Kitchen Gas Appliances - magic chef igniter problem
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tap8
07-16-06, 07:30 PM
I've got a magic chef gas stove, probably 15 years old that came with the condo I just bought.
Three burners work just great.
One of them (front right) won't light. When I turn to "lite" I don't get clicking. There is plenty of gas flow as I can light with a match or by lighting the back right burner.
Since both burners on a side share an igniter I am assuming there is an electrical problem somewhere, and I should carefully check the wiring from knob of the faulty burner to the igniter.
Any disagreements with this diagnosis? Also - is it worth the effort. I don't see any easy way to inspect/replace the wiring without a fair amount of work. Given the other burners are functional and it is not too difficult to light this one - is this an easy repair?
Many thanks.
Three burners work just great.
One of them (front right) won't light. When I turn to "lite" I don't get clicking. There is plenty of gas flow as I can light with a match or by lighting the back right burner.
Since both burners on a side share an igniter I am assuming there is an electrical problem somewhere, and I should carefully check the wiring from knob of the faulty burner to the igniter.
Any disagreements with this diagnosis? Also - is it worth the effort. I don't see any easy way to inspect/replace the wiring without a fair amount of work. Given the other burners are functional and it is not too difficult to light this one - is this an easy repair?
Many thanks.
Sharp Advice
07-16-06, 10:23 PM
Hello tap8 and Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic.
Chances are the switch, located on the valve stem of the gas valve, to that burner is defective. If you have an OHM meter, unplug the appliance or turn off the electrical power to it and do a continuity test the valve.
Here is one way to accomplish that. Disconnect the two wire quick disconnects to the switch. Insert one end , alligator clip end, to the switch. Either end or side is fine. Insert the probe end into the other and of the switch.
Set meter to test for continuity, and turn valve on to light position. Meter needle should swing all the way to right side of scale. If it does not do so, switch is defective.
Lift switch off valve stem and replace. Can also do test with switch off stem. Removal is easy and install like wise easy. Can also continuity test wiring to igniter from switch.
Sparker may also be defective and or dirty. Not connected or ground clip not adjusted, etc. Look for obvious clues about non working sparker and those that do work.
More Help Here:
Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information, Fault Codes & Mfg's Web Site Links http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808
Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be also. They will need the make, model an serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.
***If and or when you attempt any repairs, "Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks whenever the appliance is moved and/or a repair includes any connection of a gas part."
Kindly use the reply button to post all replies, add additional information or ask additional questions when replies are posted. Using this method moves and/or keeps the topic back up to the top of the list of questions automatically and keeps all content on the same subject within one thread.
Web Site Host, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics and Repair Technician.
Personal Driving Safety Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely. "The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
Chances are the switch, located on the valve stem of the gas valve, to that burner is defective. If you have an OHM meter, unplug the appliance or turn off the electrical power to it and do a continuity test the valve.
Here is one way to accomplish that. Disconnect the two wire quick disconnects to the switch. Insert one end , alligator clip end, to the switch. Either end or side is fine. Insert the probe end into the other and of the switch.
Set meter to test for continuity, and turn valve on to light position. Meter needle should swing all the way to right side of scale. If it does not do so, switch is defective.
Lift switch off valve stem and replace. Can also do test with switch off stem. Removal is easy and install like wise easy. Can also continuity test wiring to igniter from switch.
Sparker may also be defective and or dirty. Not connected or ground clip not adjusted, etc. Look for obvious clues about non working sparker and those that do work.
More Help Here:
Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information, Fault Codes & Mfg's Web Site Links http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808
Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be also. They will need the make, model an serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.
***If and or when you attempt any repairs, "Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks whenever the appliance is moved and/or a repair includes any connection of a gas part."
Kindly use the reply button to post all replies, add additional information or ask additional questions when replies are posted. Using this method moves and/or keeps the topic back up to the top of the list of questions automatically and keeps all content on the same subject within one thread.
Web Site Host, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics and Repair Technician.
Personal Driving Safety Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely. "The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
tap8
07-16-06, 10:38 PM
I don't have an ohm meter handy, but your rationale makes sense to me. I now see it would be pretty easy to switch out.
Time is more valuable than money to me right now (at least on the scale we are talking about), so I have ordered a new switch ($20).
It's not the sparker. For the stove I have the two burners on the right side share a sparker - right back burner works just fine.
Time is more valuable than money to me right now (at least on the scale we are talking about), so I have ordered a new switch ($20).
It's not the sparker. For the stove I have the two burners on the right side share a sparker - right back burner works just fine.
tap8
07-22-06, 02:19 PM
Ordered new switch, they came in during the week, but I didn't want to disable the stove. $15, they came in a four pack.
Simple easy repair, done in ten minutes or so.
Pulled to stove from the wall. Unplugged and turned off the gas at the cutoff valve.
Took off the burners, the stovetop, and pulled off the knobs. Unscrewed the 4 screws on the top, two on the bottom.
Pulled off the troublesome switch, and wiggled out the wires (took a couple of pulls but them came out) - put the wires in the new switch and put everything back together.
All in all a success. Now I need to do is fix the drawers that stick...:)
Simple easy repair, done in ten minutes or so.
Pulled to stove from the wall. Unplugged and turned off the gas at the cutoff valve.
Took off the burners, the stovetop, and pulled off the knobs. Unscrewed the 4 screws on the top, two on the bottom.
Pulled off the troublesome switch, and wiggled out the wires (took a couple of pulls but them came out) - put the wires in the new switch and put everything back together.
All in all a success. Now I need to do is fix the drawers that stick...:)