Painting - correcting poor air spray paint job

I used an air sprayer for the first time in our bathroom. It looked ok going on but after drying it looks blotchy and bumpy.

Can I take my palm sander and rough it up, then repaint the walls with a roller?

We need more info. What type of sprayer, what type of finish, did you use primer, did you backroll?

Also, were the floors clean? As sprayers put out very high psi, dust and debris can be thrown on the topcoat very easily.

You should be able to sand and repaint with a roller. An air powered spray gun isn't really suitable for latex paint and IMO it is rarely a good idea to do any spraying in an occupied dwelling.

You should be able to sand and repaint with a roller. An air powered spray gun isn't really suitable for latex paint and IMO it is rarely a good idea to do any spraying in an occupied dwelling.


1st, the OP stated that he used an air sprayer, but many novices confuse airless (high pressure) with High Volume Air/Low Volume Material (paint) or simply an air gun.

I must take issue with your statement. Certainly Airless is designed to spray latex or oil. Some sprayers are better than other, but as long as it can push a minimum .17 tip, it can spray latex.

HVLP sprayers (cup type sprayers) can, and do spray latex/waterborne with great ease. Granted, some lower end sprayers are unable to atomize the material adequatly, but that does not mean that all air sprayers are not suitable for spraying latex. (as you state)

If he is using a compressor, and spraying with a cup, that presents some other difficulties, but it can be done. This setup would be the least desirable for spraying latex.

Spraying in an occupied home is not a problem as long as proper prep is done. Use plastic sheeting to isolate area, and its no more problematic than rolling.

Spraying in an occupied home is not a problem as long as proper prep is done. Use plastic sheeting to isolate area, and its no more problematic than rolling.


I have to disagree with this, it is no where near as easy as simply rolling.

I used a Wagner power painter and taped off, had plastic sheeting and was very careful. The spray still got on light fixtures, under the tape, onto window trim, etc.

I would say this is a job best left to a very experienced DIYer or a professional.

Let the stuff dry for a few days then sand it. Don't use any pressure on the sander or you'll melt and tear the paint. I'd prime it to even the surface and then roll on the paint. I'd use a small 1/4" nap roller and work carefully to avoid adding to the orange peel.

Advertising to the contrary, a Wagner Power Painter is only suitable for staining fences or painting sheds. They spit splatter and generally produce an uneven finish.

I used a Wagner power painter and taped off, had plastic sheeting and was very careful. The spray still got on light fixtures, under the tape, onto window trim, etc.



Even using better spray equipment there is still need to carefully protect everything which is why IMO it is seldom a good idea to spray an occupied dwelling. Often the job can be brushed and rolled in the time spent getting it ready for spray.

A 1/4" nap is really to short for wall, using a 3/8" nap will be faster and easier and shouldn't significantly add any more orange peel than the 1/4"

Ok, I will amend my answer, as it was a bit unclear.

Spraying in an occupied building is more difficult than simply rolling. Agreed.

However, perhaps I was thinking that the prep would include removing all furnishings, light fixtures, flooring (or covering properly, but best if not installed). I would agree that for a simple repaint in an occupied room w/furnishings, spray would be my last choice.

I am thinking total repaint/ bare room. In this case, plastic film over doors, and windows is sufficient to keep spray from migrating to other areas.

2nd. Have any of you tried the spray roller attachment? It is a special roller that attaches to an airless rig. Instead of a spray pattern, the paint oozes out of the roller head, and saturates the roller. Ceilings are a breeze as you never need to dip your roller. If you need more, you press the trigger. Again, do not compare to retail junk, this is pro equipment.

Hope this clears up my earlier statement.

I agree that this is a case where the equipment & prep would have made all the difference.

I'm going to go with the old fashioned elbow grease and rough sand, then repaint with a roller(didn't like the color in the end anyway).

Thanks for all the input.

I'm going to go with the old fashioned elbow grease and rough sand, then repaint with a roller
That sounds like a good plan

Well, I am finally getting around to doing this.

One item I forgot to mention is that before painting I removed a large section of peeling paint (2x4) where mold had penetrated under the surface.

After I sand, can I skim coat just the low spots or should I skim the entire bathroom?.

Do you recommend priming before painting or will a quality interior paint designed for bathrooms be sufficient?

I don't want to have to paint again for a long time.

Thanks.

First you must kill the mold
A bleach/water mix or X-14 will take care of that (if you haven't already)

Then, prime any exposed drywall (if any)
Then skim coat the low parts to blend and sand smooth
Dust off fully
Prime the entire room with Zinsser's Bullseye 1-2-3
Paint with quality bathroom paint