Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - I.D. a dull finish on pine aquarium stand?
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mako
06-04-06, 04:18 PM
I have a pine aquarium stand that's about 15 years old. The finish on it is, and always was, a fairly dull finish with nearly no build on it (I spray high-build catalyzed lacquers for a living and know that this isn't one of them). I'm very sure it's plain jane nitrocellulose lacquer over a stain.
<<<<EDIT--- I misnamed this thread, I'm sure what the finish is I just want to perk it up a bit>>>>>>>>>
I am selling it soon and want to clean/freshen up the finish but I'm not interested in re-spraying it. I want to swab something on it to freshen up the finish and I've heard a lot of folks tell me about "finish restorers" and such (Murphy's and Formby's stuff come to mind but what are they?).
In other words, I actually have to go to Lowes to buy finishing material (something I never do, I'm used to buying expensive industrial finishing materials).
What would be recommended?
Thanks,
Matt
<<<<EDIT--- I misnamed this thread, I'm sure what the finish is I just want to perk it up a bit>>>>>>>>>
I am selling it soon and want to clean/freshen up the finish but I'm not interested in re-spraying it. I want to swab something on it to freshen up the finish and I've heard a lot of folks tell me about "finish restorers" and such (Murphy's and Formby's stuff come to mind but what are they?).
In other words, I actually have to go to Lowes to buy finishing material (something I never do, I'm used to buying expensive industrial finishing materials).
What would be recommended?
Thanks,
Matt
George
06-06-06, 08:39 AM
Assuming the finish is in good shape (just dull) I'd clean with Murphy's oil soap and apply a good automotive paste wax.
mako
06-15-06, 06:53 PM
Why automotive and not something like Minwax finish wax?
BTW, I learned the HARD way not to use any automotive wax with Teflon in it to polish metal woodoworking tools. I used it several times on our Unisaw and jointer and it worked WONDERFULLY and the ply and melamine just slid right across with little effort.
Two weeks later I did it again, and forgot to come back and buff it. It RUSTED the surface of the table saw and band saw. I had to steel wool both of them with thinned paste wax (regular wood wax) to get them back to normal. Geeeez.... stuff went out of the shop and back to the "garage" (spare bedroom shelf).
BTW, I learned the HARD way not to use any automotive wax with Teflon in it to polish metal woodoworking tools. I used it several times on our Unisaw and jointer and it worked WONDERFULLY and the ply and melamine just slid right across with little effort.
Two weeks later I did it again, and forgot to come back and buff it. It RUSTED the surface of the table saw and band saw. I had to steel wool both of them with thinned paste wax (regular wood wax) to get them back to normal. Geeeez.... stuff went out of the shop and back to the "garage" (spare bedroom shelf).
chfite
06-15-06, 08:30 PM
If you are going to wax, use Johnson's paste wax.
mako
06-18-06, 08:03 PM
Funny you say that. I was shopping for groceries at WalMart today and there was a big ol "Mark Down" rack and one of the items was Johnson's Paste Wax. A buck! I started to buy all six of them (which was about what one of them cost before hand) but couldn't justify having that many cans of something that will take me three years to use ONE of, considering I'm moving 350 miles away in 4 months, lol.
So Johnson's Paste Wax it is!
So Johnson's Paste Wax it is!