Kitchen Gas Appliances - Gas oven - lighting and odor problem
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Gas oven - lighting and odor problem
UConnJack
07-10-06, 08:25 PM
I have a Magic Chef gas range model 34GA-2CKX. I have had problem with consistent baking, and based on info from this forum, I'm guessing it's the ignitor, and possibly the valve.
My question is - is there any way to tell if the valve is bad before replacing the ingitor first? The element does eventually light, but it takes a while (_much_ longer that the broiler), and it sometimes a very weak flame that I can easily blow out. Taping on the element sometimes improves the flame. I also get occasional gas odors in the kitchen, sometimes while the oven is on, sometimes when nothing is being used.
It seems that the valve is sticking or not opening properly (and sometimed satying open after the oven is turned off), but is this likely due to a bad ignitor only, or a bad valve too? Something curious, the valve for this oven is a dual valve for both baking and the broiler (which works fine). Does this suggest that the valve is OK?
Just trying to decide how much I'm willing to replace vs. buying a new range (ignitors are cheap, but the valve is over $100).
Thanks.
My question is - is there any way to tell if the valve is bad before replacing the ingitor first? The element does eventually light, but it takes a while (_much_ longer that the broiler), and it sometimes a very weak flame that I can easily blow out. Taping on the element sometimes improves the flame. I also get occasional gas odors in the kitchen, sometimes while the oven is on, sometimes when nothing is being used.
It seems that the valve is sticking or not opening properly (and sometimed satying open after the oven is turned off), but is this likely due to a bad ignitor only, or a bad valve too? Something curious, the valve for this oven is a dual valve for both baking and the broiler (which works fine). Does this suggest that the valve is OK?
Just trying to decide how much I'm willing to replace vs. buying a new range (ignitors are cheap, but the valve is over $100).
Thanks.
Sharp Advice
07-10-06, 08:39 PM
Hello UConnJack. Welcome to Gas Appliances topic and our Do-It-Yourself Web Site.
Based upon the problems described, the igniter and the valve both should be replaced. Usually done this way anyway. Or done so by service agents whom learned the hard way...LOL
When the igniter takes a longer time to glow to it's fullest brightness, it's weak. Replacing it may resolve the problem for now but not based upon the odor when oven not on and the small burner flames at times.
Most likely the valve is sticking. Either sticking slightly open causing odor when oven not in use and not opening fully when oven is in use. Best to replace both HSI & valve.
Still far less to fix existing appliance than buying entire new appliance, or so I would think. But that's a decision I cannot offer you advise on. IMO, fix it.
Retail parts dealers and appliances parts stores can also help determine what the possible problem may be based upon that specific brand and model. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Dealers and appliances parts stores are listed in the phone book.
Cautionary Reminder Note:
Before attempting any repairs, be sure to unplug the appliance from the wall receptacle power source first.
Help Link: Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Sites: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808
Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using the reply button keeps or moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically and keeps all communications on this subject in one thread.
Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
PS:
If you are living in the UConn, (YUKON) may explain why the parts cost more. Dog sledding in anything costs more....:D :)
Based upon the problems described, the igniter and the valve both should be replaced. Usually done this way anyway. Or done so by service agents whom learned the hard way...LOL
When the igniter takes a longer time to glow to it's fullest brightness, it's weak. Replacing it may resolve the problem for now but not based upon the odor when oven not on and the small burner flames at times.
Most likely the valve is sticking. Either sticking slightly open causing odor when oven not in use and not opening fully when oven is in use. Best to replace both HSI & valve.
Still far less to fix existing appliance than buying entire new appliance, or so I would think. But that's a decision I cannot offer you advise on. IMO, fix it.
Retail parts dealers and appliances parts stores can also help determine what the possible problem may be based upon that specific brand and model. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Dealers and appliances parts stores are listed in the phone book.
Cautionary Reminder Note:
Before attempting any repairs, be sure to unplug the appliance from the wall receptacle power source first.
Help Link: Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Sites: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808
Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using the reply button keeps or moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically and keeps all communications on this subject in one thread.
Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
PS:
If you are living in the UConn, (YUKON) may explain why the parts cost more. Dog sledding in anything costs more....:D :)
UConnJack
07-10-06, 09:06 PM
Thanks. I had a feeling that was likely the case. Ingiter is ~$60 and valve is ~$120, so about $180 total. Fixing is cheaper, but can buy an inexpensive range for $300, so may consider just buying a new clean unit. May be on the cheap side, but will look nice, have a warranty, and should work OK for a few years until we totally remodel the kitchen anyway with good stuff.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
UConnJack
07-10-06, 09:14 PM
Just noticed your UConn/YUKON comment :) . No, went to the University of Connecticut (UConn), and my name is Jack, so just a fun double entendre reflecting one of my favorite college drinks......
mbk3
07-14-06, 09:37 PM
I have a Magic Chef gas range model 34GA-2CKX. I have had problem with consistent baking, and based on info from this forum, I'm guessing it's the ignitor, and possibly the valve.
My question is - is there any way to tell if the valve is bad before replacing the ingitor first? The element does eventually light, but it takes a while (_much_ longer that the broiler), and it sometimes a very weak flame that I can easily blow out. Taping on the element sometimes improves the flame. I also get occasional gas odors in the kitchen, sometimes while the oven is on, sometimes when nothing is being used.
It seems that the valve is sticking or not opening properly (and sometimed satying open after the oven is turned off), but is this likely due to a bad ignitor only, or a bad valve too? Something curious, the valve for this oven is a dual valve for both baking and the broiler (which works fine). Does this suggest that the valve is OK?
Just trying to decide how much I'm willing to replace vs. buying a new range (ignitors are cheap, but the valve is over $100).
Thanks.
When igniter becomes weak, the valve is either slow to open or doesn't open. When slow, at times not enough gas comes to burner to provide ignition. When this happens you will get a gas odor.. Normally replacing igniter corrects problem. Very seldom do valves need replacing, has been my experience. Also shop around for igniter. prices all over the board. Good luck
My question is - is there any way to tell if the valve is bad before replacing the ingitor first? The element does eventually light, but it takes a while (_much_ longer that the broiler), and it sometimes a very weak flame that I can easily blow out. Taping on the element sometimes improves the flame. I also get occasional gas odors in the kitchen, sometimes while the oven is on, sometimes when nothing is being used.
It seems that the valve is sticking or not opening properly (and sometimed satying open after the oven is turned off), but is this likely due to a bad ignitor only, or a bad valve too? Something curious, the valve for this oven is a dual valve for both baking and the broiler (which works fine). Does this suggest that the valve is OK?
Just trying to decide how much I'm willing to replace vs. buying a new range (ignitors are cheap, but the valve is over $100).
Thanks.
When igniter becomes weak, the valve is either slow to open or doesn't open. When slow, at times not enough gas comes to burner to provide ignition. When this happens you will get a gas odor.. Normally replacing igniter corrects problem. Very seldom do valves need replacing, has been my experience. Also shop around for igniter. prices all over the board. Good luck