Lighting, Light Fixtures, Ceiling and Exhaust Fans - Convert 2 of 5 recessed lights to ceiling fans
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bladry9
06-20-06, 05:58 PM
Hi there. Hopefully I can explain myself clearly enough.
I currently have 5 recessed light fixtures operating from a single dimmer switch. I want to install two ceiling fans with lights exactly where two of those fixtures are. 4 are in a line across the ceiling, the fifth faces out into a dormer. I can't tell right off the bat where in the run the fifth can actually sits. For humor's sake, let's call them 1-4 (ceiling run... #1 being closest to the switch) and 5 (dormer). Where 2 & 3 are positioned is the ideal place to install two ceiling fans. All five are controlled by a single lutron dimmer which is switched only (power to the fixtures is coming directly to the fixtures, and not from the switch). It's a cape cod, and I have no attic access per se, but it seems feasible to fish new wire down to the location of the existing switch with only minimal drywall repair afterwards.
What I'd like is two ceiling fans with lights (in positions 2 & 3), separately controlled by separate switches in the vicinity of the existing switch. I personally don't care for the recessed lights, but if they were to remain just on their own dimmer as they already are (that I'd never really use) - it would save drywall work covering up the three holes and would leave a light for the dormer.
Here is what I was thinking were my two choices.
One: I have access to an outlet that is not at the end of the run, but looks as though I could install a junction box in line after it and run power up through the wall to where I could find the end in the ceiling, fish two runs to the location of the existing switch, install a gangbox and wire my two switches into the loop there. First, if I did this, does it sound like a good idea to break into the run with a new junction box? And, if I did this, should I make one run to the ceiling, and pigtail power to the second fan from there? Or should I just make two runs from the junction box?
Two: I was thinking there might be a way to tie into the constant already existing where the two fixtures I'd like to replace are, jumping the switched wire between 1 & 4, and then running new wires down to the switch location. Is this possible or am I hallucinating? Is this legal? If it IS possible, could you give me tips on what to do and what NOT to do in this instance (it appears to be easy to secure the jumper wire to either the wood above or tape it to the run of wire that is already above the can supports).
I realize it is also an alternative to hijack the recessed can loop altogether, remove the cans, cap any unused wire, and then repair the holes where the cans were, and run one extra wire for the second switch. It doesn't, however seem like the most efficient alternative.
I've been searching the boards for any similar situations and I can't really find any I can fully relate to. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!
I currently have 5 recessed light fixtures operating from a single dimmer switch. I want to install two ceiling fans with lights exactly where two of those fixtures are. 4 are in a line across the ceiling, the fifth faces out into a dormer. I can't tell right off the bat where in the run the fifth can actually sits. For humor's sake, let's call them 1-4 (ceiling run... #1 being closest to the switch) and 5 (dormer). Where 2 & 3 are positioned is the ideal place to install two ceiling fans. All five are controlled by a single lutron dimmer which is switched only (power to the fixtures is coming directly to the fixtures, and not from the switch). It's a cape cod, and I have no attic access per se, but it seems feasible to fish new wire down to the location of the existing switch with only minimal drywall repair afterwards.
What I'd like is two ceiling fans with lights (in positions 2 & 3), separately controlled by separate switches in the vicinity of the existing switch. I personally don't care for the recessed lights, but if they were to remain just on their own dimmer as they already are (that I'd never really use) - it would save drywall work covering up the three holes and would leave a light for the dormer.
Here is what I was thinking were my two choices.
One: I have access to an outlet that is not at the end of the run, but looks as though I could install a junction box in line after it and run power up through the wall to where I could find the end in the ceiling, fish two runs to the location of the existing switch, install a gangbox and wire my two switches into the loop there. First, if I did this, does it sound like a good idea to break into the run with a new junction box? And, if I did this, should I make one run to the ceiling, and pigtail power to the second fan from there? Or should I just make two runs from the junction box?
Two: I was thinking there might be a way to tie into the constant already existing where the two fixtures I'd like to replace are, jumping the switched wire between 1 & 4, and then running new wires down to the switch location. Is this possible or am I hallucinating? Is this legal? If it IS possible, could you give me tips on what to do and what NOT to do in this instance (it appears to be easy to secure the jumper wire to either the wood above or tape it to the run of wire that is already above the can supports).
I realize it is also an alternative to hijack the recessed can loop altogether, remove the cans, cap any unused wire, and then repair the holes where the cans were, and run one extra wire for the second switch. It doesn't, however seem like the most efficient alternative.
I've been searching the boards for any similar situations and I can't really find any I can fully relate to. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!
ArgMeMatey
06-27-06, 06:22 PM
All five are controlled by a single lutron dimmer which is switched only (power to the fixtures is coming directly to the fixtures, and not from the switch).
Are you still looking for answers?
It appears from your post that each can has a HOT and a SWITCHED HOT in the fixture j-box, which is usually attached to the can frame and accessible when the can shell is removed. This would require a fairly good-sized box rated for feed-through, so this seems unlikely.
If that's not the case, do you mean that the power comes into one can "somewhere" and your dimmer is just a switch loop, with no neutral in the switch box?
Are you still looking for answers?
It appears from your post that each can has a HOT and a SWITCHED HOT in the fixture j-box, which is usually attached to the can frame and accessible when the can shell is removed. This would require a fairly good-sized box rated for feed-through, so this seems unlikely.
If that's not the case, do you mean that the power comes into one can "somewhere" and your dimmer is just a switch loop, with no neutral in the switch box?