Air Conditioning - Installing A/C with radiant floor heat....

Hi. I'm active in a few forums, and just found this one. Awesome!
I designed built my own house five years ago and installed a boiler with radiant floor heat. Now I want to install whole house A/C.

I've had a system designed using my blueprints, etc. I have a well insulated house outside of Buffalo NY, so we won't be using the A/C too much. I cut the proper holes in the bottom sills of the walls for A/C when I built the house.

I plan on running the proper ductwork and installing an air handler that has an A coil for cooling and another coil for supplement heat, using an extra zone that is unused off my boiler. This will be for days when you need some heat but not want to use the radiant floor system.

A friend of mine is a licensed A/C guy but only does R-22, not the newer R410a. He does not have the new guages, etc. I know there are many opinions on this, but I think I need to stick to the R-22 if I want him to do the hooking up, etc. I am saving thousands having him help me. I am buying all the components with him at his cost, so I want to get the best value and options for the money.

My question(s) are ......

1) Will I be sorry using the R-22? I plan on retiring in 10 years or so and moving south, so for me I'm hoping it will be fine.

2) I think I'll be buying a 13 seer Rheem RAND A-series, 3 ton. I know 13 seer is now the minimum, but with the short use, well insulated house, I think it will be the best for payback time.
Is this good? Will an R-22 give me that energy star tax break?
Is there another unit that would be better?

3) I'm told to buy a variable speed motor. Is this in the compressor or air handler, or both? The unit I mentioned above says it has a single speed motor in the condensing unit.
Should I consider a better one, factoring in the tight house and where I live, (minimal use).

4) I know I want a scroll compressor. Is the comfort alert diagonostics option worth it?

5)Do I really need or want a fancy $200 thermostat? They look cool, but are they worth it? I could also get a nice digital one for $35.

6) Some air handlers have both coils in them. the one my friend recommended has the a-coil in the unit and the heat coil outside the unit in the ductwork. Is one way better?

7)Any recommendations on the air handler? I believe I should stick with the same brand as the condensing unit. Is that wise?

In short, this is a good deal for me to be able to work with my friend. Since I am buying everything at his cost, is there any feature or option I should get? I do not want to miss out on buying something that I should have gotten. I only want to do this once, and I want to do this right.

I'm sorry for such a long post. Any opinions would be appreciated.

Respectfully, Frank D.

Stay with the R22 they can still make it up to 2030.
Check it out but from what I have you have to go with a seer of 15 or more to get that $300 credit from the IRS.

10 years in the home go for a V/S blower unit not a V/S compressor. And forget that $200 tstat.

ED my .02 cents:)

Thank you Ed.

Frank D.

Thank you Ed.

I think I read that they will make units with R-22 until 2010, and make the R-22 until 2020.
It's the price going up in a few years that is the scary thing. Hopefully I will not need a recharge down the road.
It's my only option anyway......

Frank D.

I see Rheem also makes Ruud.
Is Rheem better?
Are there better brands I should consider, or is Rheem a good unit?
Any thoughts on having the heating coil inside or outside the air handler?

Thanks, Frank D.

I would also use the heating coil (on the airhandler) as your main heat, it is more effecent. Pluse you can humidify the air as well.

Use the heating coil in the duck work. As for the T-Stat you do not need a $200.00 one.

Rheem makes a good unit and they all come with scroll compressors. They should be from the same make to get the seer rating.

AS for the duck work I would wrap it with scrim instead of getting it lined. If you go ith all hard duck (instead of flex)the system will also be a little more effecent.

When putting the system in think about air cleanners (now is the time to think about it)

Other then that it sounds like your on your way.

Is this good? Will an R-22 give me that energy star tax break?

Not the 13 seer , You need one that is seer 15 or better for the tax credit. Id sure go for a Trane or Lennox over a Rheem or Ruud.
R22 can and will be made till 2030.

ED;)

Thanks Guys!
I do want to also put in a air filtering system. I do not know too much about them, Used to be there was either the electric "bug zapper" type, and the big pleated filters, like an Air Bear.

What do they recommend now? I heard they also have some type of ultraviolet light thing that kills everything, but I think that may be beyond my needs or budget.

What is now recommended?

As to the tax credit, I'll look more into that. If I could upgrade for about the same price as the credit, i'll consider it. I just did not know weather the Gov't went only by seer or by what refridgerant was used. I hope the tax credits are also for the R-22 units.


Thanks,
Frank D.

Thanks Guys!
I do want to also put in a air filtering system. I do not know too much about them, Used to be there was either the electric "bug zapper" type, and the big pleated filters, like an Air Bear.

What do they recommend now? I heard they also have some type of ultraviolet light thing that kills everything, but I think that may be beyond my needs or budget.

What is now recommended?

As to the tax credit, I'll look more into that. If I could upgrade for about the same price as the credit, i'll consider it. I just did not know weather the Gov't went only by seer or by what refridgerant was used. I hope the tax credits are also for the R-22 units.


Thanks,
Frank D.

I always installed a "Spaceguard" filter.
When it is just about at the end of its life it is 98% effecent.

Here is a link to the unit. It also is available with UV.
http://space-gard.com/category.asp?id=0B10B06EA1EA4D14A4722CD120E8C7F6


AS for the unit I would stay away from Lennox (it is one of the best units) But to have it serviced they have to be a Lennox dealer. (my feeling is they have you then, and parts are expensive) This is just my feeling.

The R-22 is not a factor in these units.

I just did not know weather the Gov't went only by seer or by what refridgerant was used. I hope the tax credits are also for the R-22 units.

You have to put in a new AC with a seer of 15 or over.Then you can get a tax credit for $300 is all. Trane's new filter works real good . But the cost is high. Go for the AIR BEAR or stay with what comes in the unit. If so dont get a new filter for it over a MERV 5. Put a new one in every 30 days. There is a filter spray you can get to spray on the intake side of the new filters. It help.

ED;)

Its good that your friend uses R-22 The new R410a Is a PAIN IN THE REAR from what I read.Its a mix of 2 different coolents and if you have a leak its not as simple as fixing cleaning the system and just adding more, They have to repair the leak clean the system and DRAIN the OLD coolent and add ALL NEW coolent and the bill can be VERY BIG.

Its good that your friend uses R-22 The new R410a Is a PAIN IN THE REAR from what I read.Its a mix of 2 different coolents and if you have a leak its not as simple as fixing cleaning the system and just adding more, They have to repair the leak clean the system and DRAIN the OLD coolent and add ALL NEW coolent and the bill can be VERY BIG.


I retired for the industry before 410a came out, But when it first did I was talking to several large oil heating companies and they dident even want to carry it in their trucks. The reason being is that the pressures are higher. Inand ac system I understand the pressures are just about dubble. To give an example on a hot muggy day your pressurs on a 22 system maybe 250-75 on the 410 it would be close to 500-150.

If I am wrong let me know. As I have said I retired before this was fron was used.

You're right Rob........it is about 60% higher pressure.
I since R-22 is my only option anyway, my only risk is down the road needing it "topped off", and having the price be high down the road because of it not being used as much. my friend told me if I wanted to, he can buy another can of it to keep in storage, so if I ever did need more, I would have it, but he also said that on a well installed system, you should not need to add more down the road.
Is that right?
Should I buy an "extra"? If the price does go up, I would not be losing money on it down the road.

Thanks, Frank D.

You're right Rob........it is about 60% higher pressure.
I since R-22 is my only option anyway, my only risk is down the road needing it "topped off", and having the price be high down the road because of it not being used as much. my friend told me if I wanted to, he can buy another can of it to keep in storage, so if I ever did need more, I would have it, but he also said that on a well installed system, you should not need to add more down the road.
Is that right?
Should I buy an "extra"? If the price does go up, I would not be losing money on it down the road.

Thanks, Frank D.


You are not allowed to own r-22 it has to be bought with a licence. That said if your friend does not nind buying a can and holding it for you then you will be fine. They will not be phasing it out anytime soon.

As for the system needing a little. If you go with a high effecntcy system it has what is called a sight glass put on (this is on the high side by the condenser with the dryer) all you have to do is look at that and you will see if you are low on freon. (your friend can explain more)

By all rights your system should not need freon for a good few years (I do not like saying it but some do leak on factory joints) The main thing to do is keep the shrader caps on (they are where you put the gauges) that I have found is the most common place for leaks. If it does leak the pin can be changed without loosing the freon with the proper tools. The best thing you can do (ask your friend to show you and get some) is to keep those coils clean and keep the filter changed. If you go with the space Gurd then you would get a year out of it uesing it for heat and air.

As for the winter I always told my customers (as long as it is air only condenser) is to put a flat board and a brick on top to protect the fan blades. Do not cover the entire unit, you want it to breath and let the moisture out when it is idel. Then just before startup get the fron checked (by someone you can trust) Blow out the condensate, and have a cool summer.