Carpentry and Woodworking - Loadbearing wall?

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wallyp
10-10-06, 09:57 PM
I already did the door frameing. Last year i rerouted the electrical
cord that was going thru the studs just for this project. Anyways
i framed the opening, and just removed "1" stud (no more removed)
while i had the drywall off i looked up the wall area and seen 2 2x4"s for a top plate. The top plate runs parallel to the joists in the attic so i don't think it's loadbearing, just want to know if i did it right. Thanks


chandler
10-11-06, 04:32 AM
Running parallel to the floor joists is a good indicator it is not a load bearing wall. In addition, if there was no header, and only two top plates, it would seem to be ok. Now with all the disclaimers available, get someone to look at it to make sure you don't need additional support for your application. Remember, we are not looking at what you are looking at, and don't want to give bad information.

nycemsmedic
10-19-06, 08:07 PM
how about if 1 joist is running under the 2x4 of the wall, and there is 1 on each side of the joist under the wall....not sistered but 4" on each side all running parallel. also would you still brace the ceiling anyway before you knock the wall out?


chandler
10-20-06, 04:55 AM
Medic, not sure if I follow your scenario. Is your existing wall running parallel to the ceiling joists, or perpendicular to it? By having a 2x4 on either side of the joist, that tells me it is perpendicular. And in that case you will have to brace it while you put in a header to support it all.

nycemsmedic
10-20-06, 12:39 PM
sorry larry, no every thing runs parrell. in the basement the joists for the floor above have 3 2x8 not sistered together but running along side of each other, about 3-4 inches apart from eachother. the joists are 16oc but when you come to where the wall is above you thats when there are 3 joists all parell to eachother. above this is the wall that i want to take down. the way its framed is two 2x4 on top and two 2x4 on the bottom with studs 12" apart.

chandler
10-20-06, 04:36 PM
NO, this is load bearing. You have a two story house sitting on top of this basement, don't you? This wall cannot be removed. 12" OC is required on a two story house where the studs are 2x4. Are you going to install a door, or what?

nycemsmedic
10-20-06, 06:52 PM
ok the wall is 12' long. there is a entry to the dining room from the kitchen. i wanted to remove from the entry to the adjourning wall which is perpendicular to the wall i want to alter. this is a 6' span. build a temp wall to brace the original wall. then cut the studs 1.5' down from ceiling, removing everything from that point to the floor. on the ends of the opening add a full length stud (2x4) and 2 additional 2x4s to attach the header on each side glue and nail those together. the header is 2 2x10 sandwiched with 1/2" ply in the middle, glued and nailed. this will give me 2.5' down from the ceiling. then cabinets and counter top in the space created. ok does this sound right? am i forgetting anything?

chandler
10-21-06, 04:38 AM
I believe you have it covered. Make sure you have jack studs for the header to sit on, place a 1/2" piece of plywood in your header sandwich. This will not only give you the proper width, it will give vertical shear strength that dimension lumber won't. After you build your support wall, have shims ready and drive them in at points along the top plate of the support wall to make sure it is tight and won't allow sagging while you are building your header, etc. Good luck!

wallyp
10-21-06, 06:47 PM
I finished putting in the door from the master bedroom to the 1/2
bathroom. Now i am looking at 1 of the other bedroom doors, that
could stand to be replaced, it's a 30" door but the door only measures 29.750" ?. It's in a load bearing area (the wall runs perpendicular to the attic joists), but it's a hall way wall, that only runs for half the length of the house, the other hallway wall runs
the full length, it's above the basement "I" beam, so i'm pretty sure
it is loadbearing, but what about the door way wall?

nycemsmedic
10-21-06, 08:15 PM
sorry to cut in.....just wanna say thanks chandler, i needed that extra confidance. ty ty ty ( 0:

chandler
10-22-06, 03:10 PM
Wallyp: There should already be headers installed if you are replacing doors, so you should have not problem.

wallyp
10-22-06, 05:24 PM
Thanks Chandler, you sure know you onions about carpentry.
wallyp