Doors and Windows - replacing a sliding glass door with a window
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lonelyangel
08-31-06, 07:19 AM
please give me some input on how to frame this up for a window
XSleeper
08-31-06, 11:58 AM
What sized window?
Sometimes, the header height of a patio door will be a little lower than the header height of the other windows. If you plan on installing the window right under your exisiting header, then it's easy.
After you remove the old patio door, lay a sole plate on the floor, ensuring you seal underneath it with some construction adhesive. Determine the width of your rough opening (usually 1" larger than your window) and mark it's location on the header. To the left, right, center, wherever you want the window to be.
Frame in below the exisiting header, first installing a stud on the left and right sides of the patio door opening (again, seal the studs on the sides with construction adhesive to prevent air infiltration) Then install 2 studs together on the left and right sides of the window opening, making sure they are straight up and down (plumb). Install a subsill on the bottom of the window opening, ensuring that it is level. Support this subsill underneath each end with a cripple that extends down to the sill plate.
Once you have done that framing, I like to find an existing stud in the existing wall, and mark your framing layout on 16" centers based on that. That just makes it easier for anyone in the future- so that they won't be suprised by an odd framing layout if they need to locate a stud for some reason.
If you have a floor register in front of your patio door, I'd suggest that you center the window over the floor register. Often, they are so located so as to warm the window in the wintertime and that helps avoid window condensation in cold temps.
Sheet the outside, installing the sheathing over the window opening. Then cut out the sheathing that covers the window opening with a reciprocating saw. Apply some building paper over the sheathing and you're ready for a window. Center it in the opening and support it with shims on all sides, ensuring it is square before attaching it through the nailing flange.
Sometimes, the header height of a patio door will be a little lower than the header height of the other windows. If you plan on installing the window right under your exisiting header, then it's easy.
After you remove the old patio door, lay a sole plate on the floor, ensuring you seal underneath it with some construction adhesive. Determine the width of your rough opening (usually 1" larger than your window) and mark it's location on the header. To the left, right, center, wherever you want the window to be.
Frame in below the exisiting header, first installing a stud on the left and right sides of the patio door opening (again, seal the studs on the sides with construction adhesive to prevent air infiltration) Then install 2 studs together on the left and right sides of the window opening, making sure they are straight up and down (plumb). Install a subsill on the bottom of the window opening, ensuring that it is level. Support this subsill underneath each end with a cripple that extends down to the sill plate.
Once you have done that framing, I like to find an existing stud in the existing wall, and mark your framing layout on 16" centers based on that. That just makes it easier for anyone in the future- so that they won't be suprised by an odd framing layout if they need to locate a stud for some reason.
If you have a floor register in front of your patio door, I'd suggest that you center the window over the floor register. Often, they are so located so as to warm the window in the wintertime and that helps avoid window condensation in cold temps.
Sheet the outside, installing the sheathing over the window opening. Then cut out the sheathing that covers the window opening with a reciprocating saw. Apply some building paper over the sheathing and you're ready for a window. Center it in the opening and support it with shims on all sides, ensuring it is square before attaching it through the nailing flange.