Air Conditioning - A/C man need advice from other professionals...
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : A/C man need advice from other professionals...
acman-south
08-20-06, 12:53 PM
allright just (2 weeks ago) installed a new trane 19seer 2 speed Heat Pump system...
last night, noticed water stain on ceiling, went into attic and primary drain was clogged, I added Trane's household air cleaner called Cleaneffects to back of airhandler, well the very back seam was missing my secondary pan and going on to decking to sheetrock, etc... well Im going to make a extension to cover that in case happens again, but here is my dilemma... underside of air handler condensating considerably... I eliminated any kind of dew point problem because no ducts, my plenum or rest of air handler sweating only underneath air handler... now I figure this could be
a> when drain was plugged water also ran back into my blow compartment wetting the insulation and it needs time to dry...
b> its a twe049 variable drive, Ive got it set up for 400cfm... Im using 18" flex (about 10 feet to connect return air ceiling bonnet with return air plenum).. I plan on adding another return air closer to master bdrm, probably another 12" flex line... until I do this could it be possible my fpm is too high on my return side therefore actually sucking water off the a coil as it rolls down? I know you want about a maximum of 550 fpm on your return side..
now so far today I left home for 3 hours... to try to help dry insullation inside air handler I set in on high speed and killed power to the condenser... in that 3 hour period my humidity rose about 20%, which would indicate that I am adding moisture to the air so the air handler should have dried out a tad, at the least...
given this info, anyone have any ideas? ( please other professionals only)... I know alot of this high efficiency equipment is new ( which is why I try it out in my home first in case of any problems)...
but on a 4ton even with your 15% friciton loss using flex for my return.. I think 18" should be large enough to where I am not blowing water off my a-coil...
now if it was just from the plugged drain.. I would imagine when I go to work everyday, killing the condenser and just letting my fan run on high speed should dry it out fairly swiftly...
MY house if fairly tight fiberglass bats in walls, blown in cellulose in attic, holes caulked... so I know Im not really getting too much migration from outside as far as humidity is concerned...
also no power ventilators I just have a continuous ridge vent..
thanks
Billy
last night, noticed water stain on ceiling, went into attic and primary drain was clogged, I added Trane's household air cleaner called Cleaneffects to back of airhandler, well the very back seam was missing my secondary pan and going on to decking to sheetrock, etc... well Im going to make a extension to cover that in case happens again, but here is my dilemma... underside of air handler condensating considerably... I eliminated any kind of dew point problem because no ducts, my plenum or rest of air handler sweating only underneath air handler... now I figure this could be
a> when drain was plugged water also ran back into my blow compartment wetting the insulation and it needs time to dry...
b> its a twe049 variable drive, Ive got it set up for 400cfm... Im using 18" flex (about 10 feet to connect return air ceiling bonnet with return air plenum).. I plan on adding another return air closer to master bdrm, probably another 12" flex line... until I do this could it be possible my fpm is too high on my return side therefore actually sucking water off the a coil as it rolls down? I know you want about a maximum of 550 fpm on your return side..
now so far today I left home for 3 hours... to try to help dry insullation inside air handler I set in on high speed and killed power to the condenser... in that 3 hour period my humidity rose about 20%, which would indicate that I am adding moisture to the air so the air handler should have dried out a tad, at the least...
given this info, anyone have any ideas? ( please other professionals only)... I know alot of this high efficiency equipment is new ( which is why I try it out in my home first in case of any problems)...
but on a 4ton even with your 15% friciton loss using flex for my return.. I think 18" should be large enough to where I am not blowing water off my a-coil...
now if it was just from the plugged drain.. I would imagine when I go to work everyday, killing the condenser and just letting my fan run on high speed should dry it out fairly swiftly...
MY house if fairly tight fiberglass bats in walls, blown in cellulose in attic, holes caulked... so I know Im not really getting too much migration from outside as far as humidity is concerned...
also no power ventilators I just have a continuous ridge vent..
thanks
Billy
Ed Imeduc
08-20-06, 01:49 PM
noticed water stain on ceiling, went into attic and primary drain was clogged, I added Trane's household air cleaner called Cleaneffects to back of airhandler,
In just 2 week how???? P trap ok drains to out side of home??? Is that side plate for horz in ok?
its a twe049 variable drive, Ive got it set up for 400cfm... Im using 18" flex (about 10 feet to connect) For 4 ton you need 1800 cfm did it ice up on you????
to try to help dry insullation inside air handler I set in on high speed and killed power to the condenser... in that 3 hour period my humidity rose about 20%, which would indicate that I am adding moisture to the air so the air handler should have dried out a tad, at the least...
Did you put in the humidistat to jump R to BK to slow the blower down to lower the humidity in the home??
2 speed Heat Pump system...
We stay away from them for heatpumps. Dont work to good . Work just fine for just AC. That way can go with the R22 with the Xl15i and get the tax credit for it and the V/S blower.
ED
In just 2 week how???? P trap ok drains to out side of home??? Is that side plate for horz in ok?
its a twe049 variable drive, Ive got it set up for 400cfm... Im using 18" flex (about 10 feet to connect) For 4 ton you need 1800 cfm did it ice up on you????
to try to help dry insullation inside air handler I set in on high speed and killed power to the condenser... in that 3 hour period my humidity rose about 20%, which would indicate that I am adding moisture to the air so the air handler should have dried out a tad, at the least...
Did you put in the humidistat to jump R to BK to slow the blower down to lower the humidity in the home??
2 speed Heat Pump system...
We stay away from them for heatpumps. Dont work to good . Work just fine for just AC. That way can go with the R22 with the Xl15i and get the tax credit for it and the V/S blower.
ED
acman-south
08-20-06, 02:04 PM
humidistat is in to lower speed fine... in louisiana cant drain primary outside need to drain into plumbing stacking... when changed system blew drain at coil, after finding plugged up, cut if closer to trap and used water instead of compressed air... going to rerun whole 3/4 pvc pipe and go with 1" all the way to ptrap... again it was a shoddy installation Im trying to clean up...
acman-south
08-20-06, 02:05 PM
no moving 1800 cfm on the 4 ton, pressures fine, no icing problems...
Ed Imeduc
08-20-06, 03:18 PM
The P trap is right by the coil drain outlet???
ED
ED
acman-south
08-20-06, 05:09 PM
comes out coil, instead of 90s I like 45s... so it runs underneath return air, drops about 4 feets... go straight another 6 feet takes two 45s turn it , and its run two more feet to a trap cut into a bathroom stack... sloped nicely but I think there is a bunch of hardened buildup in drain line.. you know the kind you chisel out ;).. so Im just going to replace the line...