Insulation, Radiant and Vapor Barriers - Garage Door Insulation???
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b19
10-11-06, 10:18 PM
Just got new garage door installed and need to insulate it as winter is right around the corner.
Any ideas to what type?
Garage is standard (from the inside) - 16 panels - Each panel is apx. 1 3/4" depth, 47" width, 21" height.
Saw a friends garage who did it and I think saw he just pink styrofoam panels that I believe he got at home depot but can't be sure.
Anyway, any thoughts on what I should get and sizes. - Thanks
Any ideas to what type?
Garage is standard (from the inside) - 16 panels - Each panel is apx. 1 3/4" depth, 47" width, 21" height.
Saw a friends garage who did it and I think saw he just pink styrofoam panels that I believe he got at home depot but can't be sure.
Anyway, any thoughts on what I should get and sizes. - Thanks
chandler
10-12-06, 04:55 AM
That is probably the best bet, even though the styrofoam will be exposed on the inside, if you are careful it should last for years. To install it, I have used Liquid nails for paneling. After cutting to size and installing with the Liquid nails, I carry it one step further by filling the edges with non expanding foam to prevent air infiltration. Use one of the latex brands and it will clean up alot better. You will find there will be alot less vibration and the door will feel more solid.
Concretemasonry
10-12-06, 06:35 AM
Most codes and common sense tell you that you should cover the foam with something like gypsum board. Problem is, it may be too heavy for your door and/or opener.
In any event a good weatherstripping/gasketing of the cracks around the door help a lot.
An insulated door is the best approach since they are designed to insulate and work.
Dick
In any event a good weatherstripping/gasketing of the cracks around the door help a lot.
An insulated door is the best approach since they are designed to insulate and work.
Dick
Ubob
10-12-06, 10:40 AM
My neighbor insulated his steel garage doors using rigid foam (as was suggested earlier), then covered them with plastic sheeting. He got the sheeting from a sign-makers as scrap from misprints (and turned the printed side to the foam). It resembles corregated cardboard, but is made from plastic. Easy to cut and install, and it can be washed off with a hose.
It's on my list of "things to do - eventually".
It's on my list of "things to do - eventually".
b19
10-12-06, 10:56 AM
Most codes and common sense tell you that you should cover the foam with something like gypsum board. Problem is, it may be too heavy for your door and/or opener.Dick
Guessing to fireproof it. Yes that would be wayyyy too heavy to drywall each section of the garage door.
How much of a risk is leaving that styrofoam exposed?
Well maybe since depth is 1 3/4 I get the 1 1/2 that HD sells and leave that extra space for something to cover the foam???
Thanks all!
Guessing to fireproof it. Yes that would be wayyyy too heavy to drywall each section of the garage door.
How much of a risk is leaving that styrofoam exposed?
Well maybe since depth is 1 3/4 I get the 1 1/2 that HD sells and leave that extra space for something to cover the foam???
Thanks all!
Concretemasonry
10-12-06, 12:37 PM
Definitely a safety problem. You don't leave exposed foam in a room full of flammables!
If you personally are very brave and don't care about others, then you can do it.
When you go to sell, it will be a definite red flag even if you do not have a building code since it is a safety issue. When this is the case, codes have no importance. When it is caught by a home inspector or buyer, you will have to remove it or adjust your price downward.
The most obvious material to protect the foam with would be gysum board, but as you recognize it is too heavy for a lightweight door and lighweight operator. I am not aware of anything else that is really cost effective.
Are you sure your really need an insulated door after you correct any leakage (workshop maybe?)? Your home is insulated and your car is used outside.
Dick
If you personally are very brave and don't care about others, then you can do it.
When you go to sell, it will be a definite red flag even if you do not have a building code since it is a safety issue. When this is the case, codes have no importance. When it is caught by a home inspector or buyer, you will have to remove it or adjust your price downward.
The most obvious material to protect the foam with would be gysum board, but as you recognize it is too heavy for a lightweight door and lighweight operator. I am not aware of anything else that is really cost effective.
Are you sure your really need an insulated door after you correct any leakage (workshop maybe?)? Your home is insulated and your car is used outside.
Dick
Ed Imeduc
10-12-06, 01:03 PM
The new garage door I just put in. Had insulation in it. Polystyene with a very heavy white poly on its garage side. You could check at a hvac shop and see what they have in the insulated ductboard that we use for ducts. Glue it in and it has a silver V/B cover on it.
ED;)
ED;)
b19
10-12-06, 06:06 PM
Concretemasonry, you make good points. It's not really that big of a deal to me now that I think about it. This summer I finsihed the entire garage with new insulation and new 5/8 drywall so that is all good.
Don't work in the garage so I guess your right. No need to mess with putting something up (foam) only to have to take it all down at some point.
In retrospect, I should of paid the extra money for the insulated garage door. I think it was like $200 more for the one with the most insulation. Bad call on my part. Oh well, live and learn.
Maybe I'll find another solution that is not dangerous.
Don't work in the garage so I guess your right. No need to mess with putting something up (foam) only to have to take it all down at some point.
In retrospect, I should of paid the extra money for the insulated garage door. I think it was like $200 more for the one with the most insulation. Bad call on my part. Oh well, live and learn.
Maybe I'll find another solution that is not dangerous.