Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - base for a shed

I'm erecting an 8'x10' shed in backyard close to property line. Next yard is ~ 3' higher; a retaining wall runs along property line so my yard a bit wetter at times. Neighbour suggested digging down ~ 1' & using about 8" of "A-base" (compactable gravel) for support topped with ~ 3" of loose gravel for water dispersion. Then build a 8'x10' frame using pressure treated 4x4's on the loose gravel to support the floor of the shed. The top of the 4x4's would be ~ 1" higher than the ground. Please confirm this plan. How do I fasten the 4x4's in the frame? Toe-nail long nails, pre drill then use lag bolts? I want a stable, secure & dry shed before winter. All suggestions welcome. Thanks.

Dmenace,

How long are you going to stay in the house? How often do you want to replace the floor in the shed?

I ask because wood and moist or wet soil simply don't mix. (The wood is gonna lose EVERY time!!)

If you are planning on staying a while, put the shed on a concrete slab.

Dmenace -

You are making it very complicated.

You are talking about digging out 12" of soil to be hauled away and then brining in about 12" more material and then building a temporary frame partially below grade and end up only 1" above grade in a yard you said is wet. That is a lot of material, wheel barrows, time and fuel.

Your wood willl rot, your nails will rust and critters will find every opening and live where they want.

Scrape off a little soil, add a couple inches of gravel and pour a slab with a top high enough to keep it from your neighbors runoff. You will have a solid floor you can keep clean.

Dick

A pad that is 8x10, 3 1/2" thick would take just a hair over 2 yards of cement. At $60 per yard, pouring a slab sounds a lot easier to me than digging and hauling rock. :)

However, some sheds I have seen are built on treated 4x4 "skids" which can be picked up with a forklift, or dragged into place. So if the shed won't be permanent, I can see why you might want to build it on 4x4's and just ensure it has some drainage around it.

While I agree that a slab is the best way to go, in my area a shed on a slab is considered a permanent outbuilding for assessment. A shed resting on gravel is considered temporary. Most people in my area have built their sheds on gravel.
Another option is a shed built on concrete posts using sonotubes leveled a bit above grade.

XSleeper,

Not to be picky, but check your math. An 8 X 10 slab at 4" thick is a yard of concrete, not 2. And $60 a yard?? Wish I could get it for that. It's about $110 a yard around here! (Guess that's the price we pay for living on the left coast!!)

thanks for the replies. I plan to sell the house within 2 yrs. Shed is plastic walled with (plastic?) floor;~ 4 hr to erect. Agree that concrete slab surface above the ground is best solution if I had more time in this house. Wanted something quick but workable with press treated 4x4 floor supports out of sitting water. I'll check with city on tax rules re permanent vs temporary, Planned to rent small gas pwr packer from the ABase supplier & hoped to finish gravel base above the Spring ground water. Will also contact concrete contractor on price- late Sept. means ground starting to harden here. thanks again.