Painting - should I go popcorn on walls?
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AllonMyOwn
10-03-06, 08:42 PM
I just had the wallpaper stripped from two bathrooms. We tried really hard to do it carefully, but chunks of the wall came off. SO then we added some more layers of plaster to smooth them out, but of course it's uneven. Even after sanding.
I understand popcorn is out of style, but what do you do when your walls aren't even?
I understand popcorn is out of style, but what do you do when your walls aren't even?
Greybeard
10-03-06, 08:51 PM
You texture them.
For small projects they sell cans of "orange peel texture" that you can spray on to match the rest. For larger areas they have small texture sprayers that work off of a compressor, and for full size projects you'd want to hire someone to come in and do it for you.
For small projects they sell cans of "orange peel texture" that you can spray on to match the rest. For larger areas they have small texture sprayers that work off of a compressor, and for full size projects you'd want to hire someone to come in and do it for you.
slickshift
10-04-06, 04:56 AM
or faux plaster (swirls and such)
or re-drywall
I wouldn't do popcorn though
IMO looks pretty cheesy on walls
or re-drywall
I wouldn't do popcorn though
IMO looks pretty cheesy on walls
marksr
10-04-06, 06:33 AM
You don't want popcorn on walls!!! I've only seen it once and it wasn't pretty [imho]
I would suggest working on getting the repairs right. Even with texture uneven repairs can show. This is magnified when you use enamel - which needs to be used in bath rms. Satin/eggshell enamel has the least sheen and won't show defects as bad as the glossier enamels.
The heavier the texture the more defects it will hide. A splatter coat or knock down will hide a little more than orange peel will.
I would suggest working on getting the repairs right. Even with texture uneven repairs can show. This is magnified when you use enamel - which needs to be used in bath rms. Satin/eggshell enamel has the least sheen and won't show defects as bad as the glossier enamels.
The heavier the texture the more defects it will hide. A splatter coat or knock down will hide a little more than orange peel will.
bigfred
10-04-06, 10:04 AM
"...chunks of the wall came off...it's uneven..."
Another thought comes to mind, depending on the circumstances (like how many uneven areas there are). I'd consider cutting out the bad areas of sheetrock and putting in new pieces. Would make sure the new pieces go over studs even if I had to cut them bigger that visually necessary. Would cut new pieces out from new sheet of sheetrock first, hold them up to wall, trace around outside, then cut out the old stuff with hole cutter saw with drill blade set to depth of sheetrock. I'd also screw some scrap backer boards along any edges (first through sheetrock just outside hole then through adjacent new sheetrock once it's in place) that needed additional support.
Hope this is useful to you.
Another thought comes to mind, depending on the circumstances (like how many uneven areas there are). I'd consider cutting out the bad areas of sheetrock and putting in new pieces. Would make sure the new pieces go over studs even if I had to cut them bigger that visually necessary. Would cut new pieces out from new sheet of sheetrock first, hold them up to wall, trace around outside, then cut out the old stuff with hole cutter saw with drill blade set to depth of sheetrock. I'd also screw some scrap backer boards along any edges (first through sheetrock just outside hole then through adjacent new sheetrock once it's in place) that needed additional support.
Hope this is useful to you.
BobF
10-04-06, 05:50 PM
You wouldn't like popcorn walls, especially in a bathroom.
If by "chunks, you mean pieces of gypsum (or actual plaster):
Get a bigger drywall knife, at least several inches wider than the widest "chunk". If the "chunks were really deep, it will take several layers of mud to make them smooth. If the "chunks" are really wide, use drywall tape or mesh to bridge the gap.
If by "chunks" you mean strips of the outer layer of drywall paper then just use an 8 inch drywall knife.
Use a sanding screen, not sandpaper, and wrap it around a block of wood to keep a flat surface. A damp sanding sponge may help, too.
If by "chunks, you mean pieces of gypsum (or actual plaster):
Get a bigger drywall knife, at least several inches wider than the widest "chunk". If the "chunks were really deep, it will take several layers of mud to make them smooth. If the "chunks" are really wide, use drywall tape or mesh to bridge the gap.
If by "chunks" you mean strips of the outer layer of drywall paper then just use an 8 inch drywall knife.
Use a sanding screen, not sandpaper, and wrap it around a block of wood to keep a flat surface. A damp sanding sponge may help, too.