thanks in advance.

You will need to have a balustrade on the open side of the stairwells, and installing them from the landing to the ceiling won't give you a fluid handrail all the way up the staircase as required by code. The balustrade can be installed this way, but you will need a handrail in addition, which can be attached directly to the studs on the walls with standoffs.
Hope this helps, and good work on the remodel! Looks great.