Electronic Alarms and Home Security Devices - Cannot get into Programming mode on DSC PC1550

I bought this house about 6months ago and after a few of my renovation projects have been completed I came to the Alarm system they never used and the plug for the panel was out. I repaired that and plugged it in. All zones seem to be in order but could not get a hold of the master code or installer code. So I decided to do an eeprom reset. After doing that I was able to get into some of the options like * 6 (MasterCode) and then the user commands. But everytime I try the * 8 (Installer code of 1500) I just get a long beep after I enter the code, no lights light up. I just simply cannot enter the installer programming section. What am I doing wrong?

Also the * 5 (MasterCode) to add or change User codes, well did that and then 1 and then a new code, and it changed the default master code of 1234. So What the manual shows doesnt seem to be accurate. It says you cannot change the master code of 1234 from the * 5 screen. Now the system is just lit up on all zones and the alarm goes off every 5secs, so I had to unplug it again.

Not sure what Im doing wrong. Any help would be appreciated. Otherwise Im going to have to spend a grip to get this unit replaced.

Dixit

*8 1550 is the default master code on a 1550.

You have to set the master code to be not changeable in the installer programming.

Well tried 1550 and still no go. After reading a few other forums I think the board is locked. One said after an eeprom reset and when you power it up and you hear a series of 10 clicks on the board, then the board is locked and needs to be replaced. Which sucks. Cause no way Im going to find this board.

Time to look for an entirely new security system and keypad.

Dixit

For what you would pay to find a used board these days you can buy your self a new 1555, which is the modern replacement for the one you have. You will need a 5508z keypad to go with it as well.

Im thinking about the new DSC unit that comes with an LCD panel and it can do 6zones and 32 wireless zones. Comes with a siren, batter, panel, lcd, all for about $125.

Dixit

If you are having to start from scratch, you could also consider the Concord express or ultra system. DSC makes good hardware, but many DIY people find their programming and setup syntex to be less than user friendly.

If you are having to start from scratch, you could also consider the Concord express or ultra system. DSC makes good hardware, but many DIY people find their programming and setup syntex to be less than user friendly.

Do you have any links to these products and possibly a cost? Jut wondering where Im pricing myself compared to the DSC hardwired/wireless setup.

Dixit

Just looked, seems like the Express is about $170 for a package and about $300+ for the Ultra. Not sure if Im pricing myself out of where I want to be.

Then thinking more of how I dont think Im going to use many wireless components, at most maybe one PIR or IR. All my doors and windows were already pre-wired and in use with the DSC (that dont work anymore).

Dixit

If you have found parts at a price point you want to work with, then go for it. Just read through the manual thoroughly. DSC doesn't use a very intuitive layout for their manuals, but the information _is_ all there.

Why don't you reset the pannel and program it again?

He tried that, and it's had installer lockout set. That said, I forgot that for the 1500/1550 there is a bypass that works around the lockout on some (but not all) versions:

To reset the installer code to 1500.
With the power on, short the default pins and key in * 8 0000
Remove the short on the default pins and pres 91 to remove the lockout.

press 20, then 1500, then press ## until you are back in runmode.

This only works with the 1500/1550, and even then, not with all versions.

I need some help on my DSC 1550...I recently sent the panel box off to be reset to default, and recieved it back....Now, I need to know what to do next to program it for arming...the manual seems very vague in this area...any help would be greatly appreciated

Reconnect your zone and output wiring. Then do the supervision for your keypad, then program your zones to match your previous configuration.

Check some previous posts in this forum. Many of the basic principals for DSC panels are common, and this model in particular has been discussed repeatedly in the recent past.

Tell us what you are trying to configure the zones to do, and we can be more specific.

I guess im a little confused on programming this....here's my background...anymore helps would be greatly appreciated:

DSC pc 1550...bought a house with this system...want to set it up (unmonitored)....it seemed to be working fine (correct zones lights coming on/etc)...but the installer code was 'locked out' and I didnt have the last owners codes...so I unhooked the panel box (carefully marking all wires) and sent off to be 'reset'...got it back, Hooked back up exactly like it was previously...but now it's not lighting up zones when doors are opened, etc...I can now get into the programming by keying *8 1500....my problem is....what do I do now? what or how do i program the zones???, etc....just for it to do a very very basic burglar alarm, non monitored...I have 3 exit doors (zones 1-2-3), and one motion detector (zone 4)

I am clueless about the 'programming'......Please help


Thanks

joey

First, do you have the installer manual? While we can give you the keystrokes blind, it's a little easier if you have the manual so you have a reference so you can understand what the numbers mean.

Programming a panel means entering the codes that tell the panel how to behave.

There are numerous programming "sections" on a DSC panel. For a typical simple installation, you only enter information in a fairly small number.

Start by reading page 8 of the installer manual so that you can get a grasp of the keystroke sequence of entering the information.

Your zones, for example, you would go to program:

Enter 11 to go to section 11 (zone definitions)
Using the chart in the manual in that section of the programming form in the book; you will enter the following:

00 00 00 03 01 01

press # until you are back in run mode. You will need either 5.6K ohm resistors or wire jumpers on your two unused zones. (Just duplicate your original panel wiring).

Thanks for the reply, and all of your help....I will try the "zone programming" that you gave me....is there anything else that is essential in the programming to make it work , at least basically?....Should I start getting the 'zone' lights when doors are opened, the 'ready' light, etc after I program this part??

I do have the installer program guide downloaded, but it just seemed like alot of sections that were not going to be used, or not needed to be programmed or changed from the default....

Thanks

Joey

You probably will need to turn off the resistor requirement (I think half of the installers buy DSC just to be able to not use resistors), and the dialer, if you are just wanting a "local" system. For these, you turn on options 1 and 5 in section 12.

Assuming that your zone wiring/contacts are ok, you should see the zones open and close.

Thanks for all of your help....I'll let you know how it comes out

Joey

Ive tried everything you said....programmed the zones, etc....still nothing...not getting a "ready" light at all ....I doubled checked the wiring, it is exactly like before...I can even do a 'system test'...and it sets of the syren ok.....Now, I can hit the 0 key or the # key and then the 'bypass', 'trouble' and zone lights '1-4' light up...if I hit *, it goes back to a blank screen...if I open a door...nothing happens

Is there a simple way to test a single zone per say...the wiring or something like that?

I dont understand, because this system was working fine (only I didnt have the code) before I sent it off for the "reset"...(zone lights would light up when a door was opened, got the chimes, etc)

Makes me wonder that when it was "reset" back to default...that now I have to do something else in the programming to get it to work right again,or recognize the 'zones'... but I dont know...im clueless now again...

any other ideas or help would be great...

Thanks

Joey

You never answered one question: Were the resistors installed on the original wiring? This makes a big difference in how you check the zones. The zone loops themselves are easy to check. You simply use any form of continuity tester; a multimeter is best, a test light or even a battery and flashlight bulb will work.

As I said before. If you don't have resistors on the system, a simple wire jumper across the zone terminals should cause the zones to close.

Are you _sure_ that this is a PC1550 and not a PC1555? There is a vast difference in the programming. You keep saying a "blank screen". The PC 1550 dosen't use a keypad with an LCD type screen.

The resisters were installled on the original wiring...I never even removed them when I sent it off to be reset...They were still on there when it came back...I havent even touched them

This is definately a pc 1550....(big label on panel)

When say "blank screen", I meant that all lights were out (sorry)

By pushing the "*" key....all of the lights turn off.....if I push # or 0, the bypass, trouble and 1-4 zones lights come on....but never a "ready" light (unless in programming)

Any other ideas of what it could be or what Im doing wrong?

Thanks again

Joey

Hokay, now we have more specific information.

* is effectively a command key. When you press * the system is waiting for the next digit, like *2 (trouble display)

# eventually takes you to normal run mode (this is all user command stuff)

1-4 is showing because the system sees the zones as open (since you have resistors, the system should be set to require them (section 12 option 5 off). If you are set for the resistors, and the zones still show as open, then you check the zone wiring for continuity, to test the panel inputs, just bridge the zone input to common with a 5.6K ohm resistor.

To find out why the trouble light is lit, press *2 and follow the instructions in the keypad function section of the installer or user manual. Most likely, you need to set the system clock.

Yeah, I figured out how to check the "trouble" light....It is because the backup battery is dead...

So , I just need to test the continuity at the panel???

Would it be normal for ALL zones to be bad or wired wrong??? ( because they are wired up exactly like before....I made notes before I sent it off).....

I did set the resister setting you spoke of already before....


HMMMM....this is getting frustrating

Joey

This is one of those things where if I was looking at it directly, I could probably spot what's going on. I would start by checking the zone loops to make sure that they are closed. Then, if all of the zones are closed, and correctly landed on their terminals on the control board, I would check my programming.

This is a case of some simple thing that your have missed, either at the hardware or programming level, and simply don't know that it's significant.

I have a volt meter... and know how to use it (basically)...can you explain to me exactly how to test the continuity on the zones???

So far, as of today, Ive thoroughly went through EVERY section on programming, checked and doublechecked all the connections on the panel, rewired all the zone wires, and have done everything I can think of to check this system....Still no "ready" light ever

I even bypassed each zone separately, to see if maybe that particular zone may be bad, wired bad, etc....(that would work as a simple troubleshoot, right?)......still nothing.....no 'ready' light during any of the separate bypasses

In normal running mode (pushing the # key), with all doors shut and motion detector area still....Im Still just getting zone lights 1-4 staying on, and trouble light on (this is the battery backup trouble light...the manual says that the system should still work even when that light is on)

The "ready" light would come on fine before, and opening/closing the doors, would light/unlight keypad accordingly before I had this panel box reset.....(all I needed was the code)....Is it possible that the 'reset' that I sent the panel off for could have damaged it?....im at a loss

Joey

I have a volt meter... and know how to use it (basically)...can you explain to me exactly how to test the continuity on the zones???

Most multimeters have a function in their resistance test function for continuity. It's the one that beeps when the test leads are shorted together. Disconnect one leg of the zone wiring that you are testing and put one meter lead on the loose wire end, and the other on the wire where it's joined to the wire.

If the loop has proper continuity (i.e. the contacts are good, and the wire is good) the meter will beep. Lather, rinse and repeat with the rest of your zones wiring.

To verify that your zone inputs are good, simply take a 5600ohm resistor (thats green blue red for the first three stripes) and attach one lead to the zone input, and the other to the common. If the zone remains open, then either the zone is somehow misprogrammed, or the panel is damaged. Just to be safe, also try this with a simple piece of wire. If you have the system set to not need resistors, it will close with a simple wire jumper.

So far, as of today, Ive thoroughly went through EVERY section on programming, checked and doublechecked all the connections on the panel, rewired all the zone wires, and have done everything I can think of to check this system....Still no "ready" light ever

I even bypassed each zone separately, to see if maybe that particular zone may be bad, wired bad, etc....(that would work as a simple troubleshoot, right?)......still nothing.....no 'ready' light during any of the separate bypasses

Have you simply tried bypassing all 4 open zones?

In normal running mode (pushing the # key), with all doors shut and motion detector area still....Im Still just getting zone lights 1-4 staying on, and trouble light on (this is the battery backup trouble light...the manual says that the system should still work even when that light is on)

The "ready" light would come on fine before, and opening/closing the doors, would light/unlight keypad accordingly before I had this panel box reset.....(all I needed was the code)....Is it possible that the 'reset' that I sent the panel off for could have damaged it?....im at a loss

Joey

Unless the people who did the reset for you were really ham handed I'm convinced that this is either a miswiring issue, or a programming issue.

OK......I did just do a 'bypass' on all 4 zones....and I did get the "ready" light this time!!!....(first time ever!!)...also the bypass, trouble and 1-4 lights stay on (I assume this is normal??)

What would that tell you? more likely a programming issue, or a wiring/continuity issue? Im leaning toward the latter....

Now I will test the wiring:::"Most multimeters have a function in their resistance test function for continuity. It's the one that beeps when the test leads are shorted together. Disconnect one leg of the zone wiring that you are testing and put one meter lead on the loose wire end, and the other on the wire where it's joined to the wire."


When you say "the other end on the wire where it's joined to the wire" has confused me.....the wire has a common(normally black)and the other ( normally red)...do I attach the meter to each end??? Am I just simply testing the wire coming into the panel box for each zone ....loose??? Attaching the black and the red to the black and the red on the meter???Im confused

Sorry, Im so green on all of this


Thanks

Are there resistors on the zone wires coming into this alarm's zone inputs: YES or NO?

If there is no resistor, you are simply putting the meter leads on the zone wiring at the panel end. All you are trying to find out is your zone wiring and/or contacts are closed (continuity). At least one end needs to be removed from the panel terminal strip, or you read the wiring on the panel circuitry. Polarity doesn't matter.

If there are no resistors on the loops, then the panel should have been programmed for NC loops.

If there is a resistor on the loop, you want to do the testing ahead of the resistor.

"Are there resistors on the zone wires coming into this alarm's zone inputs: YES or NO?"

The ONLY two resistors on this complete system are connected to the panel on zone terminals 5 and 6 only (the zones not being used)....the wiring for zones 1-4 are connected directly to the panel terminal inputs (one black wire to 'common', and one red wire to the terminal zone input)

So in this case would I would test with a meter, the continuity, by connecting one (the red/disconnected) wire to the hot lead, and touch the 'common' (connected) wire with the negative (black lead) to make sure they are closed?? with the door shut, correct?

So I should have section 12 , option 5 set to "off" for 'end of line resistor loops', correct?...(this is how it is currently programmed)...sound right?

joey

There's the answer I've been looking for.

Unless you see 5.6 k ohms on those loops, then the panel should have been programmed for NC loops, and the unused zones should have had simple wire jumpers on them.

And the answer ive been looking for!!!

I changed the programming to the "NC Loops"....now it is finally working!

Thank you for all of your help...sorry it took so long and I was so green about it

I really appreciate it!

Thanks again

Joey

Thanks for the reply, and all of your help....I will try the "zone programming" that you gave me....is there anything else that is essential in the programming to make it work , at least basically?....Should I start getting the 'zone' lights when doors are opened, the 'ready' light, etc after I program this part??

I do have the installer program guide downloaded, but it just seemed like alot of sections that were not going to be used, or not needed to be programmed or changed from the default....

Thanks

Joey
Hi,
Can you send me the link to download the installer program guide


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Good day,

I was looking for help with this unit and saw someone was looking for the manual - I found it here:

DSC ? Home Security Equipment - Protectron.com (http://www.protectron.com/customer-service/manuals/dsc.html)

I purchased a property which has this system and when I turn the breaker switch on the siren starts instantly so I turned it back off and left it alone for a year. I wouldn't mind getting it to work (locally) so that it chimes or something whenever someone comes in the door. Any guesses on the next step for this?

Thank you,
Paul